jontyuk

Thanks for the input received, all good info. As wtdash said that they might rub on the back spring perch. that definitely is the closest point for contact. Even with my 1/4" tread I can just run my fingers around the tire. With a new tire of 205/55 with a full tread, no chance! matt167 mentioned 195/55 would be only slightly larger than the existing and might just fit. But as the are more expensive over here than my current tire I have discounted that idea. sirtokesalot mentioned the 250/55 were fine on his Outback. I suspect that as the Outback is slightly higher overall than my Legacy that would account for the extra space for the rear tires over mine. Thanks again for all the input, at least I now know that the 205/50 tires are correct and Subaru know what they are doing!

I own a 1998 Legacy Wagon 2.5 c 4 cam currently running stock 205/50R16 tires. These now need replacing and I am considering changing to 205/55R16. mainly down to cost, as the 55's are around two thirds the price of the 50's here in the UK. The assumed softer ride would also be beneficial. The increase in tire diameter for the 55's would be 8/10" and the indicated speed would be ~3.00% lower. I would appreciate any thoughts on possible difficulties or why it would not be a good idea. Thanks jontyuk

The air conditioning on my 1998 Legacy Wagon 2.5i suddenly stopped working. I found after eliminating the obvious causes such as low refrigerant relay, fuses etc. that the twin wire connector to what looks like a sensor on the compressor top was showing “open circuit” with my ohmmeter. (see illustration). On jumping the connector with copper wire the air-con worked normally. Could anyone tell me what is the function of the sensor, could I leave it as it is, or shall I replace it, I found a Subaru reference Bulletin number 10-74-02 which highlights concerns over a malfunctioning compressor revolution sensor. Is this what it is and could I do without it. No doubt it's expensive and would certainly entail a refrigerant recharge at best. Here's hoping!

Here's the offending item! (Better out than in)

Eureka! The suckers out When it was dark I shone the torch down the filler hole, no sign of it. Redrained the old oil which I replaced and shone the torch up through the drain plug. There it was about 4" up directly below the filler hole side and wedged between the large differential gear and the diff. casing. This is where that grabber tool would have been ideal, anyway I bent a hook on a piece of wire and dragged the sucker out. Was I relieved!! I now have a Legacy with fresh engine oil, autotransmission oil and front and rear oil, without the worry that something is going to break at anytime and does it run sweet? you bet. Thanks to all who responded, much appreciated. Regards, Jontyuk

Removed the large black air chamber so I can look directly down the filler tube when it gets dark using a powerful light. I did establish that the tube material sinks in the diff. fluid so unless it's wedged some ware it should be on the bottom. Some good ideas have been posted and thank you for those. I liked the compressed air blow method which made me think that I could adapt my shop vacuum using a smaller diameter flexible nozzle, in an attempt to grab it. The suggestion that the speed sensor is situated in the diff. is worrying and I believe correct as there is a an electric connector to a tapped in component on top of the diff. perilously close to the filler hole. It has to come out! Let you know how I get on tonight.

Good idea. If I had one of these when I did it I could have probably retrieved it. However on attempting to remove it with a bent sharpened wire it slipped off and disappeared into the bowels of the diff. I aggree the mashing method is a worry but looking on the bright side I can't see what damage could be done as it's soft plastic versus hardened metal. The alternative is a lengthy stripdown. Anybody have suggesions on the best method for this? Thanks.

Can't believe what I have just done. Drained the front differential on my 1997 2.5 Legacy auto and while refilling, a 4" length of soft tubing I had attached to the funnel to extend it, fell down the filler tube. No sign of it down filler hole, using a mirror, nor via the drain plug hole. My initial thought is to refill front diff. using the old oil then drive it arround for a while then redrain and hope the tubing gets "mashed" and is removed with the oil. Any thoughts?

Sorry for the delay in responding, been away for a few days. I can see the confusion as the U S manifold is very different to my UK spec. Legacy i.e no expansion joint. As a temporary repair I used an exhaust putty (Hermotite) . This seems to be holding up well. On reflection the time taken to remove the heat shields would have been far more usefully employed (and easier) by removing the manifold. This is what I shall do if the 'bodge' repair fails to hold up. Thanks for all your comments Regards Jonty

Hi, Can anyone suggest the best repair method to an exaust leak around the copper expansion bellow on the left manifold pipe just before the connection to the right downpipe. After removing the heat shields, the crack was visible extending abt 300 degrees around the perimeter of the weld between the copper bellow and the steel manifold. Is it possible to weld this in place or would it be best to remove the manifold completely and have it rewelded elsewere? The vehicle is an 1998 EJ25 Legacy Wagon, I would like to avoid purchasing a new one! Jonty.

Just experianced a faulty Mass air flow sensor on my 98 2.5 legacy. I noticed a slight engine hesitation and then the engine check light came on. A further five miles on the engine cut out and I had to pull into the side. On attempting to re-start, the engine would fire but sounded if it was running on two cylinders and then stopped. I had to call recovery and the mechanic could not fix it. The vehicle was then taken to the local Subaru Dealer who diagnosed a faulty Mass air flow sensor which set me back £320 (approx $470) for parts and labour. the recovery was covered by my insurance. Does anyone know if a failure such as this, on a part that was on a recall list, is eligable for a retrospective repayment? Or as I suspect, I have no chance!!

Thanks Setright, its the answer I feared but also suspected, I'll go along with your recommendation, Thanks again.

Hi, Just been quoted £250 ($460) for a replacement rear exhaust box (muffler) from Subaru UK. This has lasted since new (1998) on my 2.5 DOHC Legacy Wagon, which isn't bad !. Has anyone have any opinions on whether to go for this option or a cheaper make at a third of the price. I intend to retain this vehicle for at least the next few years.