86GLScooby

Yeah, allthough I have an old 12 point 14mm 1/2 socket for the head bolts, I decided to pick up a new one anyway. I don't want to mess around with this. Hopefully I will get to them soon. The bolt out set I bought is from craftsman, it didn't have a price, so I took up to to get a price check and it was on sale, $9.99... gotta love that. Hope this works, I'm in town for the day and will try again tomorrow. So I can't spray anything like PB Blaster on these? Not even if I'm very carefull? Impact is not an option at this moment since I'm trying to do this job with engine in the car. So far so good, I'm working on the driver's side first and allthough it's tight, it will come out. Thanks, I hope this works.

Thanks for the replies, I did get the final stud out. It's propably better that the studs came out so I can replace them... make the job easier the next time. Hopefully only in a 100k or so.

Thanks... I went to sears and picked up a couple sockets and a bolt out kit that includes a size for 10mm, the one I had was for 3/8 and 9/16 and didn't really fit. On sale, yeah! They didn't have the E15 torx socket... so I got the bolt out set instead. Hope this works, I really don't want to cut the heads off.

This must be from the factory since the only job that was done, that I know of, was an oil pump leak. The crank seal is brown and the others are black, so that was done. I just don't get it and I'm about to give up. The previous owners only had it worked on by subaru... I have a thick stack of service and maintenace paper work. You never know though. Should I continue or sell the parts I got on ebay and buy a different car? Perhaps I can part out the car, not the engine though... what a bummer. I guess I shouldn't let these bolts stop me though, but how in the world will I get them out. I even tried my bolt grip tool and the head just gave away. Crazy right? The socket breaking, yeah it could have been a cheap socket, but the head of the bolt giving out before the bolt comes loose, on the camshaft brackets, wtf? I need to vent, sorry.

One thing after the other right... I'm trying to get the camshaft cap bolts loose, but it's stripping the heads. Tried 4 and not one budged, broke the socket trying to get them off. Got the front ones off easy, but the middle and back ones are a pain. They shouldn't be that tight. Can I spray them with PB Blaster or not? Not sure if you want that stuff in there and if that would even help. I could put my bolt grips on it and either get it out or break it, but I was hoping there might be a better solution. This is on a 97 Legacy GT, 2.5.

Got to the valves today and tested them with a feeler gauge, they seemed pretty good and since I'm running out of money I plan on leaving them as they are. Exhaust ones are the ones to look out for I read and they seem good as they are. Unless I'm testing them wrong, do you go up in gauge size untill it doesn't slide freely? Perhaps with a little resistance? Pulled my thermostat and did the boiling test... it popped right open some time before boiling temp was reached, I turned off the stove before it started to boil. How do you know if it's all the way open, mine was just under a 1/4" open? I'm battling with one of the studs under the heads... those are really rusted and all of them turned out of the heads. I soaked them periodically with PB Blaster for 3 days and no budge. This car was originally up north somewhere, so no wander... I have to order some more parts, the studs, thermostat seal and one of the hoses that came of the radiator for the ATF. Hopefully my local guy can get it within the week otherwize it's a 5 day ship from 1stsubaru.com. Is there any precuations I need to take when I leave this job for 3 -5 days? Wrap the block with plastic to keep it clean or something? Nothing will dry up in there and cause problems? By the way, it was the waterpump that gave out on the car... it rotates the opposite way that it needs to, but gets stuck the right way. Thanks and I appologize for my noob questions... can't wait to finish this up, but all in good time.

I thought about the ole plumbers trick, if it's stuck heat it up... but I wasn't sure about that with all the flamable fluid around. I don't mind buying new studs if I can just get this last one out. I would assume they break easier when heated?

Thought I got one off, but it actually unscrewed from the head... Got 3 off out of the head and 3 stripped... 50% success rate. But it's still a fail. Update, got 5 out and one is totally stripped... need the bolt out tool. Welcome to the club?

This thing is a beast... I've been spraying the exhuast bolts under the heads with PB Blaster for 3 days now and they still won't come off. Any advice? Bottom of the bolts are realy rusty. Put my breaker bar on it and I can see that they are stripping, but I don't want to over do it... seems like a bad design, why don't they use bolts? (becuase the head is aluminum) Tried tightening them a little and then loosen, nothing. Researched and found the helicoil method and some others... really? Do I cut the studs off if I can't get the nuts loose or what?

Don't kick me in the nuts... I actually realized that I typed that after I had my coffee and edited it after getting back from autozone... can't believe I typed that... you just put some motor oil on the head bolts. As for taking my time... yes, I'm on day 5 and I'm just getting to the head gaskets. Bagging and tagging everything as I go along. Learning the hard way on some stuff, but that's okay. This is take forever though... can't wait to be done, but I'll take my time. Now, the water pump gasket, this is from subaru, for some reason it doesn't lie flat of the ground like it's warped or something. I don't know if it's defective or what, but I think I'll put some sealant on that one perhaps. Or use the bent up cardboard one that came with the pump... lol, no I won't do that. I have the tork info, so that should be okay... aspecially the head gasket sequence. Thanks for your comments and I won't put anyting on the subaru head gaskets... as for the other stuff I'll follow the manual. I appreciate your comments, thanks.

Hi, I disassembled my motor and I'll putting in the new head gaskets soon. It's on a '97 Legacy GT 2.5 motor. Anaerobic seal, copper spray or nothing? What do you guys do and what do you recommend? I got the following sealers, all permatex: Ultra Grey - intake manifold, little bit on the valve covers and cam brackets, thermostat housing, anywhere else? Water Pump RTV silicone - for the water pump gasket, I bought a subaru gasket - I read to use the ultra grey though, not sure which one to use yet. Blue Threadlocker - cam bracket bolts or just some motor oil?, cam cover bolts, just about all the bolts except the head bolts. This is my first major engine repair job, so all input is appreciated. Thanks.

Took some pics this morning... would appreciate some comments. I'll mark it as it is but would like advise at to what to line up when reinstalling. Thanks. Cams lined up on right side... Seems to be a tooth off on left side...

No, that's the old belt and idlers... I have new ones to replace those. They look terrible don't they. I'll make sure to get everything cleaned up before I install the new belt and not let any oil touch the new one. Since you guys didn't comment on the belt being almost half way off the idler I guess that is okay. I hope the new one stays in place though. The car is in time, I drove it yesterday to move it over to the work area.., but with the timing marks lined up on the passenger side it seems to be off one tooth on the driver's side. Should I remark that location for when I put it back on or should I put it on the original marks? Not sure why it's not lined up. The belt has been taken off one other time that I know of, by subaru to do something to the oil pump. I'll take some pics of it in the morning. I appreciate your input... thx

Ha ha, I've been following the guide to replace the timing belt and now that I switch over to the head gasket guide it tells me to relieve the fuel pressure... now that I can't start the car as is. Should I get it back to a point where I can do that or just continue? That's unfortunate, I should have studied the procedure a little better.

What a struggle to get the crank shaft bolt off... wow. I have it to the point where I can rotate the crank shaft to line up the timing marks and it seems like the driver side is off by a tooth. The belt is allmost half way off the bottom pullies and the middle cover shows it with a line burt out where the belt ran into the cover. I'll try to take some pictures, but from an amatuer prospective, this looks bad... good timing to do this job. lol I'm trying to find the TDC for # 1 and the pressure gauge is showing pressure each time around... maybe I'm doing something wrong. I don't have the specialty tools, but can make what is needed. Any advice would be appreciated. I read on another post that once you find the TDC you can rotate the crank 15 degrees and the driver's side won't be loaded and no tools are needed. Just take off the belt... can anyone confirm this? Figured out how to post the pics... I'm really embarresed to post these by the way Thanks.

Hi, So far so good... I got all the parts in late last week and already have some more to pick up after starting the work today. Had a hard time with hose clamps and rusted bolts and a hose that wouldn't come off. This was to be expected... At the moment I have it ready to take on getting the crank pulley off in the morning. Question: This is an automatic transmission, do I keep the car in park while doing this job? Timing belt and head gaskets. Thanks.

Thank you so much for your replies

Thanks, I feel more and more confident doing this job. I'll add an oil pump o-ring and a water pump gasket to the list, as well as the sealant. Also I forgot to mention that I'll get the heads checked and surfaced if needed. Can they check for cracks too? Just wondering, I don't expect the heads to be cracked, but who knows? That would blow... I read it's a good idea to flush the radiator... can I just run water through it for a couple hours or something? Where's the best place to order from? Anyone give deals to USMB members that's better than the already well priced 1stsubaruparts.com? Thanks again and I'll post again when I'm doing the job...

Thanks for the reply... I'm doing a timing belt and water pump change (gates belt kit and bosch waterpump - $191 w/ free shipping). I don't mind spending $150 more and I was thinking of doing the following: Head gaskets (2) Valve cover gaskets (1 large and 2 small on each side correct?) Intake manifold gaskets (2, but has 2 on each one really) Exhaust gaskets (2) Camshaft oil seals (4) Crank shaft oil seal (1) + tighten bolts on oil pump Check valve shim clearances just to be on the safe side and replace upon inspection - perhaps Timing belt with new pullies, idlers, tentioner Water pump with gasket Test thermostat I'm sure I'm missing something - anything you can add that's cheap enough to do? One more thing that is confusing, in the haynes manual it doesn't mention much about special tools for doing the timing belt chage... doesn't seem right. If you line up the timing marks, do you not need the specialty tool (or use precaution) on the driver side camshaft gears? Excuse my lack of knowing exactly what to call all the parts. But those have tention and will spin and cause damage when the belt is taken off correct? Thanks, Kevin

I've been researching the head gasket job on my '97 Legacy GT for a few weeks now and I feel like I would like to do it myself since I don't have the money to have it repaired. I asked 1stsubaruparts.com the following: Hi, I'm doing a head gasket replacement on my '97 subaru legacy GT and so I'm buying the head gasket set, not fully knowing what all is included (if you have a parts list please email it to me). Do I need to get the valve cover seals? left and right? Anything else I'm missing? The reason for this email: I can't seem to find the Spark plug hole gaskets on the website, please email me the part number. I appreciate your help. Regards, Kevin Creedy. They responded with the following: (I added the notes indicating what they are with amounts needed) 11044AA610 :GSKT CYLINDER HEAD E110 - Head Gaskets (2) Part interchanges with part# 11044AA471 11051AA070 :PLUG CYLINDER HEAD 101 - Half Moon Gaskets (4) ? 13270AA062 :GASKET ROCKER COVER E118 - Valve Cover Gasket (1) Part interchanges with part# 13270AA061 13272AA063 :GSKT ROCKER COVER E118 - Valve Cover Gasket (1) 13293AA051 :GSKT ROCKER COVER NO 2 105 - Spark Plug Well Gasket (4) Part interchanges with part# 13293AA040 13271AA051 :WASH ROCKER CVR 105 - Washers/Gaskets for Valve Cover Bolts (12) Part interchanges with part# 13271AA050 14035AA281 :GSKT INTAKE MANIFOLD 105 - Intake Manifold Gasket (2) 44011AC030 :GASKET 112 - Exhaust Gastet (2) Now since the first item on there is the head gasket, it can either be the parts list in the overhaul set or these are the items I need. I'm not that familiar with the engine and don't know how many of each I would need on some of the items. Any help would be appreciated. What are the parts I need to do the job? Money is tight and I know I'll come across an item I'll have to replace, but is there such a thing as a bear minimum job on this? Thank you.

Thank you so much for your info. There should be a mandatory class one takes when buying a car so people know all this... I was planning on doing a trans flush and change out the rear diff fluid. I'm a noob, so excuse my lack of knowledge and knowing what everything is called. I've learned so much about my car over the past few weeks doing research on this forum and the legacygt forum. Thanks.

Thanks, I'll investigate further in the morning... I'll be able to get to where the car is. Funny, jokingly I was thinking that perhaps it's just a pipe that broke, lol. We'll see soon enough though. How long can these engines overheat before causing damage to the heads, ect.? I guess I should have them tested before doing all the work.

Just saw a '93 GL with 83k miles for sale, but it's an automatic they want $1200 for it, but it's with a dealer so it will be $1600 after paperwork... can't stand that.

Yeah, I like that quote... When I first pulled up and saw the soobie it was awesome, opening up the hood it seemed something I would be able to take on and enjoy. Perhaps it was the fresh smell of poison to kill the ants nesting in the car and the ripped up and worn down upholstery that was being a deterrent. The fact that they pulled out the CD player to save it, rather than letting it go with the car... perhaps they thought they might be able to get more for the player than the car. I'm just teasing, but I wasn't able to take her for a test run