travis1990
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Posts posted by travis1990
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My Rockers are Roller/Hydro.
I'd like to put this ej18/22 head debate to an end. Are they the same or are they not the same? I mentioned the valve and port sizes on my heads. Does anybody have any ej22 dual port heads to measure? I do know that the single port heads have bigger valves, right? Maybe that's causing the confusion.
Also, I need a source for the oem o-rings that go in between the block halves. I'm going to call my local dealer tomorrow, but is there a place online to get them without buying a whole gasket set.
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the 1.8 heads are small valves whould use the 2.2 heads the washer whould be pickapart item mind you i have dozens of those heads i'm triping over dayly clevite berrings are top notch no problems ive seen sent out dozens of motors with clevite berrings make shure you only use subaru seals and orings on bottom end very important to get a good sealing
Would you be willing to part with a couple of those washers?
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dumb question showing my ignorance.
i thought ej18s and ej22s used the same heads?
I've heard some say they don't and some say they do. But, it wouldn't make sense for subaru to have two different castings to manufacture.
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The intake valves on the heads i have are 31mm, the exhaust valves are 28mm. These are dual exhaust port heads and each port measures 1 3/8. What do the ej22 heads measure? I did a gasket match to improve the flow a little, but with delta torque cams this won't be a high rpm motor.
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Alright, so I'm jumping on the frankenmotor band wagon. I was given a free 2.5 block and since I've always wanted to rebuild a motor I'm going to rebuild the shortblock and my ej18 heads that I'll be using. I've heard some horror stories about ACL bearings and I'm now weary about using them. I found some clevite bearings on rockauto.com for $31. Seems a little cheap, are they any good?
And on my heads the rocker assembly seems to be missing one of the spring wave washers. I can't for the life of me find a replacement. Where can i find some? Or could I put a regular washer there as a shim?
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Ok, here's a little update. The plugs I were looking for were the ones that go into the ECU. I got my multimeter out with the intent of checking the resistance of the wires going from the ECU to the mass airflow sensor to make sure it was within factory spec (less than 10ohms). Turns out I couldn't get continuity on one of the wires going from the ECU to the mass airflow sensor. Do you think I should run a new wire up to the mass airflow sensor from the ECU?
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So, where are connectors E25,E30, and E31 located? I need to know so I can do the diagnostic procedure outlined in the factory service manual.
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My alldata manual shows plugs called E25,E30, and E31, but the FSM dosen't show those plugs. Where are they?
Also, where is the CTS? It's supposed to be E5 on the last picture, but I couldn't find it on the car.
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Ok, so here's the codes I got.
21-Water Temperature Sensor.
23-Airflow Sensor.
31-Throttle Sensor.
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Ok, I was planning on getting the codes on my day off tomorrow anyway. I'll let you guys know what I find.
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I forgot to mention something. The engine will only rev to about 4000 RPM then it's like it's hitting the rev limiter. And I got broke down on the side of the road, please help.
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So, I've recently acquired a 1995 Impreza Outback EJ18. I'll spare you guys the complex background story. Basically we got the car with the title but no key. So we took the lock cylinder out and have been starting it with a screw driver. Are the lock cylinders different between the 1.8,2.0, and 2.2 (probably not but, just to make sure.) How much would it cost to make a key for the doors if i don't have a key to make a copy from?
Now for the interesting part. When we got the car it would start and run for 3-4 seconds then shut off. The previous owners had replaced just about all of the sensors under the hood to solve the problem. We tried taking the ignitor off another car and it fired up and stayed running. We put the old one back on it and it stayed running then too:confused: In fact I drove it back to my house(a 2 hour drive) no problems. What would cause that?
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Ok, here's a little update on my problem. When I finally got some time to work on it, I pulled out each fuse individually and checked them. Two of them were blew so I replaced them, turned the ignition on and I heard them (the same two) blow again. At this point I studied my wiring diagram and looked for those fuses. I noticed the plugs for the automatic transmission (which I recently replaced with a 5 speed D/R:)) were a part of those circuits. So, I popped the hood and went to inspect those plugs. Turns out one of them was broke leaving the connections inside exposed. It was grounding out on the engine. That's why it kept blowing fuses. :cool:
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Check the fusible links.
I just checked them and they're fine.
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**Update**
I switched out the circuit breaker under the passenger seat. Still not working.
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I did something stupid a couple of days ago. The short story is I accidentally touched a wire to the alternator and there were sparks. Well, now my windows are stuck up (it's very hot this time of year) and my turning signals don't work. My emergency flashers DO work, though. After doing research on the forums here I pulled out each fuse individually. Two of them were blown so I replaced them to no avail. Then I switched the power window relay under the front passenger seat out from my parts car. And the problem still persists. Is there something I'm missing? My car is an 86 GL wagon, btw.
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Here's a little update on my problem.
The white smoke disappeared for a few days then came back. But, this time I have made an important scientific observation. The white smoke comes out only while driving downhill. It has been drinking a little coolant but it seems if it were a blown HG or cracked head or intake manifold it would smoke all the time. As far as the missing coolant that might be the radiator leak that I thought I fixed. I've been getting ready for exams and working a lot the past couple weeks so I haven't got a chance to check any thing.
If I pull my plugs to check for discoloration would coolant/ATF/oil each have separate distinct colors? How else could I pinpoint exactly what it is?
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No, the Auto is 3.7 and the manual is 3.9.
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White smoke is coolant, so you gotta figure out from where. There are water jackets near intake runners under the carb, and where the intake meets the engine. These areas can leak coolant into the air stream, which is burned off. It could also be a head gasket that slowly going out. Worst case, its a crack in one of the heads.
Could white smoke also be AT fluid?
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Vehicle: 1986 GL, wagon, automatic, hitatchi carburetor.
I got up this morning to go to school and it seemed like a regular day. My car started and ran fine. I went to fill up with gas at a station about a mile or so from my house. When I came out and started my car it ran VERY rough and had white smoke pouring out the tailpipe. I drove it to town a couple more miles and it didn't get any better. I pulled over beside the road and checked my spark plug wires to see if they were loose and that didn't help the running rough at all. So I started heading to school telling myself if it didn't get any better I would just turn around and go home. By the time I got to school (20-25 miles) it was running great with no smoke at all. When school was out I came out and started it up and again it ran fine. When I got back to town I stopped and got something to eat and when I came out after 20-30 minutes the smoke and rough idle were back. I drove home and again by the time I got there it was running fine.
The pattern I'm seeing is it's running rough and smoking only when cold. I've also noticed the running rough and smoke usually come and go together, so I think they might be related problems.
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I've been using pure gas in my 86' GL the last couple of days and I too have noticed better mileage. And I checked that site and found a pure gas station less than 10 miles from me:banana:
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hi, you might want to check if the actual cables themselves move freely in their casings, i have had a lot of bad e-brake cables over the years.
good idea to put new calipers on , those mechenism are weird anyway. you are aware the caliper pistons have to screw in to collapse, not just squeeze in ? probably won't need to deal with that till next time for pads but you have to turn them to compress back into their bore.
Yeah, the cable moves fine. That was the first thought I had.
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Ok, so new calipers. What about in the mean time, should I avoid using the E-brake.
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Vehicle: 1986 GL wagon
So I was driving today and I noticed the smell of brakes. I pulled over at a gas station and saw smoke coming out of my front passenger tire. Long story short when I got it home I jacked the front end up and tried to turn that tire. When I did I felt some resistance so I pulled the tire off to inspect everything. What I found was that the parking brake lever on the caliper was sticking. Upon further inspection I noticed why it was sticking. The rubber boot around the lever on the caliper has ruptured and most of the grease came out. Here's my questions:
1. Would it be OK to leave the parking brake cable off that side so that I can still use my parking brake without it sticking? Should I just park carefully so that I don't have to use my parking brake?
2. Is that little rubber boot replaceable? Or do I have to replace the whole caliper?
2.5 Acceleration Issue
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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This might be a little off topic, but have you considered the frankenmotor? It's more powerful, just as reliable, and the sohc heads weigh less. I'm an aviation nut so i think of these things.