brykel

Ah ha! I'm fairly certain now that my compressor is binding, causing the sensor to shut it down...when i jump that trinary switch, the compressor comes on, runs for 20 sec or so and shuts down...when i hook the compressor directly to the batt, i can see that the belt is having a hard time keeping it up to speed, even though the belt is good and tight. I have about a can and a half of 134 in the system now. Guess i'm off to the junkyard to buy a used compressor. Is there any way to test a compressor on or off the car?

OK, i found an electrical connector with four wires that is connected to the line that goes between the condensor and rec/dryer. Could this be the switch i need to replace? Judging from the color of the wires going into it, it appears that it is called a trinary switch, according to the Haynes schematic. One wire goes to the a/c switch, another to the rad fan relay, another to the rad fan motor, and the last one to the a/c amplifier. If this is the correct switch to test/replace, how do i remove it? Do i have to discharge the system? It is screwed into the line.

I think the Loyale is different...the older Subies had an electrical connector right on the rec/dryer which is down by the pass side headlight...this one doesn't...the only components up by the pass side strut tower are the a/c relay, main fan control relay and a/c fuse...any ideas where the safety switch might be in a Loyale? Btw, i connected the compressor directly to the batt with the a/c on and everything works great and i am able to finally put more 134 in.

I seem to be having trouble locating the metering device and the associated wiring. In this car (93 Loyale), there is a pulsar system located on the compressor which shuts it down if the clutch isn't rotating as fast as the compressor. Could these be the wires i need to jump? The only other components mentioned in the schematic are the relay, which i did check, the fuse (OK), a/c switch, thermo switch, a/c amplifier, pulse coil, blower swithes and fan relays. Does this car even have a metering device? I don't have a high side guage, unfortunately.

Thanks for all the great info everybody...just to let you know, i dumped the old oil out of the compressor and put in the same amount of fresh PAG oil, just like the Haynes manual says to do...i'm pretty sure it was the high side input but it was definitely the same hole the old oil came out of... Sounds like it may be possible that the high head safety switch is bad...does anyone know how to replace or test this?

Thanks for good info Eric...i have a guage...the compressor kicked on a few seconds after i started charging, maybe around 5 psi...so i let it run for maybe five minutes to stabilize...as i added more 134 and the pressure got up to about 20 psi the compressor shut off and insatantly the pressure went up to like 60 or 70 psi...this with only about half a can! I didn't use the 134 with the sealer/oil because i poured some PAG directly into the compressor and rec/dryer and also replaced all the o-rings in the system and there are no leaks...the system holds a vacuum nicely... I'll try running a wire from the batt and see if it will charge...

After charging w/ about a half a can of R134a, the a/c compressor stops running in my 93 Loyale...i've replaced all o-rings, rec/dryer, blew out all lines and evaporator, and replaced oil in the compressor with PAG...i had a vaccuum pulled and it holds at 30"...why can't i charge this thing?

Has anyone here ever replaced this seal?

I've replaced all the other o-rings in the system, the receiver/dryer, blew out the lines, cleaned out the evaporator...but for the front compressor seal, do i need a puller to remove the pulley? How do i replace this seal? I have an a/c o-ring set from Autozone. Largest one is 17.8 mm. Not sure if one of them will be the right size but they worked for all the other ones in the system...does anyone know the approx diameter of the seal? It's a 93 Loyale, round Hitachi compressor. Thanks

Ok, i'll do that. Should i install the compressor and new rec/drier before having the lines evacuated? I don't think i have a leak. Couldn't see any dye coming out from anywhere.

Thanks for the help. Guess i'll have to do an evac, change the Rec/Drier, remove and clean the evaporator, dump the compressor oil and pull a vacuum to see if i have to replace the compressor. Will enough of the old oil come out to use PAG?

Do you know where the low press switch is and how to jump it? The Haynes manual only talked about jumping the A/C relay behind the right strut tower. Btw, i tested the relay and it clicked.

System has been empty for quite a while and i'm using the Wal-Mart kit which conists of a hose with a gauge and R134. What do you mean do it properly? Should i not use a hose and guage setup? I know i should've replaced the receiver/dryer but was hoping i may not need to since the system's never been opened. I'm reading the pressure on the low side. Any other ideas w/o taking it somewhere and spending big bucks?

Hi all, first time posting here. I've done a search but couldn't find what I needed. I'm wondering if i need a new compressor or rebuild on my '93 Loyale. Did the R134 conversion but when i'm charging the A/C system and the pressure gets to about 20 psi, the compressor kicks on and the pressure drops to about 5 psi and there's no cold air. If i try to add more freon the compressor kicks off around 15 psi and then the pressure instantly jumps to and holds at about 40 psi. Is my compressor shot? The dealer says they haven't sold a rebuild kit in years and Autozone/Pep Boys doesn't carry them.