CFK

Stated in NASIOC Thread : How should a catch can be installed? There are a variety of ways to install a catch can. There's one right way, two sort-of right ways, and some would argue that at least one common installation method which is wrong. Sort of right ways: 1) Disconnect the hose which runs between the PCV valve and the turbo inlet pipe. Run a line from the PCV to the catch can, and another line from the catch can to the turbo inlet hose. 2) Disconnect the hose running between the crank case breather lines and the turbo inlet pipe. Run new hose between the breather line and the catch can and another hose between the can and the inlet pipe. Right way: Use two catch cans. Configure one as discussed in option one and the other as described in option 2. For optimal effectiveness, this is the way to go. Wrong way: Disconnect the PCV<->Inlet line as well as the Crank Vent<->Inlet line. "T" the PCV and Crank vent lines together, and run the remaining end of the "T" to a single nipple on the inlet pipe. Cap the remaining nipple on the inlet. You'll be sending boost into places that definitely shouldn't ever see any. Bad idea. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=754710 Legacy777 (Josh) seems to have it set-up just right and I think I will be running it exactly the way he did . http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=39620

I like your attitude Awesome, Thanks. Very good explanation. Yesterday I got impatient and ended up just ordering 2 cheap Ebay ones cause I worked it out and it ended up being cheaper by the time you buy a decent can of somesort and fitting + time etc. I will definitely be filling it with a mesh and baffle. The one thing im confused about now is finding what I thought was a right answer and then someone else stating that it was wrong I know right, I thought the Interwebz would never lie to me............... So what I was going to do was run the crankcase vent into the CC, then T the outlet and run separate lines back to the PCV valve and intake tract. Then a seperate can for the heads, T'd in, then back out to the inlet. A DIY thread on NASIOC stated that each of the crankcase vent and PVC valve should be run to separate Catch can's. I know the crankcase vent being the most crucial and another for the heads might be a little overkill, but I have no idea why you would want to run separate one for the PVC valve and crankcase ?

I will be doing this on a EJ22T which seems to be different than most since it has an extra set of Valve Cover ports which T into the block, otherwise most likely the same. Sounds like some people are just venting to atmosphere and blocking the PCV Valve and running all 3 vents into the Catch Can. http://bbs.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/709078-oil-catch-tanks.html#post8098950 Obviously not to emissions compliant, but I was under the impression that you want to keep your crankcase under a slight vacuum when under low loads, venting to atmosphere would not allow this. Or I have seen some run everything into the catch can and I believe you would end up pressurizing the valve covers under heavy load :-\ If someone would clarify this before I go ahead and do something :banana: or just plain go zzz. That would be great.

Does anyone have any experiences in trying the breather type ? Definitely harder to find a 3 Port type : http://www.rexnet.com.au/forum/index.php?/topic/63773-diy-hyperflow-catch-can-install/ They don't even have a 3-port listed anymore, 2 or 4. & $$$$ http://www.hyperflow.com.au/index.php?widget=products&section=-oil-catch-can-occ&id=hyocc-my04v2k

Actual ? now, Long story later............... What is the best Catch Can / Oil Seperator set-up :?: ( Especially for the Turbo models due to excess blow-by) Options: 1: A single 3-port Catch can 2: 2 separate Catch cans ( 1 for the VC's, 1 for the PVC system ) 3: An actual Oil Separator ( Returns oil to crankcase ) And when I say "best", option 3 is probably, but is also the most expensive. So lets just lay out the options and decide which is "best" for you :smt045 Oil Separators: http://store.crawfordperformance.com/store/products/510 http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=91&products_id=191 http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/85474/10002/-1 3 port: 2 port: DIY: http://www.aaronreedbaker.com/oil.html Long Story ( OPTIONAL ) So after seeing some of the sludge through the intake during my TMIC install I decided that a Oil Catch Can was in order. During my internet research and part searching I discovered that finding a cheap decent set-up was definitely a challenge. Especially with the PVC system on the EJ22T being somewhat complicated. So I figured I would just find 2 CC's locally and be done with it. At the local performance parts store they found me a cheap Moroso catch can for $40, he said it was a sealed type so I headed on down there to pick it up. Turns out he was originally looking at a coolant overflow with a single inlet up top and re-circ port on the bottom. So he then brought another one which had one inlet port and a place to drill another since it was made from urethane, the problem being is that it was a vented unit. http://www.shop.speedunlimited.com/p-4618-moroso-85402-breather-tank-black-plastic-10-an.aspx After bringing it home I decided to do a little more research and discovered that it probably wasn't the best unit to install due to it creating more blow-by and probably not emissions friendly. Don't be afraid to post some pics of your own set-ups :!: I Started this same thread on Legacy Central but aren't getting any immediate responses due to small amount of BC owners. Might as well start one here since it really would apply to all Subies. Thanks.

It was off the passenger side TB cover. I wonder where the rest of them went ? or if there was any to begin with ?

Ya , at first I thought it was from up top until I got there, whoops. As long as I can put it back on without removing the TB. Hope so. oh, well, won't take to long......................... I just wish I had all the correct parts, seals and O-ring instead of having to run and get a different thing everyday. Next thing you know it's a week later and I can't remember where everything goes Thanks for everybody's help. This is a great site with much knowledge. Reid.

Thats what I thought, so I painted it. It's 2"x8". Then, I couldn't figure it out, searched for a few pictures, I knew I was missing the one around the compressor. Not sure.

Bad News , Useless.............. I hope:-\

Ya, I fired it up. Only for a few more seconds than I should of since I realized I had drained the oil last friday !!! Got a little to eager to fire her up. Other than that Im gonna celebrate with a few cold ones There is this one bracket that left over ( don't ya love that ) that I thought was for the alternator, but I think it's from around the cam housing ? I really hope it didn't sandwich between the block and housing or something stupid like that. On second thought maybe I won't be getting any sleep I'll load to flickr...................................

Well, now that I got that confusion sorted it was extremely easy to put the rest back together. Only 1 more ? I couldn't remember ever taking off a timing belt guide, don't think I lost one. Are those only on the later or 2.5 motors ? Thanks. Reid.

I know they can only go on one way , but what im saying if that the previous owner used the arrow on the front of the crank sprocket to align it with the oil pump instead of the proper hash mark and they thought that was TDC and made there own marks on the cam and crank pulleys. Wrong Therefore confusing the *************** out off me, now that I realigned all of the proper factory markings the cam pulley sits aligned just fine. So basically I shouldn't have gone off marks that someone had previously made and just re-set them to the factory marks

So just line that one up on the crank sprocket to oil pump mark, then what about the cam pulleys ? I just slid the crankshaft sprocket back on keeping in mind that I have not moved the crankshaft since removing the belt and somebody previously had used the arrow on the front and aligned it with the hash on the oil pump. I guess that would explain somebody making there own scribe and notch marks on the cam and crankshaft pulleys, since the factory marks weren't used ?

Hi, Engine is a EJ22T so at least it's not an interference motor. And when I said right side, I meant passenger side since the manual describes the motor as if your inside the vehicle , as well as the cam pulleys are marked that way. I am using the rear cover notches and the marks I made when I aligned TDC with the crank before removing the belt ( which are not the factory scribes on the front, those lines were off TDC )

Oh, and before I started the work I did a Compression test and on cylinders 1&3 it was 142 PSI and the plugs had a oilly/gas like mixture on them. 2&4 had 148 PSI and were clean & dry. Haynes said the specs should be between 142-170 PSI. A worn cam lobe ? I can't believe you have to remove the head to take out the camshaft. I assume you can remove the VC & rocker assembly to inspect the camshaft ? Im just staring at this thing not knowing what to do, replying to my own thread, LOL. PLEASE HELP !!! These rocker arms are scaring me and now I really want DOHC heads To bad the heads would probably be worth more than the car.

Hi, just got the car and decided to replace the cam, oil pump seals, TB, WP, idler bearings & Tensioner pulley. Aligned timing marks before disassembly and as soon as I removed the TB, the right camshaft sprocket turned clockwise out of alignment. It easily can be hand turned 40 degrees in the same direction (CW) that it went out of alignment, till pressure starts building, but when turned back the other way (CCW) to set it to the mark it just springs back the same way (CW). Is this normal and if so how do I align it. Never worked on an engine with rocker arms before Posted this on Legacy central but got no responses, so I just registered here and hope to get some help. Thanks in advance !!! _________________ This question is answered in this very thread. Keep your head on a swivel. Someone is gonna slap you with the Search Stick. 92 LSST. 84 Jetta Coupe. 99 A4 Avant.