Speedbuggy

I'm going to pick up one of those Bosch valves and see how it works. Ill report back when I'm done. Thanks for all the help BTW would anyone have a rough idea how much that valve might increase my idle while fully open?

That looks perfect for my application. Now I just have to find one

Your first solution sounds promising. How is it plumbed in? Your second suggestion is what i already have. That block is made for a stepper motor, and I haven't been able to find a PWM that will work with it nor a version of it made for a PWM.

Any links for a throttle kicker? Sounds like an intriguing idea.

Yes it's custom. I believe the original Idle Control valve plugs into the throttle body right? I'm not even sure what the throttle body I have is from, but a Subaru tuner told me it's not a stock Subaru body.

I'm more worried about having to tap the intercooler and intake manifold.

The ECU will take care of that. Once it sees the manifold pressure change it will increase the fuel to compensate. I've been trying to figure out a way to do a time or temperature based solution but haven't been able to come up with anything yet

Thanks.. I've read all up on that.. The megasquirt WILL support an idle control valve, but my ECU wont.. Well, it WILL support a PWM valve, but I haven't been able to find a way to get a PWM valve into the intake path. I have a block for using a stepper valve, but my ECU won't control a stepper valve.

ON my buggy (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=113679 ) that's running a turbo charge EJ25D, controlled by an EMS Stinger ECU, I don't currently have any sort of idle control, which means when the engine is cold it tends to stall when you let off the gas until it warms up a bit. I want to add an ICV, but my ECU won't support one. what I want to do is get something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-SS-12V-DC-Solenoid-Valve-STAINLESS-VITON-S20V-/290722239826?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b0655552#ht_2389wt_1163 And plumb a line from the outlet of my intercooler, through the solenoid and into my intake manifold upstream of the throttle body. Then all I'd need to do is flip a switch and the idle should jump up.... Theoretically. This valve has an 1/8" inch orifice, so I'm not sure how much that's going to boost my idle. I'd like it to idle at around 1200 rpm when the switch is engaged. So, first, is there any merit to this idea at all? Second, does anyone have any idea how much of an idle increase I'd get with basically an 1/8th" leak in my intake manifold?

Thanks.. Spending a day in the junkyard sounds like a great idea to me!

Thanks.. Any idea where I could find such a valve?

Thread resurrection! I'm still trying to fine tune my cooling setup and get the heater working properly. In a normal Subaru, if there' always coolant flowing through the heater core, how is the temperature of the air coming out of the heater ducts regulated (ie. what does turning the temperature control knob do)?

Sorry, one more stupid question.. Do I need to drain the coolant before I yank the valve covers? (again.. used to air-cooled VWs...)

Hardy-har-har Unscrew, ubolt, yada, yada, yada... I just want to make sure that taking them off isn't a major undertaking. I've never worked on a DOHC engine before (all my real engine experience is on a Classic Volkswagen Beetle engine where the valve covers are just held on by bailing wire and you pull them off as part of normal maintenance).

Hey gang, my valve covers are chromed, but they need redone. Can I just unscrew them without getting into to much trouble?

Thanks for the replies everyone. I am aware of the reverse cut gears for running a subaru tranny in this configuration and may go that route down the road, but it appears I'm fine running at 3400rpm for long periods, so I'll stick with this for now. As for top speed, that's not a concern. These buggy bodies tend to start getting 'flighty' at high speeds. Most it'll ever see is what it tops out at in the 1/4mile.

I'm more asking just to get a feel for what RPMs the engine should be comfortable maintaining for long periods. 4k at 80mph is about what I'm at too.

I'm not asking if what I'm seeing is normal, I'm asking what's normal for an actual Subaru with a similar engine like a WRX or STi.

I took my Buggy for it's first highway cruise today. At 70mph I'm at 3400rpm. This is with a 4 speed VW transaxle. What's normal for Imprezza/WRX?

Oh yeah, I love the sound of this engine and I love hearing the turbo wined up! The only reason I can get away with the emissions is because it's getting titled as a "specially constructed vehicle" (ie. a Kit Car) and cars with these special titles don't need to pass emissions.

No video yet. I'm still working on getting plates on it in Pennsylvania (they're a pain in the rump roast about kit cars here).

Transaxle is a beefed up Volkswagen Beetle deal with Porsche 930 CVs and axles.

Yeah, it has hookups for water cooling, but they're plugged currently. Thanks for the compliments. Like I said though, it's not a sandrail, it's strictly a street buggy! As for the noise level it's not nearly as loud as you'd think thanks to the turbo and a couple of baffles in that little stub of a pipe.

Actually, mine isn't a sandrail and does in fact have a (albeit small) heater core. It doesn't go through the throttle body, but I won't be driving this below 50F or so, so that shouldn't' be an issue. It also currently doesn't go through the turbo but I'm thinking about routing a line through it as well (off of the same line going through the heater core). Any thoughts on that?

Like I said, the company who built it normally builds them for sandrails so they don't put thermostats in them. It DOES get up to full operating temperature without, it just takes a pretty long time.. 10 minutes of drive time even during the summer. They're also run with a stand alone ECU, so there's no 'codes' to worry about or anything. Outfront (the company who built mine) use the EMS Stinger (http://www.fuel-injection.com/frameindex.htm ). However, my Buggy is NOT a sandrail, and is set up strictly for street use (it's more of a HotRod at heart than a Dune Buggy). Driveability is a concern for me (the sandrail guys don't mind starting it up and letting it warm up for a few minutes before driving, etc). So I want to put in a thermostat on mine. However, I would like it to open up pretty early. What temperatures are available in an OEM unit?