bobwires

I use a silicone mold-release sometimes. Works really good, but it's more expensive than wax, takes the same amount of time (need a couple coats plus dry time.) I ended up going back to Partall release wax. PVA is only so-so in these applications, if that's what you meant. More trouble than it's worth, for sure. Thanks The wires for the amp were planned from the git-go. You'll notice on the end of the amp rack nearest the seat there is a few inches of space as it gradually curves down. Wire channel! And the amp is spaced up 3/8" so the signal cables run underneath it to plug in on the other side, and allow for a little extra cooling via convection. Wires down each side of the car are zip-tied about every 6", and loomed anywhere they need protection - under the hood, above the drivers feet. The battery was re-grounded, and the amp was grounded to the floor below the back seat. I own Bobwires Audio

Yes, but there are quite a few tricks. If you lay some mat on the tape, and brush on resin from a cup, you're doing it wrong. Plus, the tape has to be thoroughly waxed so the glass doesn't stick. thanks

Thanks

Thanks Glad you guys like it Tractor pole, what pulled you out of 12v?

installed tight fit Here's the double beveled amp window. pretty cool, but cheap and easy. Floor back in. Still has full access to jack and spare. dirty floor mat back in. Trimmed it to fit.

Here's the conclusion Everything was sprayed with some black urethane primer I had laying around. Everything is 100% water-proof, and blacked out for looks. The vinyl was wrapped with NO heat.... the gap closes up nicely. the radii of the box and grille look pretty good! I'm really pleased with the shapes here. Tweeter pods wrapped, and in place.

Nothing attaches to the flimsy plastic trim. 2 bolts attached to the steel. One with a nutsert, other through-bolted through the wheel well.

thanks the fiberglass is just .75oz CSM, with some Knytex combo mat thrown in there. Black dye is what makes it the color you see. Both layups are about 1/4" thick. fillers used are Duraglass, Evercoat Rage Extreme, and a cheapo evercoat filler for the bulk of the rough stuff. This is by far the most filler I have used on a single job, at least in many years. I had to fill a lot more than I planned up on top..... When the glass is nice and smooth the filling and sanding work is cake.

trimming out the box the foam was all for shape. Just temporary. It's all gone, and the trim fits perfectly in place. It's no less than 1/4" thick! Poly primer blacking everything out, and sealing up any bits of wood.

Speaker baffles, and tweeter pods off of the stock trim

Here's my latest job. Nice gear - Hertz HDP5 amp, Hi-Energy speakers, Rockford p3 12" sub. sealed enclosure, 1.4 ft3

except metra doesn't make an integration or a bypass harness for the amp. the signal goes from the deck to the amp via a din cable. I just chopped off the speakers wires and ran a snake from the deck's high-level outputs to the speaker wires under the seat.

I'm a stereo guy. The stock deck is too shallow, so the kits for the aftermarket replacements are spaced an inch or more. Metra makes a dash kit and harness for it.

Fiberglassforums.com. You've got the patience and attention to detail, now it's time to get some glass going and work over the mr2! There are a couple of MR2 builds on there.

Gotcha. I was assuming it was a cheap mass-produced box with the pre-carpeted panels. I think you're method of wrapping is what made it peel - wrapping a box without tuck lines or side inserts is tough, but you can do it in such a way as to avoid the seams on the box corners. The seams there will pull up no matter what glue you use.

that sub will be a little deeper, and probably a little louder if you aim it backward. It's a cheap box. I'd recommend building a new one and wrapping it up right. nice work on your end. wiring looks great

nice wiring job. now it's time to do a nice wrapping job of that box!