rabidsqrl

Just a side note. I once had a piece of cinder get caught between the rotor and the sensor which broke off the tip of the ABS sensor. Light would not go off until the sensor was replaced. Mike :^)

I have a dilemma that I can’t figure out. If it has been posted somewhere else please redirect me to the postings. I have a rebuilt 2.5L Phase I engine in my 98 OBW. CCR Inc did a great job on the rebuild. Before I found out that I had crankwalk on my old engine I took the OBW to a couple of shops to see if they could get it running right. Come to find out one of the shops played with the TPS on the throttle body. Now here’s the problem. I live at altitude, 7000ft., and when I pull a hill I can here some pinging. When I go down off the mountain for meetings and pull away from a stop sign the pinging is almost unbearable. I’ll also get engine code of 301,302,303, and 304 (engine misfire). When I return to altitude, after a few days the CEL goes out and no more codes. Could this be a TPS problem? Altitude sensor problem. Timing problem. Any insights would be helpful. Thanks, Mike

Major grin factor this past weekend. 98 OBW is back on the road. The new CCRINC long block is purring like a kitten. Sounds and runs like the car is brand new! Looking for another 140,000 miles or more. Was a pleasent surprise to have the oil filter and new plugs already installed in the new bottom end. Thanks CCRINC you're great and 1stsubaruparts for the prompt service. Except for having to knock out the old alinment pin from the trans (couldn't figure out why the two wouldn't fit together) everything went as smooth as silk.

Reset your ECU by unhooking the positive battery cable for 30 minutes (I think). Then reconnect (may have to turn off the alarm if you have one once reconnected) and start the car letting it idle for 5 min. without touching the throttle. Turn off and restart again. If the light stays off you should be good to go. If not, you'll have to get the codes read.

Oops, next questions. Best way to "burp" the cooling system? Should I do the following as suggested or is there another way? I searched the forum didn't come up with a procedure. Maybe wrong search keywords. ------clip-------- It's essential that the 2.5 liter coolant crossover tube atop the engine be drilled and tapped. This allows user to add a small tube from there to the coolant reservoir. Any air inside the engine block then automatically purges. Proof of effective purging is that I can now drain all the coolant from the entire sys, then refill. Every drop can be refilled without hesitation. Before adding this air purge, I would end up with a few cups of fluid that I could not get back in to the system. Also, I now can't get the engine to gurgle after a hot shut down. ------clip-------- thanks

Got my new long block on Monday! Woo Hoo! Looks perdy too. Thanks CCRINC. Currently pulling out the old engine and getting the fly-wheel surfaced. A few more days and back on the road (fingers crossed). I'll remember the 125 torque spec too. mike

Just an update. I ordered my new long block from CCR yesterday Should have it by the time I get back from a small trip. Very easy and friendly process ordering the engine from CCR. Looking forward to more time driving my OBW. Using the waiting time to pull out the sick engine. Didn't know that another possible reason for the movement could have been the wrong torque on the crank pulley bolt after a timing belt change. 125ftlbs not 90ftlbs as stated in some manuals. Go figure.

It has 142,000 miles on it. Still a sound vehicle except for the engine problem and I own it with no more payments. I'll probably contact CCR and keep you all up to date on my progress. Like the car too much to dump it. mike

Try this post. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17980You are describing exactly what was happening to my car recently. I spent tons of money trying to fix my problem that I could of used to buy a new motor with. mike

That's what I thought. Yes it is a manual trans. I can actually use my hands to move the pulley in and out. No flex in the pulley. Makes sense that the ECU would go nuts too. Is there any way to adjust the endplay or is it all done with the thrust bearing in the case? I pulled the crank pulley and it is starting to eat through the timing belt cover on the back side. New engine from CCR? Thanks.

Hi all, here's a good one for ya. I've been fighting with my 98 OBW for about 6 months now. Engine is the infamous 2.5L Phase I. It started with the exhaust smelling like raw gas and engine codes saying 301, 302... misfires. Every shop I took it to said that I had burnt valves. Pulled the engine and had both heads reworked and pressure tested. Put it all back together and the same problem came back . Poor accel, smelly exhaust, and check engine lights. Took it to the dealer that I do a lot of business with and asked them to give me a truthful diag of the situation. They said to just trade it in because they couldn't figure it out either. Not an option. So, back into the garage to do some more investigation. Checked the valve lash. Not bad but a few need adjusting. Now the kicker... I was poking around with an pry bar (gingerly) to see if anything was loose and found that if I put it behind the crank pulley and gave it a slight push toward the back of the car the crank moved to the front of the car. Got a rough measurement and it looks like it is moving close to a 1/16th of an inch. I don't think this is good! Question is, is there an end play measurement on the crank like the old VW's or is the bottom end done? Thanks for the help.