pyropyro

Well, things have dried out in the cabin, humid weather is over for the time being. The tach has behaved perfectly ever since that one incident a few days ago, so maybe that was it. Wer the alternator of battery causing the irratic tach behavior, wouldn't there be other symptoms as well? (I'm not aware of any)

2003 Outback, 75,000 miles (really was a little old ladys car) Automatic trans. I've been driving it a year, typical problems, but runs great. Yesterday, about 1 mile into a 6 mile round trip into town and back, I noticed the tach needle flitting about, dropping to peg, then working properly for a few moments. Very eratic. I pulled over and put trans in park, revved it to 4,000 RPM for a few seconds, and then it worked fine for the rest of the trip. What might cause this? I wondered about conditions. It's been below zero at nights lately. I've tracked snow onto the floorboards, and gotten a lot condensation on the inside of the windows which frosts over night, then when the car warms up turns to water to mopped off the inside of the widows with a towell. Run the air condioner and heater on high with defrost. Shooting in the dark there, I doubt this really has anything to with the tach.

Oh, it leaks oil too. But not so much that I have add between oil changes. Not yet anyway. Excellent discussion guys, I can't thank you all enough for the insight/experience/opinions. And even those who exclaim "Don't drive it!!" I appreciated the enthusiam. I love these cars. I I have two EA 82 parts cars sitting behind the house, donars that kept my lifted 1985 wagon on the road for over 10 years. Sold it when I inherited this Outback. Kind of wish I still had it. I WILL get this Outback in top shape, I WILL!!

What a blunder for me to have not stated year and model. Oooops. 2003 Outback.

I just thought of a question. What about over filling the overflow tank, instead of just to the "full" line. Would give one in this situation a wider margin?

"find a good and cheap indy shop,--------(snip)" I know your not joking, but really? It's my thought that there is no such thing. I fear I'll have to try to do it myself. I'm no novice to "back yard' wrenching, I"m 60 and have always maintained my own vehicles, but I'm far from an expert. It's moot right now, has to wait untill the coin is saved up for parts. Need belt and front reseal too. What I wish I could get my head around, or get some sense of, is how fast these "seeps" can, or are likely too----turn into gushers. I don't even know if they do. Turn, that is. Mike03, your not the first person to have mentioned that many simply don't pay attention and thus overheat and kill the engine. I do pay attention, but I simply don't really have an idea of how fast an EJ 25 (2003) headgasket seep is likely to escalate into catastrophic failure. I'm getting the sense after years of study here at USMB that it tends to be a slow proscess. I hope so.

When I got the car a year ago, it was a seep. Both sides rear. It was driven from Albany OR to Bend, which lowered the level in over flow maybe 3/4 of an inch. I topped overflow off and every hundred or so miles had to add coolant to over flow. After a couple hundred miles, I drained system, replentished with Subaroo coolant and added one unit of conditioner. Slowed it down immediatly. After maybe a couple hundred miles, on advice from forum members, added one more unit of conditioner. The seeping stopped for several thousand miles. Now it is seepeing again. This car had never been overheated. (It's been in the family forever, I know it's history) I watch the temp guage like hawk, but don't know how fast these issues can escalate. It's still only seeping, and only on one side now. Thanks for the conversation guys. I kind of have no choice but to try to keep it on the road over the winter, but this upcoming trip really worries me. I'll carry plenty of water and coolant.

I don't know about "loose radiator cap". Have to think about that. I was just wondering about the Factory Coolant Conditioner. (stop leak) Bear in mind, I was NOT considering adding another unit of the stuff to the radiator as is. Rather, draining, refilling with new, and then adding the "conditioner". The question in my mind, might doing it that way avoid a "cumlative" effect. No more that the one, or possibly two if one didn't work, measures of the conditioner would be circulating thru the system. I may have take the car on a 300 mile round trip soon. I figure it would HAVE to be bad to add more to the system as is. There is already two units in it now. Another would make a total of three. That can't be ok. But to drain, then add one unit of the stuff? I don't know. I sure don't want to kill the radiator.

Inherited moms car at 75,000 miles right around 12 months ago. As is common, the HG seeped a bit. This was a year ago. I don't drive much. And am poor. I drained cooling system, Put in Soob coolant and one Soob "conditioner". Still leaked. Started thread here about it. Was advised adding ONE more Soob conditioner. I did, and it has not leaked for around 2000 miles. It's now leaking again. I can not do new gaskets at this time. What are odds that drainiing, installing new coolant and conditioner might get me another couple thousand miles leak free miles? (or ANY leak free miles, for that matter?) I'm saving my pennys for the HG job, but just not there yet. Maybe next spring.

Thank you Fairtax. Turned out plugs and wires I can get locally from my small parts house. Dropped by today and ordered, will be here wed. Gaskets, I'll ask about when I pick up wires and plugs. (Getting short on dough)

Do I need to make sure to purchase OEM plug wires and valve cover gasket kit? And If I may, I would like to trouble the hive for suggestions on favored online sources for these parts. Thank you kindly.

Have not had this car long. 75,000 miles on this the clock. Will run great for a while then starts running on two cyl. Let it sit overnight, runs good agiain for a while. I checked plugs, Not too bad but clearly too old and need replaced but have to wait till payday. (two weeks) Having codes pulled a local NAPPA) She has failed valve cover gaskets, the O rings for plugs leak, plug wire boots oily. Some valve cover bolts were not very tight, tightening didn't seem to help. Do we think likely culprit is oil shorting out plugs? I will throw new plugs and wires at her on payday, what are my odds of success?

In all my searching USMB and the google machine I had not seen mention of using two of the Subaru coolant "conditioner". (stop leak) My first impulse is to feel reluctant, since I HAVE seen more than a few debates regarding weather or not the stuff is bad for radiators, or is fine for them. After reading quite a few of those debates, I concluded that there was close to a consensus amongst the old hands that the conditioner was in all likelyhood not harmfull to radiators. So that was my first impulse. After sleeping on it, I still feel reluctant. Time to do some more reading, see if the google machine or USMB search will reveal debates and comments about doubling up on this stuff. Of course comments are always welcome by me, I did ask.

I want to thank all who have responded. You guys have taken a load off my mind. Especially it's nice to see some familiar, trusted names from quite a few years ago still here, guys whos advice and tech experience helped me build my 85 wagon into a lifted dayly driver that stood by me for close to a decade. Thanks again. I'll be around.

Thanks for reply. Ya, I changed the coolant the day I brought it home. Used Subaru coolant and added their "conditioner". What I took out looked exactly the same, darker forest green that your average coolant, just like the real thing. There was also obviously the "conditioner" already present. I am going to have gamble on the timing belts holding out thru this winter. I just can't do it now.