Ryuko91

EA82 1.8L OHC with Hitachi carb and distributor Automatic transmission, single range 4wd

I got the right rotor this time. The disty stopped buzzing and my tach calmed down, but I'm going back over the pass and would like to find a distributor before I leave in a couple days. The cap is fine and dandy, but I'm replacing it anyway. Anyone in Kent/Covington have a distributor off an EA82 they want to sell?

Yeah, I'm pretty sure the disty's shot. Under further inspection, my rotor was broken. 4 dollars made it run a hell of a lot better, even with the advance hooked up. As of last night my tach started jumping, and sounds like there's a metallic buzzing coming from the distributor that corresponds with the tach jumps. Anyone have a distributor handy?

When I rev the motor up and hold it above idle, and hook the vac advance up it instantly misfires, but when I take the hose off it runs peachy again, so I don't think it's the fuel. Anyone else have that happen? I didn't find anything with a quick search. But I have already added a bottle of heet for good measure.

Hello everyone. I'm currently about 2000 miles into a little vacation with my 87 carbed wagon. I'm a little stumped, so I thought I might come to the people with a little wider knowledge base than mine. I'm in Kent, about 350 miles from my toolbox. :-\ After a camping trip, fully loaded up as high up as I could get on Mt. Rainier, I was having trouble. It was stumbling and lurching when I tried to maintain a constant speed, but would act fine while accelerating/decelerating. It didn't act weird until I got gas about 30 miles from the base of the mountain. It would idle decently at 700 I changed the fuel filter, put a bottle of carb cleaner in the next tank of gas and sprayed down the carb. It didn't seem to help much, so I popped the vacuum line off the vacuum advance and it stopped missing, and would run fine at any RPM. when I pulled the throttle cable with my finger over the vac line, it pulled more as the RPMs increased, and I didn't find any vac leaks. I've been driving around Kent/Covington without it hooked up. I noticed it had slightly less power(not like it has it anyway), and I lost a couple MPGs on the highway, but it was running fine, with no pings or misses. Now my current issue, after a couple hundred miles with no advance, it's starting to act up , missing randomly at a broad range of RPMs, regardless of throttle input. Is it possible that the advance is just clogged, and whatever was holding it up came loose while driving around? Or do they just have a tendency to bite the dust after 213K miles? I haven't had any problems with it during the previous 8k I put on the car since I got it. I'll try to clean it out in the morning and hook it back up to see what I get. A couple days ago I put the hose back on and it ran terribly again, but was fine instantly without it. Also, before leaving timing was set at 8 degrees BTDC at 700rpm, and it was fine for about 1500 miles. * could it be pickup wires under the cap? How'd I go about testing those without putting a new disty on the motor?

I had that problem out of no where after driving up Mt. Rainier a couple days ago. I noticed it after I bought some gas in the middle of no where, thinking that's what caused it. However, I after replacing the 1/2inch hose by the EGR valve, it ran fine again. It didn't sound like it was leaking, but it defiantly made a difference. Somehow those hoses don't hold up as well after 22 years.

Hello everyone, In about 10 days, I'm planning on driving across Washington, from right next door to Idaho to Seattle. I was wondering if there were some maintenance items I should look over before I get going, because I don't want to get stranded 330 miles from my truck and trailer. :-\ I recently replaced... Air filter Motor oil+filter Plugs+wires Disty cap+rotor Tires and I'll have the brakes replaced tomorrow, hopefully.

That sounds to me like the rings are gone on those pistons.

*edit* Wow I doubled posted. Triple posted. Something like that.

-->Here's an album with some pictures of the car.<-- **I would be very interested in buying a speedometer cable from someone Would one from a manual work? I know they're longer, but are the ends the same size and whatnot? My muffler is completely useless now, but I found one with the following specs. It's a dynomax turbo muffler. Is it worth the 60 bucks, or is there a better option out there? Inlet Diameter (in) 2.500 in. Inlet Location Offset Outlet Diameter (in) 2.500 in. Case Shape Oval No real luck with the BFH technique, so I pulled off the bumper and it doesn't look like anything's bent on the car, so I'm just going to get a "new" one. So much dirt came out of that thing, it was astounding. I was expecting more rust back there, but it's just some surface rust.

It idles really well when it's raining, or after it's rained. Or even when it's just about 50ºF outside. When it gets about 70º, it seems to jump up there. The engine temp stays right where it needs to be though, so I don't know that it's the thermometer. It idles slightly rough usually, but I ordered new plugs+wires , cap and rotor and a new coil. Does anyone have an extra spedo cable for a 3AT? The car I'm getting parts off of around here was a 5 speed, but it got crushed. :-\

I'll probably do an EJ swap in the near future. I'd love to do a 2" lift as well. I need to keep an eye out for a 5 speed D/R. However, currently, I'm still having problems with the idle. It idles great at start up and it chokes normally when cold, and after it warms up the idle shoots up to about 2000 rpms. I look the air cleaner off and the choke didn't look like it was on, or partially on. What's up with that? The bumper is just going to need the BFH tactic, it's pretty bent.

Here it is, powered by a tire. According to Wikipedia the horsepower gains wouldn't be much swapping to SPFI Horsepower: Carb - 84 bhp (63 kW; 85 PS) @ 5200 RPM SPFI - 90 bhp (67 kW; 91 PS) @ 5600 RPM I think replacing the fan on the water pump with an electric fan would give me close to the same horsepower boost. I'd like the MPFI, but I'd rather go through the EJ swap. I like how fast my legacy was, and my wagon weighs a lot less than the legacy. My main problem is when traveling on the interstates, it's screaming at 4k rpms, which makes me want the 5 speed. Plus I like to go offroading, so the lower gears would be a big plus. As for the bumper, I looked in the little storage compartments, and I didn't see any bolt heads or anything, but it is pretty dirt caked in there... Yeah, I have no idea when the timing belts were changed last. I need to pull the covers off and see how horrible they look. I tried to contact the guy who had it before me, but he wanders allover the place, and is impossible to get a hold of. It took me a month to get the title. Someone suggested just buying a completed car, but I want to get the experience in. I've been building computers for years, and I've done a lot of work on my parents brat. That said, if anyone has a computer question, they can PM me.

I'm fairly new to the automotive world, and to this fourm, so... Hello! I wanted to discuss a few problems, so it might be a big post... I got myself an 87 GL wagon in November with 202K on the odometer, and it ran pretty awesome. It started like a dream at -20ºF It now has 210,815(and is stuck there because the speedometer cable died 2 days ago) It's running a little rough, but I suspect the ignition system is just worn out. However, now that it's a bit warmer, it's been idling weird. The choke functions normally at start up, but after a little driving the idle hops up to 2K That's denting my miles per gallon just a little bit. The carb was replaced right before I got the car, I replaced the air filter yesterday, and it seemed to just idle a little higher. I haven't tried adjusting the idle screw because it idles normally when it's just getting warm, and I don't want to make it worse. Also, the 3AT is kinda starting to suck. I'd really like to do a 5 speed D/R swap if I can find a decent transmission to use. Also, how troublesome/costly is the EJ swap? I don't have a lot of cash on hand, but I may have a slightly wrecked, but still strong running 1996 Legacy L sedan available, provided it doesn't get traded for bodywork and paint job on my mum's brat. A while after I got it, someone was kind enough to slam in to my car when I was pulling through an intersection. I was going about 3 mph, and someone hit me at about 25. It popped into neutral, and a couple veins in my forehead. Luckily it was just a Datsun B210, so the damage wasn't too extreme However, the tail of my car is a little saggy now I tried jacking it up by the bumper and jumping on the car didn't budge it. How much work is that going to be? *edit* Yes, that's a different hatch, but it's not from the Datsun. When loading very large old servers into my car, it experienced some strut failure and the corner of the computer went though the window. So the best solution was a hatch from the junkyard! It almost matches, I think it's off an 88.