Tom63050
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Posts posted by Tom63050
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I like to use wheel bearing grease on both sides of a cork gasket. Seeps into the gasket and helps lessen leakage, since it's thicker than any oil. I also use it on oil filter gaskets and drain plug threads. Now I never have any leaks there.some people like to fully coat the cork gasket with RTV, let it dry, and then use it. Apparently it works well, but I haven't done it myself.. -
--Dealer thermostat or a Stant? Always use a dealer thermostat.
--Maybe the black stuff in the cooling system is disintegrating hose...replace them and keep the old ones as emergency spares. Murphy's Law guarantees the old ones will blow on the trip.
--Check the booster and brake lines carefully (or have a professional brake guy do it--yeah, brakes are kinda important). Has a new master cylinder been put on the car before you got it? Maybe the lines weren't tightened enough, onto the master cylinder. Or maybe you have a loose line on the vacuum booster.
--Does sound like the wrong radiator for that car, but you can make something work if you really want to; hardware-store brackets for example.
--I've also heard that it is a mistake to flush an old transmission that hasn't had it before, because the solvents they use to flush it will cause leaks.
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Most speedometers read fast with stock tires, by about 5%. I also have 185/80x13 tires on my lifted 91 Loyale. I verified that these tires only make the odometer read 2.5% slow, and figure the speedo is affected by about the same amount. The stock tires on my car were probably making the speedo read 2-3 MPH fast.OK. then this car's tire plate on the door post says 165 SR 13 and doesn't have a series. The the Goodyear tires on it are 185/ 80 R 13. Would that make it read more than 5%? I was driving my 90 sub at 55 MPH and the wife was following with this 92 and she was going 45 MPH. thanks for the comeback!The easiest way to check the odometer is to drive on a highway with mile markers for 20-50 miles, and compare the tripmeter reading with the distance you have driven on the highway. You need the tripmeter because it has tenths, for more accuracy.
The easiest way to check the speedometer is to drive at an indicated 60 MPH for however long it takes to go from one mile marker to the next. If it takes 60 seconds, your speedo is exactly right; 66 seconds, it's reading 10% high; 54 seconds, 10% low; 57 seconds, 5% low, etc.
So to calculate gas mileage I just add 2.5 miles per 100 (since it reads 2.5% slow) to whatever the tripmeter reads, then reset it when I fill up.
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Welcome to the Board! Nice car. Now you need...
1. Ozified lift kit.
B. Weber 32/36 DGEV carby. Use an EA82 manifold for better flow (the carb-base hole is larger).
3. Taller tires, about 28". Recommend 15" aluminium rims like the Peugeots as the best way to go, to keep rolling weight down.
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The larger tires will make it hard to accelerate, and they give a much larger rolling resistance. You end up with 20 MPG or less on a rig lifted like that, and virtually no power. Top speed on that thing is probably around 50 to 60 MPH. Passing is not happening, and any kind of hill will result in a high RPM 3rd gear pull. Been there, done that.
To which I will add that the weight of each tire/wheel will noticably increase stopping distances, due to the greater amount of rotating mass that must be brought to a halt. I had 28" Wildcats on two subes, an 84 wagon and a 91 Loyale, both lifted 3". Each tire/wheel weighed 52 lbs, vs. about 28-30 lbs for a normal 13" tire/wheel. Even with 185/80-13" Kumhos on the Loyale now, the tire+wheel weighs 32 lbs. (aluminum wheel).
There may also be shimmy and vibration issues. On the 84 they were fine, but on the 91 they shimmied at highway speeds, unless I aired them up to the point where they vibrated! A 6" lift on these cars demands 31" tires to look right, but overall function of the vehicle suffers.
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I have 185/80/13's on a 1988 gl wagon with no problems.
I also have 185/80-13s--Kumho 795 Touring A/S. I highly recommend them. Inexpensive, work well, 70K warranty. There is also a dealer locater at the website. The shop I used had to order them, but they came in a couple of days.
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I have had aftermarket coils be bad from the start, or fail intermittently as you are experiencing, so I'm thinking coil too. Do a search on "jegs coil" in the Older Generation forum and go to the thread called "Coil Problems...what's going on" for advice on aftermarket coils.Just replaced the Coil with an Accell. It did not fix the problem. -
Where he welded it shouldn't really matter, although the stock location would be a better place to monitor all four cylinders. And if you disconnect the O2 sensor it will still run.
Is your coil stock or aftermarket?
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Ive been living with this problem all summer now and its getting tiring. My weber seems to hessitate and start sputtering at around 2000 rpms but once im past that its fine. And coming off idle it doesnt have noticable hessitation. But since its at that rpm everytime im in gear and take my foot off the gas and put it back on the car bucks back and forth till i give it more gas then it gets past that hessitation and stops.
http://www.theautoist.com/weber_carb.htm
This specifically addresses hesitation of Weber carbs and how to fix it. Good luck.
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Excellent info, thanks all. Much clearer now.
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Sorry i cant help you on the first question but on the second one, the vac advances the the timing. The carbi distributers use a combination of vac advance and mechanical advance to achieve their total ammount of advance. Hope that helps
Thanks. OK, so it sounds like it is useful for carbed cars. How about FI cars? Same deal, or a whole different animal?
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I do not know what jets come from Redline Weber in the kit. Given the altitude of Denver CO, could this be the problem, or is there something simple I have missed?
This is the jetting I had. I ordered the Redline kit for a '78 VW bus, 1800cc. Later I switched the Weber to my 84 Sube wagon & it ran fine.
............................. Primary...Secondary
Main (fuel)................140..........140
Idle.............................60............55
Air correction............165.........160
The Weber book I had said that the main jets should be reduced by 5 (i.e. from 140 to 135) between 5000 - 6700 feet, and 5 more from 6700 - 10,000 feet. This keeps it from running rich in the thinner air. Reducing the primary seems important to me, but I doubt the secondary matters much, unless you have a heavy right foot.
But I think none of this has anything to do with your backfiring problem, just good info to know.
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On SPFI/MPFI cars, does it really do any good to advance the distributor timing? Or is timing affected by vacuum advance and the fuel management system? And do they override manually advancing the disty, so that it's pointless to do so?
On my 86 GL. I stuck a Weber on it and advanced the disty timing for more power (and used 89 octane gas to prevent detonation). But on that car, there was no computer telling the carb what to do. IIRC there was a vacuum line going to the disty. What function does that vac line have?
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It might well be the thermostat. Maybe it's stuck partially open. Make sure you have one from the dealer, not a Stant or something else. If you do replace the rad, that'd be a good time to do the t-stat anyway, along with hoses, especially those little ones people tend to not think about.
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While there are Justy people here, I'd recommend you join this board:
http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi
Good luck.
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Anyone interested in a 1-barrel Carter carb? I ordered a carb for my '81 Brat from an auto dismantler, and this is what I got, but it doesn't fit my car. I have sixty bucks into it, but that's negotiable. Also, anybody know of a good supplier for obsolete Subaru parts? I need a secondary air filter for my '81 Brat. It's part of emissions control. Anybody have any experience with these? Can I just bypass the thing? Thanks.
Send the carb back to where you got it and get your money back; they didn't fulfill their art of the bargain, by selling you the wrong carb. I guess you have a Hitachi carb?
Do you really have to do emissions inspection for a Brat? Seems like it'd be too old to require it. If not, seriously consider a Weber carb. The best way to go is to get an EA82 intake manifold from someone here (because it has a larger carb base opening, so it lets more mixture into your combustion chamber), and buy kit #K733 from www.webercarburetor.com/Catalogpages/subaru.htm.
If you go this route, it will give you the opportuity to install new intake manifold gaskets (where they meet the head). Get them from the dealer only. I'm thinking EA81 and EA82 gaskets will be the same. Plus you can then easily renew a few other hoses while you're in there.
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4. As of about a week ago I found out the 4WD button no longer works. I used it last probably in early April to get through some snow. I have no clue what it could be, no fuses are blown and I don't hear the usual "clunk" of it engaging 4wd.
I once had the same problem with my Loyale. Worked the first winter, then next winter no 4WD. With help from the Board I found the vacuum problem. The vacuum connectors for 4WD are on the driver's side firewall just behind the strut top. You'll probably find a loose vacuum line there.
I've been happy with the axles from www.cvaxles.com.
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I've been very happy with the axles I got from cvaxles.com.
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As an emergency fix to bring the temp down, you can turn on the heater and open the windows. That would also be a way to check on the responsiveness of your temp gauge, if there is a blockage. If the radiator and thermostat are OK, your gauge shouldn't move.
You might have a thermostat that's stuck partway closed. If you are replacing the radiator, replace the thermostat too, with one from the dealer--aftermarket ones are not considered very reliable. And of course hoses unless they look really good. Also there's an important and often overlooked o-ring on the metal pipe that connects the lower rad hose to the water pump, replace that too.
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...if I can get it cheap enough, I was thinking it could be a great place to put those ATV tire and wheel setup! Almost as small as an ATV, probably not quite as capable but a HECK OF A LOT cheaper!
I see that his reserve is not yet met at $565.55 (odd bid). When I talked to him, he seemed to think it might go to $1500! I said that it might go to about $800, realistically. The dealer seems to be a good guy, but he does have an agenda that involves separating people from as much money as possible (not a slam on him personally, just the nature of the business). I don't know what his reserve is. I hope you get it, they are really cool little cars.
But get the oil pump issues addressed ASAP, just to make the motor last longer. You can check with the Justy forum on that topic: www.subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi
As for the carb, I doubt it needs anything but a can of carb cleaner in the gas tank, a new air filter and possibly a tuneup. Also, it is possible to stick a Weber carb in Justys: www.webercarburetor.com/Catalogpages/subaru.htm You want kit #K730 (not listed for Justys but it should work, with little or no modification to the aluminum adapter plate).
On carbed cars, always replace the fuel filter when you buy it and keep a spare in the car along with tools to change it out. Saved my butt several times, twice on long road trips. And of course keep a record of what/when you've done stuff to the car.
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How do I tell which waterpump to get? The Parts Bin has several to choose from. Thanks
If you un-click "Show universal parts", you have 9 to look at instead of 15. First is OHV, next 2 are RX, plus 2 gaskets. Only 4 left. Then it comes down to "Factory AC" (short, 105mm shaft) or "No AC or dealer-installed AC" (long, 110mm shaft). Only one for factory AC: 105mm pump. Three of the 110mm pumps. Now it's down to 6mm studs or 8mm. So that's what you need to check if no AC or dealer-installed.
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Does anyone know these numbers?
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Yeah, thats the one. Just a question if I could Tom. About the AC. Does it have all the parts, just not working, or did it come without AC? (easier to fix AC than to try to install it new...)
Came without A/C, sorry. Also EFI is preferred over carb, but I'd get it anyway.
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I just went out and looked at this one yesterday! I'm in St. Louis. I had a 91 FI 5-speed I wish I'd never sold.
Weak points: oil pump; hard to get struts, and maybe other parts too, I'm not sure. I love the great gas mileage coupled with 4WD. All in all I think they're pretty good cars and would love to have another one, but at present I have no money to spare to bid on this one, which I'd definitely do if I could.
This particular one's a little rough around the edges, but basically solid I'd say. Good tires, exhaust, and clutch. No A/C. Dealer says it runs fine. Minor and easily-fixed rust issues, inexpertly repaired. It idles rough, only when cold he says. He's driven it around with no problems. I think it needs a tuneup, maybe some carb cleaner.
On the road, 2000 miles, 2000 pounds
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
You da man.
For all you left coasters who need help with yer Sube, he'll do right by you.