jensen0510

Latest update......tried a new coil, close but no cigar It tries to fire now, but now I have a new development........After trying to crank the car, I walked back to the front and here this gurgling sound. I loosen the radiator cap and it sprays water everywhere...... I think I got a busted head gasket/head, thus the reason it no run....exchange of bodily fluids....does this sound right to anyone else...I have much evidence now of an extreme overheating episode....new radiator, oil smells burnt, pressure in the radiator when it is cold after cranking, melted knock sensor. What kind of job am I looking at to pull the engine? Is it worth it, can it be rebuilt? What kind of cost. Can I pull the heads with the engine in the car? Bummer.....

Subie still no go. Replaced the knock sensor and it still won't fire. Started checking individual cylinders for fire, and not getting spark on #3. Coil? Switched wires around and it is specific to the #3 port on the coil Do I buy a new coil, a new igniter? Thoughts?

So far it is a POS, when I get it running it will be FANTASTIC. I bought the car for $400. I still haven't heard it run and I still don't know if I can get it running, I'm seeing evidence (the knock sensor and a new radiator) of an extreme overheating event. I guess we will see. Not meaning to knock on the Subaru, this is my first experience with one and I must say that is has survived it's first 240,000 miles much better than most cars would. I'm starting to have a little fear that it may not be worth the $400 I spent, but I guess we will find out soon enough Still hopeful

I think we have a winner....has anyone ever seen a knock sensor melt? All the plastic melted off the sensor and ran down onto the block. It looks like a candle melted....CRAZY!!! I'm off to get a new one and see if this POS will run. I'll update with the results soon

Well, I have new plugs, I have a new battery. I triple checked the timing and it is spot on. I checked the codes and pulled a code 22 for the knock sensor. I'm getting fuel, it's getting spark. it sounds like it's trying to at least hit now, I'm not sure where to go from here....HELP please!!! Will the knock sensor keep it from running? I have no experience with this part. Thanks for all the suggestions so far!!!

Here's the latest after checking the timing belt. The timing belt is fine and hasn't skipped. Everything lines up perfect. I had checked the spark with a timing light and knew it was getting voltage sent to the plug. I decided to pull a plug and see what it looked like. OMG, there is no telling how long those plugs have been in the car!!! I hooked it to the wire and grounded it while a friend cranked the car over......it was the smallest spark I've ever seen come from a plug. They were all solid black. On the good side there was at least gas making it to the cylinders. At this point I'm going to try replacing the plugs and the battery (it's shot as well) Wish me luck and feel free to jump in if you think of anything else I should look at. Thanks for all the advice so far !!!!

Thanks, I did find the Cali belt when I looked under a 95 model. it's $27.99, instead of 42.99.....weird, but it works for me I'm planning to re-use the old belt to see if I can get it running. I don't want to spend any more on it than I have to until I hear it run and test out the rest of the drivetrain. I'm into it for $400 (what I paid) and i figure if I can get it running and throw some used tires on it I'll have really cheap transportation. I'm trying to get rid of my car payments so as soon as it's running the Jeep Wrangler goes up for sale. I'll miss the jeep, but I'm excited about the Legacy, just hope I can breath life into it. One other question, what is the best way to test the fuel pressure? I'm assuming there is a gauge, what kind and where do I get it?

I just checked advance auto parts......they show the same part number for both with the same price. it's also the same part and the same price as Auto-zone. I'm guessing they all sell the same belt for Cali and the rest of us. I'm ready to get home and get it torn down so I can see if it is really out of time or not. If not, I guess I start scratching my head again.

When I look at Autozone, the only option it shows is the Dayco belt for $42. How do I find the Cali belt?

Thanks to everyone for all your responses. Correct me if I'm wrong but if the crank or cam sensor were bad, I didn't think it would get a spark at all. As for the fuel pressure, I tried pouring a little gas in in the intake, and it acted like it almost tried to fire one time, but that was it. I tried a couple of more times and it never hit again. I have done a number of timing belts so I'm not scared (the last one was a Yota Sequoia!!! Yikes), and I have found the info on the timing here. I'll make sure I get the Subaru belt. I'm not sure if I'll do the water pump. I don't know that I want to spend the money until I'm sure I can get it to run. I thought I read on here that you can set the timing and then start it before you put it back together. Is this true, I would guess you would just put the crank pulley back on and try to start without the accessories hooked up. I'm also wondering if I have to remove the fans and the radiator to do this job? I'm guessing yes to the fans, but it would be easier if I didn't have to pull the radiator. I'll keep you posted, I'm hoping to get the belt and give it a try this weekend.

Hey, This is a great forum, I'm hoping you guys can help me out a little. I just bought a 91 Legacy that doesn't run. The guy said it died while his son was driving down the road and it wouldn't restart after that. I went ahead and bought it. It has a 2.2 with AWD. I got it home (yes I flat towed it and I now know I shouldn't have, but it was less than a mile from his house to mine.) I hooked up a timing light and it is getting spark. I disconnected the fuel line and it is getting gas to the fuel rail. I've checked all the fuses and relays. My original guess when I was looking at the car, was that the timing belt either broke or it jumped a couple of teeth. After I came home and confirmed that this was a non interference engine, I went back and bought it. I've taken off both cam sprocket covers and after rotating the engine I'm pretty sure that what I'm seeing is telling me it has jumped a couple of teeth. When I rotate the engine so that both cam alignment marks are lined up where they should be, the white marks on the belt are 2 teeth off of the alignment mark on both sprockets. I haven't pulled the middle cover, but my guess is the cams are out of time with the crankshaft. Does this sound right to you guys? Please let me know if this makes sense, or if there is something else I might be overlooking. I'm really excited about getting this thing running, I just don't want to tear it down to find out It was something else simple. One more thing, when I crank it over, it won't hit a lick, just cranks until it drains the battery. Sorry this is so long:-\