patinabrat

You described my idle-stop solenoid exactly: Single wire and black rubber insulation. I thought the only point of the idle-stop solenoid was to cut off fuel to the carb when the key is off to prevent dieseling on hot days? I removed the innards of the solenoid and screwed it back on (no wire attached), but I will go and do what you recommend because I hate jury-rigged stuff. I really wish this part was not so hard to come by, though! It's the single-wire solenoid. I know they sell the double-wire on E-bay. Per your post, I believe I could easily disconnect the wire anyway because it just slips into a three-prong connector (where the electric choke and something else goes into as well). I have a carb rebuild kit. I think I'm going to attack this carb this weekend!

Interesting you say that because I actually had the choke off while running it due to damage. I had to drill out the mounting rivets just to remove it. Just got a new factory one, and just acquired some screws since I can't get a riveter in there. Should be good to go as far as installation soon. I wouldn't think a choke would make it run "smelly"? I just assumed it was in the "opened up all the way" zone (it's really hot here in Cali, like 90 degrees).

Plugged a single vacuum port and adjusted the idle speed screw and now it starts right up and idles on its own. Of course, anything within 50 feet of it would die of affixation from the fumes. But it's progress...

Full carb rebuild is in process. Got my can of Berryman's. I'll keep you lurkers posted.

Turns out the issue was the fuel pump. Old one failed bench test; new one didn't. Installed, and now it will squirt gas all the way to the carb where previously it wouldn't. But it won't start. If I put gas down the Hitachi carb, it will start right up until it runs out of gas. What would prevent the carb from processing gas from the line? The idle stop solenoid wire broke off RIGHT at the solenoid, so it's impossible to reconnect, and I know that this may affect it; HOWEVER, should I remove the plunger or keep it in in order for gas to flow? Reason being, I can't find a replacement anywhere. I also have the choke off, but seeing as how it will start right up when I pour gas down it, I doubt its that. Plus, it's very hot out (95F+).

Sorry to re-open a five-year-old thread, but I was just wondering where you got the part because I can't find it anywhere, at least not for an '82 Brat GL. I tried using the terminology "idle stop solenoid" because NO ONE lists an anti-diesel/anti-dieseling solenoid. Also, in case I can't find the part (only saw an "idle stop solenoid" for an '87 on E-bay), I was wondering how I can operate my vehicle without it. Just removing the plunger works, you say? So when the wire is "hot", does the plunger go in or out? It would seem I would have to find a way to keep the plunger in, not just gut the solenoid of it. Please help me from being confused! Thanks!

You're kidding..? That simple? I'm definitely going to try blowing out the fuel lines, and probably replacing the soft pieces altogether. Also, the clutch is routed improperly, near the spare tire, with a bunch of zip ties. Definitely can't wait till the shop manual gets here so I can route it properly. While I was under the pedals, noticed the brake pedal's return cable was one of those ball-bearing type chains you wear around your neck (well, at least the guys that wear Affliction shirts or huge V-necks do)! Grrr... How cheap can you get?

It's a 4-speed/dual-range. I sort of suspected this may have something to do with the clutch linkage because it seemed to begin rolling way too soon when I just slightly release the clutch (such as in first gear). I will definitely check that. And yeah, regardless, it's running rich anyway. I see a giant black knob on the side of the carb that reads "Rich/Lean" with indicator marks and it seems to be adjustable, but can't figure out how to turn it. Is the float adjustment the only real way? I will order a carb kit and new float regardless. Did not know about the second fuel filter. Thanks, will get that also.

Just bought an '82 Brat GL off E-bay. Don't know anything about the history of the car. Got manuals on the way. In the meantime, the car will start (gotta pump pedal a few times, then feather it until it warms up before it idles), but smells very rich. I attempt to drive it around the block and it hesitates and bogs and bucks violently. I have done the following: Changed the oil/filter New fuel filter New air filter New wiper blades and pins (lol) New battery (seems too small for tray, but then again, it's missing the hold-down bracket and tray may not be stock) I intend to: Rebuild/adjust Hitachi carb Change dizzy cap/rotor Change plugs/wires Check and set timing Replace the cat Seems various hoses may be disconnected and whatnot, maybe vacuum leaks. Really waiting on my two books to arrive (factory manual and How to Keep your Subaru Alive). Anything I can mess with otherwise? Any ideas are appreciated.

Hi, just bought an '82 Brat GL off E-bay. This is my first old-school Subaru. The owner overstated its condition, but I'm infatuated. The car idles rough, smells, and bucks and jumps when attempted to drive, as well as has decade-old expired tags. My goal is to make a CA-emissions passing, good running, lifted on/off-road beast to climb the dirt hills when my friends/coworkers and I go shooting. I don't know why I didn't hear about this board before, being a Baja owner and a member of another popular North-American site. Anyway, hello from Southern California! Wish me luck with my project since I have no knowledge of working on old-school Subies, only Mopars. "Pat in a Brat"