Fritz

Nipper, You are right about retraining myself. I think that the new system will work, if I learn to work with it - its just so different from the old system that I was used to. Then again as my daughter reminded me, I can always go back to the old faithful hill holder - the hand brake. That seems to work just fine for her in her mt Honda Fit. Fritz

Nipper, Thanks, this is generally what the Subaru service department told me. I don't know what the previous Forester hill holder did, but the 09 version seems like a major down grade from the hill holder on my 98 legacy. It just seems really stupid. Fritz

As I understand it, the 09 Forester has a hydraulic clutch so that the old cable system for the hill holder no longer applies. I knew how to adjust that on the 98 Legacy. I assumed that the problem was about the hill holder being out of adjustment, but thought that since it was under warrantee and I needed an oil change, I'd let the dealer take care of it. I was hoping someone on this board would know what the deal was with this, so that I could go back to the dealer with ammunition. Thanks, Fritz

After driving my 98 Legacy mt for 10 years, I bought a base model 09 Forester mt last summer. When I try to use the hill holder, it holds for a couple of seconds after I let off the brake peddle and then lets go even though I have the clutch peddle full depressed. I was told by the service department at my Subaru dealership that this is the way the "hill assist" feature is now supposed to work. On my 98 Legacy, the hill holder held until I let up on the clutch peddle and made driving in hilly Cincinnati much easier. If the dealership is correct, then it makes the hill assist virtually useless. It just does not hold long enough. Does anyone else have any experience with this? Did the service people at my dealership know what they were talking about? Is there any adjustment that would make it hold longer? Thanks for any thoughts on this.

I took my Legacy to another mechanic today, one I have used a number of times in the past, not the one who recommended new axles. This mechanic, who has a history of taking the most expensive view on any issue that my cars present simply suggested that he replace the boots and that unless the cv joints were clicking that they should be fine. I decided to give it a try and hope by spending $300 now, I can postpone replacing the axles for another 95K. I will probably try just replacing the pads on the front brakes myself and hope that that works out. Thanks for the advice, I'm sure I'll be back for more. Fritz

Hi, Just found this board, looks like a great resource. I have a 98 Legacy L 5 speed manual with 95k on it. My mechanic tells me that the cv joint boots are torn and all the grease is gone and that I need to replace both front axles as a result. He also says that I need new front brakes including pads and rotors. He wants $220 to replace each axle = $440 and $300 to do the brakes with new rotors and pads. I've already had another mechanic replace the pads on the rear brakes, but have been told that I should also replace the rotors and pads together. Money is tight right now, so I'm thinking about tackling this myself. I used to do all my own work, replaced 2 or 3 clutches, rebuilt a transmission, rebuilt many sets of brakes (mostly drum brakes) and other fun stuff on other vehicles, but haven't done any serious auto repair work in about 15 years. I have a good basic set of tools that has gotten me through several of the jobs mentioned above. So the question is -- How hard are these as do it yourself jobs and what do I have to watch out for as I do them? Do I need any special tools? Thanks, Fritz Cincinnati