brendanr279

The fuel filter was my first suspicion, as I replace these myself. But the connections are tight, and I don't smell much fuel around that area. I tried chasing the fuel line but didn't inspect too close. I'll take a closer look and tighten some clamps for good measure.

You may be right, but I don't think it's coming from there. The fuel smell seems to be concentrated behind the passenger side headlight, right by the air intake. I'll take a closer look though. Thanks.

Hey, guys. 2002 Forester S 2.5L, 150000 miles. Brief history: For about a year, on below-freezing-days I get a strong gas smell coming through the vents when I'm first running the car. My PO420 code has been on for quite some time now as well, probably about 9 months (I've reset it twice. Comes back on). I don't notice much issue with my fuel efficiency (about 25 mpg highway, 20 city), my power seems okay, kind of "clunky"/"hesitant" sometimes, but I chalk that up to an old automatic transmission. I don't notice any obvious fuel leaks, the smell seems concentrated towards the air intake though when I sniff around closely under the hood. I've covered my tailpipe and I feel pressure and also notice a pretty small exhaust leak at the downward end of the catalytic converter, no other exhaust leak, for what that's worth. So my questions are: Could a small fuel leak be causing my PO420? Where might this fuel smell be coming from if it's in the area of the air intake? And I guess third, does measuring the before and after temperature of the catalytic converter give a good enough diagnostic to tell me that I just need a new catalytic converter? Thanks for the help!

No. It's not really empty, and it's short-lived. Goes up on it's own when I pull over or restart the engine, and only happened with the few long distance drives I did this past weekend. I'm going to tinker a bit and monitor. I've replaced a fuel pump in an older Legacy, so it'll probably be real similar. Might not get to it until next week. I'll keep you posted. I appreciate the help. Thanks.

I'll double check my battery terminals just to be sure. But to check the gas tank floats, do you think I should just use a fuel cleaner additive first? Or should I actually look at the floats? Those are attached to fuel sending unit and I can get to it from the trunk/hatch right? Thanks

No electrical issues I can think of, but I did clean off my battery terminals a couple months ago. Used the baking soda paste method. Maybe it's the battery, is that what your suggesting?

Hi, guys. 2002 Forester S, 140k miles, automatic SITUATION: My fuel gauge just started intermittently, rapidly dropping from above a half tank to near E. I get freaked out, pull over, and it will go back up usually. There is an occasional, short-lived sputtering/hesitation of the engine (not sure if it's directly corresponding to these instances but makes me feel like the engine is going to quit). As well as the check engine light coming on during these times, but doesn't continuously stay on. I have not caught the check engine light to read the code yet. I'm also occasionally getting what I would call crappy MPG (20 mpg highway). These issues seem to only present with prolonged highway driving. BACKGROUND: I changed my downstream O2 sensor about a month ago, everything seemed to be fine with that. I changed my fuel filter about 2 months ago, as well as added some Seaphoam. During cold winter days I would get the smell of gas coming through the vents, but that doesn't happen above 20 degrees F and I was told I just need to tighten up some clamps (probably around the fuel filter i had recently changed) Any thoughts on whats causing the funky fuel gauge, etc? Or what I should do for assessment? Thanks.

I'll look into it... on a warm day. Thanks!

Hi, guys. 2002 Forester S, 140k miles. I bought this a couple months ago. I live in Maine so the days can be cold. I've been getting potent gas or exhaust smell coming through the vents on days that are maybe 15 degrees or below. My check engine light was on for the downstream O2 sensor, I replaced that hoping it would miraculously solve the issue. It hasn't. Check engine light is gone though. I don't see a frank gasoline or exhaust leak anywhere. And as I said, it only seems to happen on cold days. I notice it more at stops, but I assume that's because while driving it gets blown off by the wind. Any thoughts? Thanks, Brendan

Anybody?

Hi, guys. I have only very basic experience with multi-meters, and even less with car sensors. 2002 Forester S, OBD II code PO037, downstream O2 sensor. I located the sensor in the catalytic converter, unplugged the wiring harness, and I have a multi-meter. The multi-meter is set to the OHMS setting that does not have a number, it just has a strange symbol and "volume" type symbol. I think this is the generic OHMS setting, correct? There are four wires to the sensor, two gray, two white. I probed the both pairs of wires, gray to gray, white to white, and the multi-meter did not react for either pair. The multi-meter reacts when I touch it's two probes together, so I know it's working. Did I accurately test this O2 sensor? Does it mean it's faulty and needs to be replaced? Or what should I do differently to test it? Thanks.

So it's definitely the switch itself. But disassembly wasn't as easy as I hoped. The cables connecting all the adjusters are really interfering. How do you disconnect those? I can't see an easy way and the manuals don't get that specific.

I haven't tried that, but based on how hard I've tried moving this switch, I doubt it's a matter of something sticky getting in there. I'll try some cleaner anyway. I've tried moving it while pushing in, pulling out, twisting the knob a little, etc. It's not so much stuck on 4 as it is I can't get it to move to 3, 2, 1, or off, because I can move it that smidge to get the fan to turn off (thankfully). I'll try the cleaner, but any other suggestions out there?

Hi, guys. Sorry. I know this is a repeat topic but the info I've found is confusing me. I have a 2002 Forester S, just bought it used. The fan toggle bar-switch has not been sliding smoothly from the get go. Now it's stuck in the high position, blowing air at high, not able to move the switch back down to 3, 2, 1, or off. Another symptom, I'm able to move the switch towards 3, but not all the way to 3, and the fan will stop. Since I'm not able to even move the switch between positions, does that mean it's a problem with the switch, and not the resistor? Or would a resistor malfunction cause the switch to stay stuck in position 4? ...and how do I fix this? I'm buying the repair manual this weekend. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm definitely just cutting the bad section out and splicing in a new section.

Hey guys. I've got a puncture in my fuel hose connecting to the nipple that comes out of the fuel tank/pump. I have a 1992 legacy L wagon 2wd. There isn't enough slack in the line to cut it and reattach. I've got the manual out and it looks like the hose is only a foot or so long and then connects to metal line. My question is do you know if I have to drop the tank connect this hose? It doesn't seem like its very possible to access it through the hole where the fuel pump assembly is. I might just splice in a short line enough to get me to the pump where I can access easily. Kinda ghetto but I don't see why it would be that bad.

Apparently I need a fuel tank sending unit. I was told the lower portion of the plastic plug assembly through the tank cover is fried and melted and I need to find the whole assembly to fix it (pump, float gauge, tank cover, etc) Any thoughts on this? Is this necessary? Anyone know where I can find one? I wish it weren't 0 degrees out, a weekend, and two feet of snow on the ground or I'd hit a junk yard.

I installed an aftermarket pump 4 years ago, worked fine up until recently. Put a new aftermarket pump in the other day, lifetime warranty, so I can imagine the manufacturer has faith in their product. What are the chances a pump would go after 1 day? And if that's the case, what caused it to happen is the big question.

92 legacy L 2.2L FWD

It may be coincidental, but I feel it's been doing this when I've parked the car on uphills. But a couple times I has not been very uphill at all.

Hey, guys. Problem: My car is not starting, not getting fuel. Replaced the relay, and fuel pump yesterday. Worked for last night and errands this morning, now it's not starting again. History: I recently ran my tank pretty low, parked on a uphill, and the car wouldn't start. Next day I figured frozen fuel lines (It's Maine winter), put some of the "light's water on fire" fuel treatment in the tank along with a few gallons, and the car eventually started after a few hours. One week later, car won't start for 5 minutes, then starts up. About another week later, now this past week, the car won't start again and replaced a fuel pump relay, checked the terminal plug at the fuel pump with a multimeter (no power, though my multimeter skills may not be adequate). Tried plugging in a new fuel pump too, did not submerge in the tank, the pump didn't turn over when I turned the key to accessory. I had it towed to a shop. They said the terminal is getting power, they replaced the fuel pump yesterday, and it worked fine for last night and this morning, now the car isn't starting again. What's going? Chafed wire? Something frozen up?

Update on the situation... I've tried starting it with the gas pedal held to the floor. It won't start easy, pumping the gas definitely helps it start easier. And I was wrong, I can smell a bit of fuel now that you mention it. It's not very strong though and it goes away. Another thing i forgot to mention is that once it gets started, the first time I need the car to move (unless its been thoroughly warmed up) it will lack power, then lurch for maybe the first 25-30 feet of driving. then It works itself out and is fine.

I don't smell fuel, and I'm pretty sure at times I do try to start it "clear flood" mode and it doesn't seem to start much easier. I'm not sure what code it's giving. Last spring when I had it at the shop they said it was the IACV, they tried to order the part used but couldn't, so they said they cleaned it instead. Still didn't start well.

I'll start by saying I really appreciate the help all you folks give on this forum... Here we go... Again. 92 Legacy L, 2.2 L. 75000 miles. My car has been starting hard for a couple years now, progressively getting worse. At first it was only in cold temps, now it's been happening all summer, and starting harder since the cold is setting in. If the car has been sitting overnight or 8+ hours or so, when I go to start it, it immediately putters out until the 3rd or 4th attempt, and only with me pumping or pressing the gas pedal. Once it's had that first bit of a start up, it'll start no problem, no gas pedal needed, until it sits for a while again. Check engine light has been on for a while. I cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve once with carb cleaner, just spraying into the opening and letting it drain, repeating once or twice. I didn't unscrew the top of the valve cover though and really get into it. That didn't fix it. I bought a used IACV on ebay, cleaned it the same way, still having the same problem. The hoses attaching to the IAVC all appear in good working condition. The car runs normal once it's started, the idle level is fine, with no "searching". I've used some fuel injector cleaner occasionally. I change my fuel filter regularly. I don't notice any loss of power at any point once it's running. What's the deal??

I just bled the brakes, depressing the clutch, all 4 wheels, diagonal method. Only drove it down the road and back, but it seems to be much stiffer than when I first replaced the calipers. Hopefully it stays that way. Thanks guys.