tricked919

91Loyale had advised me on removing the outer TC/flexplate bolts, then pushing in the TC into the tranny to look for plate movement. Do you know if I can start the engine with them disconnected - with intentions of seeing if the sound goes away or worsens? I am getting paranoid about this and would LOVE to determine that I indeed without any doubt have a broken or loose FP before I yank my motor out. (I was going to do this last weekend, but couldn't get a FP in time - omen?)

Backpressure transducer it's the little guy in the square

My (new) 97 OB has a working EGR (I think) and a bad BPT. The BPT was bypassed and the EGR seems to still be working - no CEL as long as I've owned it (1,000 miles). I bought a new BPT just to make things right. I hooked up the new BPT (yes, properly) and 10 minutes in, it threw a CEL (not sure of the code, but I'm certain it was EGR). I put the old BPT on and bypassed it again - CEL went away. This left me totally confused because based on what I see, the BPT is not needed - but I KNOW that's not the case. My next hunch is the solenoid under the EGR that switches the BPT on/off. How do I check if that's bad. What is that part called? I swear I am mechanically savvy, but I've never had a car with this much vac. controlled stuff. I hate vacuums

this was my original logic - we're on the same page. I'm pulling the motor next week to replace the flexplate - planning on doing the rack at the same time. Thanks for the confirmation :thumbsup:

WOW!! Thanks for the responses! Yeah, I was determined to replace the rack anyway because the inners are starting to go on this one. A new reman rack at autozone is $230. The leak is coming from the upper o-ring where the steer shaft goes into the box. I figure new inners and a non-leaky rack is worth it - no? Here's another thought. I have this "engine pull" thread going now too because of my flexplate. If I do the rack at the same time, is it easier to get to my flexplate by dropping the tranny rather than pulling the motor? The rack has to come out for that - right?

I went to see a Subie specialist about an engine noise and while I was there, he noticed my rack leaking (dripping on my downpipe and burning). I acknowledged that I'd be replacing it soon (its not that bad at all). He said he could fix it for $6.00 - or I could do it myself. Of course my ears perked up. He suggested I add brake fluid next time I need to fill my PS reservoir. I acted surprised and receptive, but deep down, thought the guy was INSANE. He says the [caustic] brake fluid will soften the seals and swell them up - hence stopping the leak. He claims he had a Legacy that went from leaking 1qt a week, to not leaking a drop ...and he's seen this add 5yrs to the life of the rack. Keep in mind - I live in the heart of Appalachia. My wallet says "yes" - my brain says "no" ...thoughts?

If anyone happen to read my first couple posts on my '97 Outback ticking noise (piston slap, bottom end noise, lifter tap, flexplate, etc...) I took it to a Subie shop today and the seasoned vet listed all over and confirmed my hunch that the noise was totally amplified at the inspection window in the bell housing ...meaning probably flexplate. (at least praying that's what it is) So I'm pulling the motor this weekend. I've never pulled a Subaru motor before. Are there any online write-ups I can reference?

I've never seen the inside of a Subaru starter, but I assume they all work the same. I 2nd the "contacts" After all the starts that thing has done, the plunger has probably beaten the copper contacts so bad that it doesn't create a circuit every time you turn the key. New ones are a cheap and easy fix you can probably do on your kitchen table in a few minutes.

If you were right I'd be thrilled. How do I diagnose the tensioner? There's not a drop of anything leaking. That's just the 1st thing I thought of when you said "blew the seal out" As for the rod knock - if I had to say, it does get more noticeable once the motor is warm. However, even when its warm it only "knocks" above 2500rpm but then is super smooth at idle.

Thanks guys ...can I turn the job in a day or less?

Please don't take this question as a sign of mechanical incompetency. I've been turning wrenches all my life - just never dove into a Subaru. I'm going to take a stab at checking out my flexplate. I can't see much through the window below the TB, but with all the symptoms I'm noticing, I'm trying to be really optimistic that the knocking that I'm hearing is that ...and not internals. SO... I can't tell by the looks of the layout if its easier for me to pull the motor from the car or drop the tranny. The car could use a new steering rack too, so I'm inclined to go that way and do it at the same time. If you guys say that yanking the motor is WAY easier, I'll do that. Also, what kind of time am I looking at for the job with 2 guys? If I can get it out and back in the car on a Saturday, you'll make me very happy. The car is an NA 97 OBW (EJ25).

I'm going to play the devil on this one... The 97 that I bought last month had a new condenser put in it and lots of O-rings. It was blowing cold air when I bought it. About a week later it quit. I called the guy who sold it (also a subie mechanic) and he said it checked out fine. I posted a thread on here looking for common AC culprits and someone suggested potentially leaky schrader valves. Sure 'nuff I pulled the cap and the high side valve had tiny little bubbles forming inside the bottom of the valve. I happen to have a schrader tool and I was able to tighten the valve by 1/4 turn. I bought one of those guage-in kits for $30 at Napa and charged it to 45psi. Its been blowing ice cold since. I just hooked it up 2-days ago (at the same outside temp it was when I filled it) and it was still holding about 45psi. Granted, I'm a idiot when it comes to AC and I know that isn't the typical fortune for AC issues, but that kit was the perfect fix for what I needed. So unless I missed something - I wouldn't say those are a waste.

yeah, its easy being more familiar with inline motors to forget how short this motor really is. The sound seams to definitely be favoring the back of the case. Considering that the flexplate on this car is where the #2 cylinder is on inline RWD cars, its very feasible (and I'm praying) that it's the culprit. I just went home at lunch to check it out. The car has been sitting all day. It fired up and sounded awesome at idle. I even ran it up to 3500rpm and other than being loud, there was no knocking. It's about 90 degrees here today. I still can't help but think (as much as it sounds like it) that a serious internal issue would a.) be heard at any rpm - and b.) be MORE noticeable when its cold.

I've been crushing the searches and I'm learning about flexplates. What I'm finding seems really similar. I just can't think of what other things would have the motor sounding good at idle then getting ugly at higher rpms. Dumb question . there's no way to check a flexplate w/o pulling the motor is there?

yes - oil level is perfect. Not an ounce burned in the past 800+ miles. Still clean. Not sure what's in it. Its still on the first round of oil from the HG replacement and tune up. I'm just torn over whether this is worth fixing or dumping while its still running somewhat decent. Regardless, if the sound is harmless or catastrophic, its not going to be an easy fix - its internal - I know it. The car is in AWESOME condition. Body and interior is as good as it gets and everything works perfect - and despite the chatter, you can eat off the motor. Everything we were warned about on the 97's was addressed too. Short of needing a new rack soon, I don't see any potential problems. We have $3000 in the car. If another $2000 for a motor will get me a ride that I can trust road tripping across the country, I might do it. But the last thing I want is to buy a used short block or assembled motor that comes with drama and be buried in a piece of crap that just looks nice.

Yes, it does have valve shims. The guy who put it back together and sold it to me showed me his shim chart. All of them spec'd within acceptable limits. I don't notice any wrapping as its coming down off the revs. Its just while the motor is at higher rpms. As soon as it dips below 2K, it shuts up significantly Sorry, WNC is western north carolina. I'm a little west of Asheville.

this morning I did a true cold start and the piston slap happened the instant the motor cranked and was gone is less than a second. That sound is nothing like the high rpm noise I'm hearing. It idles like a sewing machine for as long as I let it idle. When I reved it up, as soon as it appproached the 2500-3000rpm range, the obnoxious noise came back. I was afraid to take it up to 4-5K. I let it return to idle and smooth again. Somebody please tell me this is a timing problem or loud valve chatter that's developed from the heads not being put back together properly from the HG replacement (FYI, that was about 800 miles ago). Oh, and I disco'd the battery last night, left the old (bad) BPT in and no CEL came on during this. I could care less about the BPT issue now if that's not relevant.

I'm so frustrated. I picked up a 97 OBW last month that had new HG's, seals, radiator, T-belt, tensioner, and AC condenser. It had a bad BPT solenoid that was bypassed and it ran fine (no CEL). My wife has been driving the car and said she's been noticing the cold start immediate piston slap but the car drives like a dream. I ordered a new BPT for it just to make it right. I put it on tonight and a 10 minute drive later, the CEL came on (go figure). We also noticed a sound at revs over 2500rpm that sound like lifter tapping. The engine was totally warmed up. Cruising at 2500rpm and lower, it drives and sounds like a brand new car. We got home, I popped the hood and I let it idle (still with CEL on). At idle, it sounds pretty good. As soon as I rev it up manually from the throttle body, the slap/knock sound becomes VERY noticeable. I've heard bad bottom ends and its not quite "knocky" It sound like a lawnmower. At 3000rpm+ it gets louder. Drop it back to idle and it's barely noticeable. I put the old BPT back in (bypassed) and its still doing it - clearly coincidence. Should I be worried? I'm freking out because everyhting I know about slap doesn't jive with a motor that is warmed up. Aside from the new gaskets, belts and seals - its still an EJ25 with 149K. This SUCKS!! Suggestions please ...Thanks guys

It looks like the high side service valve is indeed the culprit. I took the cap off and I could see very tiny bubbles slowly (very lowly) forming at the base of the valve. Is the valve itself replaceable or do I need the line from the compressor to condenser replaced? I've replaced valve inners before on common schrader valves, but this does not look to be threaded that deep - maybe it is? I took some narrow needle-nose's and tried turning the bar to "tighten" the valve but I don't think it moved. There is still definitely 134 in the system - but apparently not enough. Thoughts?

Just bought a 97 OB that had cold air when I got it (3 weeks ago), but doesn't now. It has a new condenser and some o-rings. It wasn't ice-cold when I got it and the seller and I checked the lines - if anything we thought it was overcharged. Compressor seems to be cycling fine. I am not an AC guy at all. If it was cold, but isn't now - common sense tells me its a leak. My question is... are there any common AC issues on this that I can check on my own w/o having to pay an AC guy to look at? Do the symptoms raise any flags?

dumb question, but have to ask... is the voltage regulator built into the alternator on these units or is it external?

I'm a newbie to Subaru's but I can chime in on this. I was a GSM for a Toyota stealership for 4 years (worst 4 years of my life). The Lemon law is not based on emotion. Yes, this sucks, but there's a lot of parameters that need to be met to claim a lemon besides you being frustrated. I've seen Camry's and Corrolla's (previously known as remarkably reliable) lemon lawed for very minor issues that just kept reoccuring. I also saw V6 Camry's and Avalons come in with 30-40K that had bad knocks and the motors were LOADED with sludge. The owners get stuck with buying new shortblocks because Toyota thought 7,500 mile OC intervals would be OK. I lost count of lemon law threats, but none manifested . Eventually Toyota offered a warranty concessioned TSB that removed sludge from all the V6 (and eventually 4cyl) sludged motors. That cost Toyota MILLIONS back in 2002-ish ...funny how that never made news. Anyway - Unfortunately, the point is that you might have to get the word "Lemon" out of your head. You have a long way to go.

I'm trying so hard to wrap my head around this. My EGR seems to be working fine with the BPT completely bypassed. I say "seems" to be working fine because we've driven the car almost 300 miles this week and its doing OK on gas, no CELS's, and it runs like a champ. I have a little bit of a rough idle at a stop light - but that's about it. I ordered a BPT that will be here next week just because I want it to be right. Thanks guys - this is a ton of info.

Does anyone know what this vacuum valve/switch is? I just posted a thread yesterday with a handful of questions on a 97 OB I just picked up. The seller had a reoccurring CEL coming on traced to the EGR and he said he bypassed this valve and its been working fine. It has one of the front lines and one of the back lines disconnected and apparently the two others are re-routed from the factory schematic. Along with “What is it?” …I’m curious if he was BS’ing me or is this a part that can be bypassed to not interfere with the normal motor operation. I’m concerned that the CEL was tampered with. Seems to run great otherwise. THis is not my motor BTW - borrowed from google images.

yep - first Subaru. I have always been a Jeep guy. We live in WNC and 4wd is almost mandatory. Our built up Wrangler on 35's has been a daily driver - and at 13mpg, its time for something more economical on rainy days and road trips into Asheville or Atlanta. No - I'm clueless to the "virgin switch" ..do tell.