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Fuel pressure regulator possibly? Working most of the time but every so often throwing the fuel/air mixture way off.

Okay, thanks. I'll bite the bullet and replace the radiator. I'm not out that much if it doesn't resolve. Check one more thing off.

Hello all. I have a 95 Subaru Legacy with the EJ22 in it, USA, not California, with 230K on it. About 1 year ago it randomly overheated and I could find no explanation apart from the fluid was low, but clueless where it went. Topped the fluid, burped it, and went on my way. Repeat 3 weeks later. Now advance to now and I have to refill after every 20 mile trip I make to and from work to stave off overheating. Yes, I have twice overheated the engine during this accidentally, but not significantly before cooling down, . I realize that each and every time I am topping off I am not taking the time to burp all the air out, but after repeating burpings this seems futile. At idle the system will pressurize and operate normal, nothing out of place. However, when I push the engine hard, on the freeway, at higher RPM's the issues begin. The coolant displaces in large quantities from the radiator into the overflow and turns it into a true overflow. One time so epic it blew the plastic cap off and it is now among freeway debris. Then begins the process of slowly losing the heater unless at high rpm's on to no heater and then onto overtemp. Last time it overheated the temp outside was -1F and I was traveling at freeway speeds. When I look at the overflow I can see bubbles slowly bubbling to the top, about 2 per second. I have attempted to test said bubble with the chemical hydrocarbon test and have never successfully got it to indicate it was in fact exhaust gases. However it is hard because the radiator is still pressurized and I can't open it and the overflow is spilling over. Things I have tried: water pump x1, it failed after the first overheating experience. Radiator caps times 3, not oem, but motorad - I can tell the system is staying pressurized by squeezing the radiator hose. Burping numerous times, numerous ways. Thermostat x 2 - one the cheap stant then the fancier stant. Flushing. Stop-leak ( I know but the car is old enough to drink and has 230K on it), flush a couple more times. Also of interest when the car starts in the cold (-5 to around 25 average this time of year) it chugs like an old farm tractor. It clearly is not firing on all cylinders properly for about the first ten seconds, then to a smoother lope, then on to a fast high idle and all sounds normal. Is it the headgaskets? The absence of proving hydrocarbons has me worried. I can get a 20 dollar radiator from the pick and pull, should I try it or is it futile? Thanks for all your help on an issue hashed out many times!

So embarrassing moment, upon closer examination one of the water proof connectors on the top of the tranny didn't latch closed and rattled loose. Got aggressive with it and it is now latched firmly closed. This fixed the power loss and bogging down issue. Now I am just left with the whine and now some random rattle that sounds almost like a bearing rattling around in the transmission. The rattle continues for a bout 30 seconds after the car is off like something inside is still spinning. I like the idea of taking off the belts to eliminate the PS as a source. I was thinking of going redneck and duck taping my voice recorder into various parts of the engine compartment and then finding where it is loudest. On the list for tomorrow...

I feel your pain and also may have inherited someone else's junk yard transmission problems in my swap. Sounds like we are in a similar spot. Off to research more...

Not sure, but it is from the same model year, engine, and has the same transmission code. I will look closer at them, but when they tranny was down they felt ok and I didn't see anything glaringly wrong. It does exhibit a little bit of torque bind when cornering, though not near as bad as the old transmission did. TB is about 18 months old, replaced after I had to reconstruct the damage from my autoshop not properly reinstalling the crank pulley, timing gear, and key. The power steering pump does have a leak that needs to be repaired, I can't reproduce the noise unless the car is moving, but have tried to play with the steering when the car is moving and making the noise and it doesn't seem to be PS related. Haven't seen a CEL at all for these problems and not for a few years, whatever was stored I think will be gone as it sat sans power for two weeks during the tranny swap. It has 197,000 on it and is in relatively good condition. I am the second owner and bought it in 2002 with 78,000. I take good care of my cars and she has been well maintained. I just can't for the life of me figure this out.

I have a 95 legacy with 197k on it that developed a whine from somewhere up front. At around the same time the reverse went out so I swapped in a salvage transmission 4eat hoping the noise would go away, but it still has not. The noise is semi-high and almost sounds like cavitation. It only happens when the engine is under a high load, gets increasingly louder as things heat up, and is proportional to the engine rpm, not speed. Yesterday it got really hot and the engine started to bog down when starting from a stop. It felt like something was physically fighting the engine and the car didn't want to roll. When stopped the resistance was enough I could sit in gear and the car wouldn't roll forward. In park the engine still seemed like it was under load and wouldn't idle below 1200. It did have the AC on, but this is still abnormally high even for AC on. When I shut the car off it rolled forward a bit like the engine was holding it in place until it was off. I was off the brakes for about 30 seconds before it shut down, so it wasn't the normal roll as the park clicks in. I ran it in FWD around the block and it didn't seem to change anything. I just have a hard time thinking both transmissions have the same problem. I'm desperate for a solution before I totally mess something up. I'm thankful for any help anyone could offer.

Project got sidelined to work and waiting for parts. Does anyone know where I can get the woodruff key? Mine is mostly dust.

Crank Pulley, don't think its supposed to look like that. Crank gear, also dont think its supposed to look like that.

I know this has been addressed a few times and seems to be a common problem, but can't find one piece. My pulley started to wobble and wasn't sure why, thought maybe the crank was bent or front bearings were going out but in retrospect likely not the problem as the engine would have destructed. Then on a road trip the pulley loosened enough to dump the belts off. I was in the middle of nowhere with my family and put the belts on and ran it again, in the process it tightened itself up again, which is still a WTF moment. Pulled the pulley and it appears the crankshaft gear and the pulley are totally munched out. The woodruff key is mostly in the form of dust in the timing belt area, but found a small piece of it. I am wondering if the crankshaft gear can be pulled off. I would think it has to be possible or how else would you get to the front oil seal. I have pictures, but can't seem to get them to upload. Thank you for your help!!