SubaruGL
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Posts posted by SubaruGL
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I was at a friends auto machine shop last week. Some young guy had dropped his ej20t engine off for repair because it had developed a "ticking noise".
The engine had been torn down to the short block with nothing apparent to cause the "ticking noise" - until they pulled the oil pan. #4 rod bearing had been destroyed - there were all kinds of metal flakes in the oil filter when they cut it open.
So I get asked for a 14mm allen wrench & a piston pin puller for Subaru. Didn't expect that the turbo pins would be so heavy with small through holes like this one. The holes are about 8mm leaving little to grip because of the taper on in insides.
Somewhere I seem to remembered reading about using concrete anchors with a slide hammer to pull the pins. Home Depot carries Hilti 5/16" x 3 1/2" anchors with 1/4-20 threaded studs in the center. Body dent slide hammer tool from local auto parts had a 1/4-20 adapter in the package.
Had to grind down the head of the center stud to slip freely though the piston pin & thin the expanding shell to get a snug fit inside. Gently tap the modified anchor into the piston pin, grab the anchor shell with pliers, tighten down the 1/4-20 nut until about 1/4" of thread is exposed, screw on the slide hammer & a few light taps pull the piston pin.
The piston pins had been hammering the pin clips, raising a ridge inside the piston pin bores.
A bag of five 5/16 Hilti anchors - $3.56 w/tax.
Wow good to know. I'm tearing down an EA82 and am stuck on the piston pins now. Any chance you have a photo? I have some threaded rod, and also an autobody dent puller I have been trying with the thick wire with a hook bent at the end and can't budge it.
If I didn't think the pin was hardened steel I thought about trying to tape it to match my dent puller.
EDIT: Found what i was looking for... thanks for the great info!
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Well finally decided to make time and split the engine and try to sort things out. Got a chance to rearrange my shop (porch), and got to removing the heads. Damn the coolant passages were a mess. I don't own an impact gun so couldn't get the bellhousing shroud off to try and crack the engine this past weekend.
So far I all I found wrong was 2 of the lifters seemed to be seized. I just labeled the parts, cleaned the block some, and straightened up. Hope to get the engine apart this week and have a friend look at the innards by the weekend. My money is still on one of the crank bearings.
Its getting cleaner and ready to explore. Not sure if I'm polishing it or just paint... I figure to spend this kind of money it should look pretty too
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well.....glad to hear your gonna plow through this. If you need further assistance gathering parts, I have discovered that I love going to the salvage yard and will help you get other parts. Good luck SubaruGL!
Thanks Robcor! I'm excited about this project and glad you enjoy that! I'm sure I'll take you up on that! I used to be able to roam salvage yards for hours in New England thinking of ways to adapt things to do what I wanted
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I'm back
Forgive my questions, I just am trying to wrap my head around this swap. I am trying to figure this out the best I can using a 1989 FSM and a guide written about swapping a carb for a SPFI setup. I have an '87 that would be getting an MPFI setup from an '85.....
need:
Dual port heads check; ECU and harness check; Intake check; Fuel pump check; Distributor check; Coil check; Airflow sensor check; Y-pipe with 02 sensor (any exhaust shop can add a O2 bung) exhaust shop
This seems straight forward enough. I also know I need to buy a upgraded fuel pump and fabricate a bracket. As far as the connections inside the car, there aren't any other items I won't have plugs for? Ignition or fuel pump relays? The SPFI document mentioned them, but I'm not sure if mine will be the same as this system until I see it. Maybe someone with more familiarity with these systems can chime in?
And, if the MPFI is early, flapper type....he'll need the Knock control unit too.If it's a later MPFI, he'll need the Dropping Resistor for the Injectors.
...
I've been able to find that some MPFI systems have knock sensors, they are not cheap. But it also sounds like they are often only on turbo models, which neither the donor or my car is.
I can't identify the type of MPFI system this is, any help?
If its a later MPFI (maybe swapped into the '85 at some point?), where would be the dropping resistor? Are they on the injectors/intake whereas I would have them already? The harness doesn't seem to have knock sensor plugs.
Many thanks everyone!
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That's really impressive work! Loved seeing all those different angles of the engine! Thanks for sharing Miles.
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hitachi's get a bad rap.
It's really a SUPER simple carb. there is ONE little ball, that goes in the bottom of the accelerator pump, but otherwise nothing to lose. Pull it apart, clean it, and put it back in. You can actually leave it on the manifold, in the car and do all that's needed (unless the baseplate is leaking)
rebuild kits cost $20 bucks.
I rebuilt one yesterday in about an hour and the car then ran like a top, lot's of power.
If you really are trying to save money....that's the cheapest way.
Well that's good to know! Thanks again... I hate all the hoses but every post on here seems to slam the Hitachi.
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The point of this was to try and keep costs to a minimum, improve the reliability, and get rid of the Hitachi
From research I'm guessing this is the flapper-style MPFI, and not the updated kind with the square box on top, correct? Is this going to cause me more of a headache down the road I guess is my thought.I don't want to jump in with a hijack but I have just done the SPFI conversion on an old EA81 and now I am most of the way through the harness on an EJ22 swap. Both of these require a LOT of wiring, figure 3-4 hours per harness from someone that has done it before or 10+ hours with diagrams if you haven't.On an EA81 I would say it MIGHT be worth the trouble - not sure I would do it again. The EJ swap really is the way to go IMHO. I have never touched an EA82 so I can't really help there. I understand there are at least two styles of EA82 heads MPFI with two intake ports and SPFI with only one intake port (can't do MPFI with these heads)
Good info thanks Crazy8's... Wiring isn't the part that scares me believe it or not
Its the engine stuff I'm not as experienced with. If I do this MPFI swap I'll have the benefit of the harness made for an ea82, and the appropriate heads.You could also keep it simple and put on a Weber with a conversion plate.Good Luck
That was my original plan for sure. The Hitachi will not go back on
Here is a guy who took the CIS-e injection from a volkswagen and installed it on his ea82. He did put on mpfi heads and added a high pressure fuel pump under the hood. you could always do what this guy did using the carbed manifold with custom injector boses in the intake manifold. I'm sure you could even use a jumper harness and fuel injection from another car with similar sized engine.here's the link.
Cool, thank you. Looks neat but I definitely could not handle that, not without resourcing a lot of help
I don't have the customizing/fabrication experience or tools. With the Weber/MPFI/EJ options I have the benefit of good documentation and availability of adaptor plates made by others -
Thanks for checking/asking robcor, and for the response gloyale. I am the one interested
The main reason is for a little more reliability and to get rid of the hitachi. (A weber is going to cost me over $300 for the carb kit, and its still a carb.) The engine is coming out to replace the bearing and possibly crank if it is damaged and I can locate one. While I would totally love to do an EJ swap, I would have to source once from somewhere up north, have them ship it, and then find all the extras elsewhere, all without ever being able to see the engine. There just aren't salvage yards down here much that are worthwhile, and very few Subies
As for the type of MPFI system it is, its from an '85 so I'm guessing its a flapper style. I've read they are hard to get parts for. I had no idea I needed the knock sensor. hmmm this is getting confusing. I just want this car to live again... gonna have to figure this out.
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The engine is coming out. I'm pretty confident it is a crank bearing for cylinder #1. Won't know for certain until it is out and apart, but I was able to manually turn the engine over and fight compression
Until I got to cylinder 1. There was an area of reduced force.I also was able to apply pressure to each of the nuts, and only found movement in that one from my video (cylinder 1).
I still can't believe I found no metal like had been suggested I would. But should be interesting when I get it apart. I'm hoping if no damage has been done I might be able to just rebuild the bottom end.
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Bad news.Connecting rod bearing is gone.That will make some noise.
Be prepared to spend some money to fix it.
Well not good news but I see what you mean now. So strange, never saw any metal or chunks. I guess the bearing could still be in there or the crank is messed up. Guess I will find out... SLOWLY :/
Thanks for the diagnosis naru
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Thanks deener and Shawn!
What I did today... So my oil tube wouldn't budge. Gave it a good cleaning with kerosene:
Went in with my screwdriver, into the right side, front cylinder, to the inside of the engine and found play in this screw. Sorry for being naive, but any help identifying this as normal or "bad news" (if your bandwidth allows) would be great!
Video: http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc328/hondaspeedx/87%20Subaru%20GL/b6d00d9c.mp4
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those things can be TIGHT! i've seen some that didn't seem like they'd come out without breaking something, i've just left them in place mostly. and i've always seen the oring at the top as well.
Great thanks GG!
Mine looks almost "glued" in with black Permatex or something but I'll look closer. If it won't budge safely I'll just clean in place.
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I did find out the whole tube is removable with a little force (held in by o-ring) once you remove that bolt. Guess I was afraid to give it enough force without checking in first. Will try in the next day or two.
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Is there a trick to remove the screen or sump/pump arm or do I just clean it I. Place? Removing the support's 10mm bolt at the top of picture didn't seem to help.
Got the pain off with a fight... This crap is what I found:
Thanks in advance everyone!
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Pulled the cam gears and cam seal holders... Happily oil present on both passenger side (where the noise was) and drivers side. Saw some wear on both (photos follow), but assume it's normal since both sides are pretty much even?
Passenger side:
http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc328/hondaspeedx/87%20Subaru%20GL/cdbee7cc.jpg
http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc328/hondaspeedx/87%20Subaru%20GL/5935d0b5.jpg
Drivers side:
http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc328/hondaspeedx/87%20Subaru%20GL/ec44ba37.jpg
http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc328/hondaspeedx/87%20Subaru%20GL/1e036092.jpg
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Yes and welcome to the board. I do beleive Im not that far from you. We can meet sometime and check ouit our subies when you get yours mobile. Looks sweet. Im in West Palm Beach... Look me up sometime soon.
Great I look forward to it! I'm in Ft. Lauderdale but work some days up in Deerfield and also in Boca!
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Wow that rocks gokoolab! Giving me motivation to get my engine working and jack her up
I'm going to likely do the flat white, IDK or olive green LOL But yours is sweet and really clean! 
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and hes going the other way, lower lol.
Can't wait to see that rugby! Living in Florida I was tempted, mostly because everyone down here thinks its cool to put 26" rims under a 6 cylinder impala *shudders*... but I have my type-s, I can lower that a bit, the Subaru needs to go higher with a 2" exhaust and cherry bomb just to keep the neighbors looking LOL
Miles... hate the neighbor thing too... :S
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ebay has EA82 timing belt kits for really cheap - you get all new pulleys and belts for like $60-$80. well worth it over replacing parts one at a time and leaving other 20+ year old pulleys in there with no grease in them.
i imagine you're resealing the entire oil pump, that mickey mouse gasket is too warn to reuse. i don't see the other EA82 oil pump oring, was it there? EA82's have the mickey mouse gasket, front oil pump shaft seal (under the sprocket and 12mm bolt on the front nose), and an oring. i mean my dial up (no high speed available here) would only load a small portion of the picture so maybe I missed it?
Oh sorry I should maybe size the photos down :/ but yes I just put on the timing belt kit 4 miles ago that was recommended to me off ebay and worked well. It just did not have anything to tend to the sprocket gear down in the lower right corner (looking at the friend of the engine).
Yes I'm going to service the oil pump gear, the mickey mouse gasket was in surprisingly good shape, although a little flattened I think I would be able to reuse it. But I order the 3-ring set from beck/arnley. The thing I showed the picture of on the oil pump was the wheel that turns the gear on the inside of the pump had caused some marring on the inside of the oil pump casing. Maybe the new gaskets will fix that.
Here is a reduced version of the picture above showing the marring and old mickey mouse gasket if you want to see:
Figuring I'll give the pump some good cleaning with kerosene and make sure all orifices I can go to are clear, as I will try to do to the best of my ability within the oil pan, pickup, and screen
Thanks for info too grossgary!
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Barely got anytime in today but I fixed the houses and pulled the timing belts, tensioners, flywheel and water pump pulley.
Then I pulled the oil filter (possible small silver flecks barely seen) and oil pump (the screws did not seem torqued down much at all!). The "mickey mouse" gasket seemed in good shape, a little flattened. The oil that came out was a bit thin and light brown, but nothing like the mess before. Then I noticed the inside of the inner oil pump gear had rubbed some against the housing. It looked pretty fresh but hard to tell as it has been living in oil. On the mating surface of the block, I see a few black marks, I'm assuming maybe from burned oil?
Tomorrow I hope to jack the engine/trans up a bit and pull the pan. I did notice oil residue around the exhaust port outlets. It looks like it would have come out of the ports (the heat shields are quite clean), but that's hard to say I guess. I also want to pull the cam gears and cam seals and see if I can note any excess play in them.
Oil pump out:
Gasket not bad, marring of inside of the pump from inside edge of the inner gear:
Oil not the worst I've seen, maybe some water in it or a tiny bit thin... noted light brown color:
This gear on the front of the corner of the oil pan that the timing belt rides on has a seal in back that is notably out and worn. The gear functions ok, but does anyone know what that gear is called? My timing belt kit never came with a replacement and I would like to get one.
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Think I got it routed correctly. Thanks everyone for your replies!
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I'm in Jacksonville.
Hey nice to meet man!
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The green valve is a solenoid valve - either EGR or EVAP purge solenoid.... route it accordingly. Neither are critical and you could just eliminate it and cap the components it goes to. You can run a new vacuum line from late-ported vacuum directly to the EGR valve so it will function for emissions testing. Everything else is superflous except the PCV system. Best thing you can do is install a Weber and route the PCV correctly. I have a number of threads where I have posted the correct routing including pictures.
GD
Thanks GD.
Trust me I've learned a lot from your posts and thank you. No emissions in Florida luckily.. just looking to keep this as simplified as possible. Weber will definitely be on the list after I find out I don't need to rebuild the engine, or after I actually do rebuild it.
On a side note, just encountered recently... finally invested in a set of tap and dies.... your advise on chasing the threads for my intake manifold gasket job was priceless also
Thanks again. -
Looks to me like it could be part of your PCV system for crankcase breathing? Possibly a vacuum hose, but looks a little small... Sorry not much more help but that's where I would start..
Thanks... it definitely had the one hose attached, but the other nipple is a little too suspiciously clean to believe it is really supposed to be open, maybe a cap fell off.
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OK. Still trying to figure out hose hoses on my intake of my 87 GL AWD Wagon with the freakin Hitachi carb. I can't find an FSM to purchase or download.. the diagrams I find on here are either broken image links or of the vacuum hoses with the air cleaner off.
First off, I know I can remove most of this stuff, and probably will, but right now I just want to get it back the way it was to avoid more problems... I cannot find out what the guy circled in red is... there was only one hose attached when I got it:
My problems now are the 3 big hoses on the right side of the air cleaner (shown with black arrows, I know great color choice
). I've gotten different responses and of course I have a "before" photo with the hose, but can't figure out which one goes where... I think one might just stay open:
I bought this EA82
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
x3
Good luck and nice find! I am in the process of tearing down my ea82 to check the crank bearings. Fun project!