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howpow

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Posts posted by howpow

  1. Hi Kostamojen. Some years ago I fitted EA63 GSR Heads to an EA71 crankcase. The water galleries didn't line up and the heads had to be modified to suit the 1600 head gaskets. Everything looked and worked fine for years, but recently I decided to rebuild the engine and when I looked at the old head gasket I was amazed to see that at one place there was only about 1.5mm on the headgasket sealing ring between the water gallery and the cylinder (it's a miracle it held but somehow it did). Long story I know, but are you sure that one of the water galleries in the head isn't too close to the cylinder as can easily happen when heads from one model are fitted to the crankcase of another model. I have since rebuilt the engine but had the offending galleries welded and reshaped away from the cylinders.

    Just a thought. Good luck, I have followed this thread from very early on and your doing an amazing job.

  2. Hi. I have also successfully put 1400 GSR heads on an EA71. The studs and pattern were fine, the only problem I came across was some of the water gallery outlets in the heads. I had the heads welded and the outlets angled further outwards from the cylinder liners and had no problems. I also had a bead of weld added around the edge of the heads to better fit the crankcase. A light skim to level everything, and that's it. Just remember to re-torque the heads after about 15 minutes running.

    Another problem is the compression ratio. My compression tester showed approx 195psi per cylinder which is a bit on the high side. I am in the process of doing a full rebuild after about 12 years and have skimmed 1/16th off the pistons, which the engineers tell me should be fine :eek:, to lower the compression a little. I'll let you know how I go.

  3. Hi GeneralDisorder. My main problem is the diff ratio. It's a bit of an odball gearbox which came from Japan on a EA71 with twin carby's. It's OK around town but on a trip 4000 rpm in 5th equates to about 60mph which makes it a bit of a buzzbox. The original box which died had much longer legs and had simlar gearing to my XT Turbo. I have just rebuilt the EA71 which is in a 1976 GF Hardtop and was hoping to get back to a standard ratio.

    Any other suggestions.

    Thanks

  4. Hi GTlegs. Yes I am in Cheltenham and thanks for the offer. I'm 68 and have a best mate who I have known for 60 years. We are both retired so we alternate every Monday. One Monday we work on his cars and next Monday on mine, so I'm OK for help, but if we need someone fit, young & flexible I'll let you know. I'll have a word to Duggans and see what they can suggest.

    Grossgary, I'd like to stick with the EA71 because it's a bit special. It has ported and modified EA63 GSR heads and camshaft, hand fabricated SS extractor system and twin choke downdraft Weber.

    I think the heads are part of the problem as even thought the combustion chambers were opened up a bit my compression guage was showing about 195 psi per cylinder which I think put a bit too much strain on the main bearings. I've had VW Beetles in the past and they were known for ending up with oval main bearing supports if the engines were lugged at low revs, this sounds just the same, very heavy knocking until the oil circulates. With the VW's and Porsches you can get thicker main bearing shells and have the crankcase halves machined to suit. This would be my best option I just have to find out if they are available or not. Failing that I might have to go the skim the crankcase face route with all it's complexities.

  5. Hi folks, My EA71 crankcase Main Bearings supports are now out of round, and the engine knocks really badly until the oil circulates. I Have another engine which has the same problem. I have heard that you can shave the mating surfaces of the crankcase and then have it linebored, or apparently some cars such as VW's and Porsches have external oversize main bearings shells available which still requires a linebore but eliminates any other problems.

    What have the experts here done in this situation. :-\

    Thanks

  6. Hi kiwi subbie. I assume from what you say that the threads in the brass distribution block survived ok. I have loosened the nuts but they lock up again after about half a turn and I have used a fair bit of force. I was worried that if I forced them out that the internal threads in the brass block might be damaged and then the block would be stuffed. Then I would have big problems, worst case scenario being find another block in good condition or have one made and replace one or all of the pipes to the wheels depending on whether I can remove them intact from the old block. I had to cut them out of the master cylinder.

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