Setright

Well, the ability for parking lights is required over here, but there is no regulation that demands the column mounted switch.

If the cat is very old and rusted, a blacksmith will probably not want to start welding on it, cause it won't last. However, you might be able to get someone to make a new, cat-less, pipe, that has two threaded inserts for the O2 sensors. Yes, it may not be legal, but think of all the good you will do for the environment in terms of fuel economy improvement. Expect 5-10%. Or buy a new Sube cat. The money you might be able to save by buying a non-OE cat will be offset by the frustration of discovering that the cheap part doesn't fit right. Get new gaskets for all the sections you intend to disconnect.

I am a Mintex-man myself. You should look into M1144 or M1155 for your car. I would recommend replacing the discs at the same time. Even the standard Mintex pads are far superior to Sube's pads.

I haven't tried it, but since the Forester is essentially a lifted Impreza, I expect you want to look for Impreza turbo components. The floorplan and suspension subframes are the same, so the exhaust route should be similar. Ditto the engine mounts. There should be plenty of standard turbo kits around, since most Imp GT/WRX owners upgrade.

Pads are in need of replacement.

YIKES! The scary thing about that funny comment is that it's true ;-)

New rotors on the front for sure. New pads all round. You will kick yourself if end up with problems in the near future, related to pinching the pennies and sticking with old pads. If the brakes shudder badly, the pads have been cooked.

Well, most of the good advice has been spent....new washer, primed filter, but they left out latex gloves!

All gears? Try idling the car in neutral and listening for the same sound as you let the clutch in and out. The gearbox internals will spin up when the clutch is engaged, and if the noise is related to the mainshaft bearings, you should be able to hear it. It is normal for a Sube gearbox to "whirr" slighty. Again, do the same thing while coasting. This way the output shaft will also be spinning.

Netheadbob: 1.1 mm - you convert into customary... ;-)

Hats off to the dealer!

So how do you double-de-clutch and match revs as you brake hard and shift from 4th to 2nd??? Shame on Nissan!

Start with four new tyres. Uneven wear is potenially damaging to the AWD system. Valve cover gaskets, PCV valve and spark plugs next. If the exhaust is seriuosly on the fritz, get a new one. Bear in mind that buying an aftermarket exhaust can pose fitment problems. A Subaru exhaust will fit, last a long time, and not be loud. New rear dampers last, that way you will have learned how well the car drove with worn dampers, and when you replace them it will be like getting a new car!

What type of car by the way? The actual amount of shavings would not worry me. When a main bearing failed on my 1990 Legacy, @129k miles, the oil was full of metal shavings. More than the magnet could hold!

Well, yeah. It does give easy access from the bottom of the car.

It is actually quite normal for a manual tranny to shed some metal. Synchros are working hard and cog teeth from reverse tend to get chipped. The magnet is there to collect them and alert you of a serious problem. "Serious" is a big pile of metal shavings on the magnet. A thin coating is no cause for alarm. Haven't seen your magnet though...

Well, so far the bumper has come off, been re-painted, mounted, and the car is back with me. Dealer was kind enough to lend me a standard silencer while we wait for a new performance silencer to arrive.....probably four weeks!!!!

The mid-pipe will likely need replacing. That means new springs, bolts, and gasket for the connection to the catalyst. The flange at the other end, that connects to the muffler will probably be tired and will not make a tight seal.

Just laying quality, price, and those things on the shelf: The Passat is boring to drive. That would be the clincher for me :-)

Thanks for the concern! I am fine, had my doctor check out my spine immediately afterward. "Terri" has had her bumper pushed in about half an inch, and the paint is cracked. Dealer will pull the bumper off and check for more damage. The woman who hit me wasn't hurt at all. Though she did seem to start seeping tears when she pulled away. I am going to make sure the dealer understands that my custom exhaust system MUST be fixed 100%. Be careful out there!

Well, I think I will remove the overflow bottle and check the bottom of it for gunk. Some slimely build-up is to be expected, and who knows how it might affect the stability of the system.

..by a dozy woman in a queue coming off a highway. She was doing about 10 miles an hour, and I had just stopped. CRACK! BANG! My car lept forward, felt like my clutch cable snapped. I managed to stop again before hitting the guy in front of me. Now, this is always a pain, but of course her insurance is paying for it...BUT I only just finished my new exhaust system, new mid pipe and performance silencer. I have run into some fitment issues and finally got everything the way it should last Friday. She hit me hard enough to bash my silencer. Well, I call it that, but it ain't silent anymore. Think she bent the flange to the mid pipe and it's leaking. ARGH!

Just came from the dealership... "Never heard of a bad rap cap...yackety yak....try bleeding the system...blah..blah..blah...." WHY ARE ALL DEALERS LIKE THIS????

Check the coolant for traces of HC or CO.

You will need a dealer tool to bleed it. Basically, you attach the thing, bleed the brakes per normal, and then use the "tool" to force the ABS pump to cycle as if it was active. Then bleed again...and again.... why isn't there a bleed screw on the unit??