JOEK39

Just started getting the "squeak" from the rear wheels - the pads are shot - 41K miles. Front pads must have another 30-40K left in them. These are the original pads on my 2001 Forester. Unusual for the rears to wear first??, and so much faster than the fronts?? I've never seen that before. I assume there is a proportioning valve of some sort, front to rear, but not sure how that works, expecially in an ABS setup. Is it adjustable? All help and comments are appreciated. Thanks in adavance.

You're making progress . . . Sounds like it's opening(electrically), then closing again as the design is to slowly dim out when the deck hatch is closed. Not sure where to send you now. More of the same spray treatment maybe, or if you're adventurous, remove the latch to inspect - looks like a couple bolts and popping the plastic inner-door liner off. Good Luck!

The switch is integral to the latch, on the deck lid itself. I sprayed the heck out of the latch with WD40, opened and shut several times to work it in until the light worked correctly. Because WD40 washes out all the gunk and lubricant in the latch, its important to then wipe down any excess WD40 from everything and relubricate the latch with a white-lithium lubricant.

Had a similar issue with my 2001. Problem was a sticky switch that activates with the rear hatch closing and opening - there's a couple back there, one is for the tailgate open alarm light and the other is for the light control. I just sprayed it with some WD40 and worked it in well by hand. Good Luck

Rereading your oringinal post, your OBDII error code very possibly is indicating your catalytic converter is not operating as designed. The rear O2 sensor itself may be fine. Let us know, know I'm really curious!

You can actually drive without the rear O2 sensor, and IF EVERYTHING ELSE IS WORKING PROPERLY YOU WILL SEE LITTLE IF ANY DIFFERENCE. The FRONT O2 sensor is the primary instrument that the computer system uses to constantly adjust the fuel mixture of the engine. The REAR O2 sensor is used to monitor the performance of the engine, and is the primary monitor for the performance of the catalytic converter. If the front sensor, catalytic converter, or possibly other items were to become worn out or miscalibrated, but still operable (but perhaps short of failure), the rear O2 sensor would sense an incorrect fuel mixture and signal a failure code in the OBDII system. Again, you can drive it, but will be lacking amn important monitor of engine component miscalibration/failure. Personally, I would get it fixed soon, but I wouldn't lose any sleep over it - don't sweat it, and I would go for the lower $$ cost solutions if at all possible. Good Luck,

Filled tank on Saturday ($2.09/gal ) Last tank of gas averaged just under 25 mpg. Had Alot OF RAIN last couple days and more predicted for the week, so I pulled the fuse on Saturday and back in AWD mode for awhile - safety first! and we'll see what kind of mileage I get. Summary so far: AWD mode 20-23 mpg 2WD mode 25-28 mpg The experiment continues!! :cool:

Marshall's Subaru in Ravena, NY (10 miles south of Albany) Excellent dealership, low pressure, willing to deal. Good Luck.

The drivetrain is turning, so there is a slight hp (mpg) loss due to that, but since you are not DRIVING the rear drivetrain, there is a HP and milkeage savings.

In AWD mode, in snow conditions, I believe the AWD is working correctly, I can feel the power from the rear when needed, and I can tell I difference now in FWD mode in cornering. How else can I tell if it was working 100% in AWD mode ?

re: 22 mpg seems low for AWD mode - - dealer reported this as within the normal range when I inquired about 2 months after purchase. I've never gotten anything other than 20-23 mpg since the car was new. Its mostly urban driving with few stops 14 miles each way to work on 2-lane roads 40-50 mph. I do make highway trips to my daughter's college often, 150 miles rt. I removed the crossbars from my roofrack to reduce windnoise, I love my moonroof and have it open 80% of the time 8months per year. I do tend to keep excess "stuff" in the back, so it may be 50 pounds overweight, and I weigh about 230. The mileage has been the same on the original Geolanders (piece of crap tire) as well as the current Uniroyal AquaGrips, although neither tire I would consider a "mileage" tire. I keep them well inflated, and use a 5W30 weight oil. I do tend to drive with a heavy foot, 70-75 mph on the highway. I am now REAL curious what other's who have tried this get from a mileage standpoint. Again, I appreciate everyone's thoughts.

As I stated initially, the only reason I can see SOA not putting a switch on the dashboard, is because of their major marketing of FULL TIME all wheel drive. I've gone through a total of 4 tanks of gas now, continuing to average 28 mpg (vs 22 mpg before). At $2.10 per gallon, 12,000 miles per year, and 8 non-snow months, I will be saving approx $165/year in gas. I'm still not convinced its the smart thing, but I truly appreciate everyone contributing to this thread. For now, I'm sticking with 2WD mode. Thanks for the continuing dialogue.

FOUND THE LITLE SUCKER! Thanks for everyone's help, there was just one sight angle to spot it - and I did need to manuever between lots of cable bundles to get to it. Couldn't of done it without (all of) you. Thanks again, - Joe

I'm also thinking now that if the "normal" AWD position is 10% (on or off?) thats not much different than 2WD position which is 0% (on or off). Keep the replies coming - I appreciate everyone's thoughts.

OK. 2001 Forester with AT. Owners manual says there is a dipstick for the FRONT transfer case oil level, even shows a little picture showing the location and shape of the dipstick top - just off the firewall, on passenger side, looks to be indicting down low. I'll be darned if I can find it! I'm very good on cars, and this is driving me nuts. I can see the transfer case, and don't see any dipstick coming off it. There is an AT fluid dipstick on the other side of the engine compartment, and the rear transfer case oil level is the conventional 2-hole design. Don't see any holes on the front case. Any chance this is a typo in the owner's manual and its a sealed unit? Maybe a change from the 2000 to 2001 model year ? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks! - Joe

Hello: I've owned my 2001 Forester since new, no problems and get 21-23 mpg without fail. With gas getting expensive, i decided to experiment and put the tranny into FWD mode (fuse insertion). No detectable change in driving, but I have averaged 28 mpg over 2 tanks of gas - thats a 27% improvement! Owner's manual says not to do this, but i pride myself on trying to understand the "why" in things. Knowing what I do about the all-wheel-drive system, i don't see what damage will be caused. With the fuse in, the center transfer case is disengaged and no power is applied to the rear wheels. Now the rear half shafts and drive shaft will still rotate with the rear wheels, but so what? The only reason that I can think of for SOA to discourage this is their #1 marketing strategy of "FULL TIME All Wheel Drive". The ability to put a Subaru into FWD ruins the FULL TIME part of that. I would appreciate the expertise and guidance of the group. I realize I am trading off the safety benefits and handling improvements that AWD gives you, but for 6-7 months per year I can save some $$. Your informed thoughts are solicited. Regards, Joe