Highway_Star

I typicaly use the PCV hose, although, that new spray looks a lot simpler to use, I'll try it next time.

Every mechanic in that pic is thinking the same thing: "Yup, there's yer problem, right there."

The gaskets are easy to change on the 2.2, you just have to unbolt the air filter housing to get enough room on the passenger side, and take out the washerfluid bottle, battery and battery tray for the drivers side. Having a set of wracheting wrenches makes a quick job of removal. When you replace the gaskets, remember to get new grommets for the bolts and new seals for the spark plug tubes. And while the vale covers are off, it's a good idea to check the valve lash.

Check if the A/C connector has power at the terminals.

Happens to me ALL the time, the tongue and sometimes the toe of my left shoe will catch the edge of the hood release lever when I'm getting out. I'm 6 foot 1 and have size 12 shoes, which I think are the main factors in accidentaly popping the hood, I haven't heard of shorter people having this problem.

I took the whole knuckle to a shop, paid them $110 to put the new bearings and seals in, they didn't take the hub bolts out (didn't need to). Found out that the inner seal (the one that the drive axle contacts) that every part store says fits this application (timken #710226), actually doesn't fit (too small), had to go to the dealership for the right one.

Trying to put in a new wheel bearing in my '99 Legacy, got the assembly off the suspension, (easy despite the rust from Midwest road salt) but I can't get the 4 bolts that hold the wheel hub to the backing plate. None of my box end wrenches are thin enough to get around them, I can't get a socket on top because of the tone ring, and the open end wrenches just round of the corners. How do they come out? Is there a special tool that only the Dealerships are supposed to have? Do I have to ruin a perfectly good 14mm wench to get it to fit?

I know it's not a clogged cat, they happen kinda gradually, this happened immedeatly after putting in the knock sensor.

I replaced the knock sensor and the pre-cat o2 sensor (I didn't see the other o2 sensor). Like I said earlier, the fuel trims are back to normal and it has a tiny bump in horsepower. But today I could feel the engine lose power and see the RPMs drop when the new knock sensor retards the timing when I give it a little throttle while the engine is cold. So now I've either uncovered a new problem with the engine, or I installed a bad sensor (it said "made in turkey" on the box), I'm going to take a closer look at the old sensor.

Do you know if the replacement pulleys are the ones with double roller bearings?

I replaced both sensors, the fuel trims are back to 0.0%. That o2 sensor is in an awkward place, had to rent a crows foot tool to get it out since there was no room for the socket type tool.

If the torque converter lock is on for some reason when you brake, it will make the engine stall just like a manual transmission with the clutch engaged.

Thanks, I know that the fuel trims are controlled by the O2 sensor, I just needed to know if a bad O2 could cause conditions that might fool the ECU into thinking the knock sensor went bad. Looks like I need to replace 2 sensors now.

I went to autozone and used their scan tool, found that there was a p0325 code (knock sensor). This is the second time that has happened (didn't replace it back then, just cleared the code and turned off the CEL, that was a year ago). When looking at the conditions that set the code, I noticed that the long term fuel trims were at negative 10.8%, meaning it was leaning out the fuel mix a lot. Could a very lean mix somehow cause a knock sensor code? Just want to know before I go and buy a new knock sensor if I actually need one. *edit* forgot to mention it's a 1999 Legacy with the 2.2 SOHC.

It's a 1999