monk

I have an 02 OBW and would definitely recommend an 03 or newer, especially if you want a manual transmission. Unless, of course, the clutch on an 02 has already been replaced (if you happen to consider buying an 02 that is)

I seem to be having the same problem on my right front brake of my 02 OBW. The rotor feels like it heats up and warps after driving for about 10+ miles. OK, dumb question: What is HH?

I've been having a similar problem with my '02 OBW (56K mi)... it's a bit sluggish only in 3rd gear when cold. I don't know if it's slipping, but I get this very low frequency pulsated humming until the engine gets up to about 2500 rpm. It all seems to go away when the car is warm. any ideas??

Hey all. I've had this recent problem of a high-pitched humming coming from under the hood after I shut off my 02 obw. It tends to happen 1-2 seconds AFTER I turn off the key and lasts for about 2-3 seconds. It sounds like the hum is coming from somewhere near the right front wheel. I've also noticed it happening a little as I'm idling at a stop with the A/C on. Yesterday, it seemed as though it was giving out a little hum as the A/C compressor cycles off. Any ideas? I sure hope my compressor isn't going! I only have 40K mi on it.

I put one on my '02 OBW as well and I rather like it. It's designed well, and you don't have to drill any holes in the hood, which is a big plus.

I recently had the same problem with my clutch pedal. There is a TSB out on the problem, which describes the fix as replacing he slave cylinder. i had mine done under warranty, only because there was less than 36K on my car when it happened. The odd thing was, it started happening right after I had the clutch replaced due to the shudder problem. The clutch pedal would stick down only after driving in stop and go traffic for 30+ minutes. The clutch feels more normal now, with not so much travel in the pedal. The job should cost somewhere around $100 if you have to pay for it. here's the article from endwrench that describes the problem and fix (it's the same text as the TSB)

Apparently, they are replacing all of the '02 and earlier clutches with '03 clutches, which are supposedly "better".

Thanks, Nick... I checked my receipt and the part number matches the one in the endwrench article. The clutch feels more "normal" now- not such a huge amount of travel. I haven't had the judder since they replaced the clutch, so i guess I'll keep my fingers crossed.

rah! my first post... I, too, have a 2002 OBW that had the cold clutch judder problem that developed over a period of about 2 weeks around 34K mi. The first time I took it to the dealer and they basically blew me off by "reinstalling the onboard computer software." That's like the Microsoft tech help guy telling me to reinstall the Windows software... Anyway, the judder was even worse a week later, so i took it back and just told them i wanted them to replace the clutch as described in the TSB for the judder. They said, "okay." What I didn't tell them was that there was 35,500 mi on the car (which they eventually discovered). So, I got a new free clutch (yay). HOWEVER, about 700 mi after the new clutch was installed, the clutch pedal started sticking down after about 30-45 min of driving in stop and go traffic. SO, I took it back to the dealer and spoke to the service manager who said he wasn't going to take the time to drive it for 45 min and that he wasn't going to replace any parts since he couldn't reproduce the problem (WTF!?). About two hours after I yelled at him over the phone I got a call back saying they replaced the slave cylinder and it was ready to be picked up. i haven't been caught in traffic yet, so I'm not sure if the problem's fixed or not. So there is a TSB on the sticky clutch pedal?? Does anyone have the text? I am interested in seeing what SOA recommends for the fix. It seems every time i have the dealer work on it, i have to remind THEM that there's a TSB out on whatever problem i have! Now about these leaky head gaskets... I asked the dealer about the problem and he said it only affected the Phase I engines. It sounds like that's not really true. I guess i need to find a new dealer Moral of the story: If you're not sure whether you have the judder or not, just wait, it'll get much worse if you do.