Setright

The knock sensor. Screwn into the engine block.

Gotta love the rush, whoosh, and vroom of a turbo ! If only I could afford one :boohoo:

Worn wheel bearings always start by rumbling or droning. Usually, turning either way at speed will change the character of the noise since the load on the bearing changes. Lucky Texan, a whining bearing must have been REALLY worn!

May I quote myself? Okay: "Pardon me for sounding like an arrogant jack rump roast" "I don't know, maybe I am just too cynical" Now, I mean what I have written about operating machines, but the above quotes should indicate to all readers that I know I am not the majority. Martin, try this for size: I actually read the manuals of stuff BEFORE I make the purchase. That way, I know for sure if the device will do what I want - and if it's a pig to operate, I don't buy it. Yes, some shop clerks do seem ready to call the cops when I make the request to see the manual : "Get this lunatic out of my shop!!" Analogies are always tricky, but my point is that what is obvious to some, is not so obvious to others. Same point you were making I think? That may be why you think it's a lame analogy, because "how to drive an automatic" is second nature to you, much like parking lights are to me.

Well, there's a company that makes stuff for bikes: "Finish Line" I believe their dry oil is called "Krytech" - but just ask for it in any mountainbike shop...and hopefully they'll have it or something similar It can be a royal pain in the backside to apply in the under dash hinges, ideally, remove the driver seat (only five bolts) so you have room to get upside down!

For sure it's a good idea to leave the fuse in !

Never mind what country, my grumbling just relates to people not taking time to learn how to operate their machines. If I bought a car with automatic transmission - unusual in Europe - and couldn't even get it off the dealers forecourt because the stupid gearlever wouldn't budge out of "P", who's fault would that be?? Hey look, they've hidden a sticker RIGHT next to the gear lever: "To release from P, depress brake pedal", what's that all about??? How much egg would there be on my face when I call the dealer next morning and complain that the damn thing won't start? Ohhhh! You have to be in either P or N for the engine to start. Dang it, why did they hide that in the User's Manual?? I don't know, maybe I am just too cynical

Greetings! I have just had my centre pipe replaced for the third time - warranty! - due to internal rattle problems. Holy smokes, I love the noise this car is SUPPOSED to make....deep, baritone, thrum - no rattles or clicking noise. Just thought I'd share that with everyone, because I needed to say: I LOVE MY SUBARU!!! to people whom I know will understand Happy motoring everyone!

Well, I see your point. However, there is a third argument you may have overlooked: The tyres on the car have worn themselves to match the present alignment. If you have the alignment done first, then the tyres will tend to pull the suspension out of alignment again. So, I don't think thats a good idea. I say, get the new tyres first. The car might just track straight on new rubber. Odd things happen at toward the end of a tyre's life, and maybe carcass wear/damage is pulling the steering off the straight-ahead. Of course, I would recommend doing them at the same time - beg or borrow, but don't steal the money Oh, and don't pinch the pennies and get crappy tyres! Don't replace just one set of tyres, AWD centre diff won't like it.

As you wish captain, as you wish!

...by lifting up the front end of the car, on axle stands so its stable. Engine off, slowly swing the steering from one extreme to the other. Then do the same with the engine on. At the extremes there should be noticable hissing/whirring noise as the fluid recirculates. Good luck!

Pardon me Dr. RX. I treat this forum as international, being in Europe myself, and you never know what sort of specs exist in other countries. Also, the worry on the DOHC is VAVLES colliding, no pistons mentioned by the Lucky Texan

It is always a good idea to "prime" any filter before installing it, if possible. Thankfully, Sube filters tend to be screwn on from the bottom and make priming easy :-)

OHC or DOHC? There are notches in the rear section of the cam belt covers that should align with the single notches in all the sprockets. If it's a DOHC the double marks on the lower half of the intake cam sprocket should be used to line up the exhaust cam sprocket.

How can anyone not know the functions of all the buttons in their own car?? Okay, I may be extreme in my button prodding - I even like to read manuals - but owning a car and not knowing how it operate it? Pardon me for sounding like an arrogant jack rump roast

The FWD fuse is supposed to lock out the drive to the rear wheels, but I would never let any 4WD car be towed. Get it on a flatbed truck! Do you suspect damage??

NO! You'll blow holes in the pistons. Turbocharged engines have a lower mechanical compression. If you force feed a na engine - high compression - bad things happen very quickly. You will need to replace the pistons, maybe the crankshaft, and certainly the injector nozzles - they need to be bigger to feed more fuel to join the force fed air.

I like to use a "dry" oil for such things, you know the sort that leaves a wax film on components. "Wet" oils will always run and find thier way into places they shouldn't be - like on the brake pedal rubber!!

Okay, I accept that the first time you replace the oil filter on a car you might need a wrench, since some careless mechanic has probably overtightened it. However, if you tighten it correctly then it will come off by hand the next time you change it. I've started using latex gloves when I work with fluids on the car, very kinky I know, but I don't think that saturating my hands in hot oil every two months is healthy

My front passenger door wouldn't stay in the unlock position. The only remedy was to replace the interior door handle/lock button unit. Turns out that the spring that returns the chrome door handle thingy to home position had broken the plastic hook that holds it and the spring was now pushing against the door luck button. Perhaps your problem is similar?

Im-pret-sah Okay, I am not an English teacher so I cant do the right phonetic thing, but that's my impression of the car's name!

Well, I am not an expert on your specific model, but I will offer my general advice anyway: When you remove the drive axles, make sure you punch the dowels out of the indboard CV joint in the correct direction. They are tapered! There should be a mark on one end to indicate this. Basically, if taping on it doesn't make it budge, try from the other side. It is possible to replace the joint alone, but it takes a press (or big hammer) to get the joint off the axle. Some Subaru brake caliper pistons need to be screwed back into the caliper. Not sure about your model. I always expand the brake caliper by squeezing the whole assembly with a large G-clamp before I loosen any bolts. I reckon this beats trying to push the piston in alone. Easy does it, don't tighten the clamp too fast - and watch the fluid level in the reservoir, it will rise....but you probably know this

Well, I don't have any glamorous weed stories, but I use it when I leave the car for a couple of minutes in a no-parking zone. The parking lights on send a signal that "Hey, I ain't gone for long". (In Denmark you are allowed to stop for three minutes if there is no parking.) Most other road users seem to use their hazard flashers for this, but I think that is serious misuse of a distress signal. They are also useful when parking on un-lit roads at night, which I believe is their official use. Oh, and the light stalk switch is de-activated along with the ignition, that's why Subes have the extra switch!

I think its because they don't use hydraulic valve lifters - even though these have a tiny capacity.