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I drove(TCU disconnected) it around my area without issue where before it would go into 3rd and just slip.

I didn' t do another drain and fill yet but here is what I have for codes - P0733, P0734- Gear 3 and Gear 4 incorrect ratio. I disconnected the TCU and the trans was stuck in 3rd as mentioned and the car went down the road fine - a little sluggish at the start - a bit of slipping. Easy on the gas and it was fine.

I will change again. Pan is not dented. I will check for codes. It will shift fine as mentioned and then when goes to 3rd, it will shift but will slip, tach revs and the trans is not moving the car forward. I will try the TCU as mentioned. Thanks for the quick response.

I've got a transmission that seems to shift fine until it hit 3rd, then it slips. When I bought the car it slipped in most gears, I drained the oil twice thinking they may of mixed the wrong oil in from the diff. After the second time it is much better but still slips as mentioned. So, drain and fill again or take it to a tranny shop to see if the can figure out if she's shot or if it is just a solenoid. Comments,suggestions? Thanks

I cleaned them and put fresh oil in and they all appear to be working normally... right now. Thanks

1996 2.5 DOHC - finishing the head work and decided to bench test the assembly before installing. Installed camshaft on intake side to ensure valve assembly all working. Found that one valve was not closing all the way. Checked the lifter and it would not compress at all. Disassemble and cleaned- compressing but I'm assuming it needs to be bled. What's the best process to bleed them after cleaning? With the year of the car, I'm hoping that cleaning will suffice but need to point out that this car had a broken exhaust valve. I'm assuming that if the lifters stick that there could be issues- no compression or interference? Thanks!

Thanks for all the info! Just curious about the block side of things. I pulled the head with the motor in the car. How is the surface prepped and what would you use to ensure that the surface is good to go to install the new gasket? Thanks!

Newbie on the valve stuff - looking for guidance. This car is a winter beater, so I would prefer to not spend a bunch and use it as a learning project. Take a look at the exhaust valves. They are full of carbon, not sure if they are worth lapping or just buy new and try to lap the seats? I bought Permatex lapping compound and there is mention of different grits to start and finish with. I'm assuming these can be purchase or not needed? The intake valvues look good. Also, recommended solvent to clean them? Thanks! Exhaust seat with some lapping: Intake: Exhuast valves - no lapping and some lapping:

I check the head surface for flatness - it is in spec <.002 . The head gaskets were replaced several years ago by the previous owner. There are some light marks from the previous gasket. Is there a need to resurface it? Do you guys suggest coating the new MLS with Permatex Copper spray? Thanks

Well, guess I'm gonna buy a valve, lap the valves/seats, news guide seals in and let er go. No comments on clean-up for the block side of things? Suggestions for getting the carbon build off? The valves and the top of the pistons look nasty. Thanks

Any idea if the valves in the (96-99)heads would be the same? I know I can pull them out and compare - just curious if anyone would know off the top. Also, what is the recommended prep on the block surface. I use a sharp havy duty razor blade perpendicular to the surface and scraped off the gasket residue and wiped with brake clean. Do I need to use scotch brite or something similar? Thanks

The reason I am doing this is the old heads from the 96 have bad valves - one burnt off or it is missing a chunk. No compression is the result. So, I have the 99 heads which were already machined, just trying to save some money. If I use the old head, I'm assuming it would need to get it machined plus have do the the valves. If I do the valves I'm assuming I would need to have the seats lapped or what ever they do to match the new valves? Any advice would be appreciated. Based on the two responses, I'm not sure if I should use the 99 head. Thanks!

Will the heads from a 1999 Legacy Anniversary Edition work on a 1996 Legacy Outback Wagon? They look the same but the plug wire port shape is different on the 99 so hence the question. Thanks

Just checked #3 and there is no compression. So valve not seating I'm assuming? Checked 1 and it is around 135, dry, cold engine, throttle closed. I just checked #1 because I couldn't believe that #3 was 0. I checked #3 twice now.

1996 2.5 DOHC The plug in 3 looked okay, a little darker color that the other 3- the engine uses a bit of oil. New NGK plugs and plug wires - still rough idle and code set Swapped fuel injectors from 1 to 3 - same issue Swapped injector wires on 1 and 3 - same issue I'm going to check the coil resistance - I doubt this is an issue. I'm going to check compression on 3. If the timing is off, how much effect would it have on compression and would this cause the misfire error? Suggestions? Thanks all!