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Subyaddict

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Posts posted by Subyaddict

  1. Hello everyone I am back. A longtime ultimate Subaru message board member, since like 1997 I think, anyways I have returned. I have some super cool news that I want to share with all of you. I have been simulation racing online for years now, and for the last couple of years I have been running my own twitch channel to some relative degree of success. I have 920 followers as of this message now. :-) so among other things on this channel, I stream Sim racing games, specifically rally usually, but I also do live music, and coming up in February will be broadcasting autocross racing as well. I'm looking for people who want to be in and around the channel, and the real life racing team. If you have any interest in being involved feel free to stop by the stream and say hello, and let's talk cars. On Twitch my channel name is NathanielTragic, which is my stage name from my real life band The tragic evolution. You can Google these things if you want to know more. Currently I am set up with Bridge City Auto sports to do autocross racing next season. I was able to attend their last event this year, and placed great times. 

    As for things that may interest you Subaru people specifically, a friend of mine is going to be building his first rally car with my help. we are going to put all of that on stream, and I will be reaching out to you my long-time Subaru community for help and parts when we need it. thank you so much for reading, and I hope to hear from you all soon. It's great to be back! :-)

     

    Nathaniel Tragic on Twitch.Tv

    Aka SubyAddict

     

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  2. The transmission will literally bolt-it, you will need a pressure plate intead of a flywheel. You may need to clarify how the car controls the auto, and make sure those circuits are available or put into your car, because that is the 4EAT transmission E for electric control, not vacuum, and AT for auto trans.

    There may be some clearance issues in the transmission tunnel, nothing a hammer could not fix.

    If you can wait long enough on this thread I'm sure some here can direct you to an answer.

     

    Lets help out Fender Bender guys! Who can make him a kit? or give a wiring diagram?

    Subyaddict

  3. '83 gl wagon(color 243) is my old subaru,

    I just picked up a '92 legacy L wagon AWD (color code 281).

    what do I need to know.

    I know EJ parts fit EJ cars.

    How about a ej20t swap?

    Is this a good car to do it in?

    I know the axles are different , but are they the same length, and can I use the stock hubs for the turbo axles?

    Any other helpful EJ tidbits would be great,or just direct me to links to old discussions.

    BTW, I'm not really new here, you may recognize my sign in as far back as 2003.

    Also BTW, if anyone is looking for specific parts, let me know, I have great sources.:)

    Nate

  4. Please forgive me in advance, but I can't find anything here on tis very stupid question.

    I suspect that my egr valve is not seating all the way.

    Would this cause enough of a change in vacuum pressure that I might notice a significant drop in power and advance?

    Is there any way of cleaning it?

    This may be multiple causes, but any advice on the subject would be greatly appeciated. Thanks Guys,

    Nate

  5. I have an ea81 motor in my 83 gl wagon. It looks like it's finnaly time for the passenger side headgasket.

    Any suggestions on what gasket material

    OEM? Copper?

    What are your opinions?

    I think I'm gonna rebuild the whoole thing for alittle mure power and such.

    Balancing, new pistons (ea82 spfi?), hi-pro bearings, port polish, valve job, cam regrind

    Any other suggestions or info?

    This car will eventually be sporting a 6" lift.

    Peace,

    Nate

  6. Like Ross said, the trick is to make sure it's going in perfectly stright. I used the 36mm axle nut socket to tap it in(using a hammer of course, not the socket), working the the socket around the outer race to keep it going in straight, if you had a socket (or some other short cylider) that was exact same diameter as the outer race you could just tap it straight in, if it still won't go in better pull it back out, and do some investigating. Make sure the knuckle hasn't been bent along the outer rim, just a slight distortion can make it impossible to get the bearing back in because the tolerance is so tight.

    My left front outer bearing had this hang-up, so I had to hammer and grind and polish to get it back in shape, but it works with no problem 1 1/2 months so far.

    But as for doing this job easily, next time I'm buying a slide hammer, there's very little swinging room under there as we all know. :rolleyes:

    Good luck, and if you get mad don't blame it on the subaru, blame it on whoever drove it abusively (even if that's you, I know I'm guilty)

    Later

    Nate

  7. I think the only really tricky part about doing this is trying to get the calipers aligned with the rear disc since the bolt holes are made for the smaller caliper without the e-brake lever. once you get it aligned, with a combination of math and custom brackets the rest would be as easy as it seems. This alignment issue is the only reason I haven't already tried this myself, but i'm putting on vented discs in the front with the corresponding calipers, so I will have the standard calipers the test and measure with. I'll let all you guys know what I come up with. Of course someone on this board could possibly offer some useful information for this conversion, or tells why it's too difficult.

    later

    Nate

  8. I think it's either a worn/broken pressure plate, but if you're lucky the T.O. is just stuck.

    Not likely though.

    When the T.O. gets stuck you usually can't engage because it goes too far and gets stuck on the input shaft.

    Maybe the T.O. arm is bent because of excessive use on a worn clutch. Those are steel though, so again not likely.

    Good luck.

    Let us know what happens.

    Nathan

    :(

  9. I think I prefer studs. The last time I removed my y-pipe, which wasn't too long ago, it came out quite easily with some knocker loose (thread lubricant) even though the studs were very rusted. I went the hardware store with one of the good ones, and got all-new stainless studs.

    It was my dad's suggestion, but I agreed with the idea. I also thought that bolts would be better. My dad said it's not worth trying to get the length exact so you have all the threads but don't bottom out. He also said with studs you have a better chance of removing them once they get rusted again, because there is both a stud and a nut that could possibly break loose before stripping out. Good point I think.

    The adapter plate with the line coming out of it at the exhaust manifold leads to the anti-backfire valve (reed valve). My 83 has only one on the driver side, but my 84 had one on each side. The 84 never backfired, but the 83 rarely does.

    If this ever goes out on you it can be rebuilt with the reed valve kit available at baxters and such. FYI

    :banana:

    Nathan

  10. Sounds like a good idea to me. You just have to make sure everyone understands that it doesn't make the engine bulletproof, and it's not your fault if they break it. Are you gonna do cylinder honing and such? Would you instal high-performance bearings?

    High compression pistons?

    Copper gaskets?

    Port and polish?

    You should just whip up a price list for various services.

    For your own safety you should write a limited liability contract for you and each customer to sign stating the services rendered and results expected, so you can't get sued.

    Nathan

  11. I hate electrical problems. Sounds like a short in the dash. Check the ground wires, and the negative battery terminal.

    If you don't have a wiring schematic on that car, get one. Without it you will be searching forever. Any recent mods like stereo equipment or otherwise. I had a wire shorted behind my upper console where the old stock radio used to connect. It shorted out the tail lights, and made the dash go haywire but the motor still ran fine. A friend had a similar problem on his car, so I found the shorted wire in his car too. Both car have no problems now.

    We both drive EA81s but the problem is fundamental.

    Good luck,

    Nathan

  12. I think most of the reason for a lack of the gc8 impreza stateside is nobody knew what a WRX was until they won 3 WRCs, or played the video game GT for playstation.

    You can make a 2.5 rs into a WRX fairly easily.

    You just need a wrx drivetrain, and a custom wiring harness.

    Or a legacy turbo drivetrain.

    Or you can buy one from Canada(rare).

    I plan on actually doing this within the next couple of years because I greatly prefer the old body to the new one.(mainly the 22B model)

    I have researced this alot and it's very simple, it just takes alot of cash.

    Buying a modified rally car used is a more economical way to go, because someone already did all the hard stuff.

    Check out

    http://www.rallyclassified.com

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