wallyblackburn

I'm gonna do that tomorrow. Take regulator off and blast it with carb cleaner, etc. When it throws code, it is always misfire on #2...will give that one good cleaning and swap with #4 if previous steps don't help. The squeal of the dampener is bizarre though... Thanks all, Wally

Well...put the new dampener on and...IT SQUEALS! Going to start looking at injectors next...

Failures are indeed rare, but they do happen. This post and the article it refers to are insightful: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/if-u-having-misfire-codes-idling-problems-read-104693/ But, to be honest, I would never have even thought to look at this thing if it weren't for the fact that it squeals like a banshee. The loud squealing is something I have not been able to find anything else about. Ahh, the adventures...

Ordered one, but no word on when it's coming in. Given how obscure this thing seems to be, figure it might take a while. In the meantime, I'd really like to at least know if this i the problem. The way this one screws right into the rail, I can't really bypass it with a piece of hose - at not without cutting the rail! Wonder if I took this one out, cut a round piece of gasket to block the opening, and screwed it back in if that would at least let me tell if it is problem? Thanks, Wally

Might even be a regulation requiring it...

Given that this one won't stop squealing (and I mean squealing, loud - it's crazy), I went ahead and ordered a new one. Hopefully it fixes the rough running issue too. Thanks, Wally

Darn, already ordered one. Thanks though. BTW, this one does screw on to the rail - it hangs down in the middle between where the injectors connect.

Finally got my '06 Forester running after putting the correct crank sprocket on (Thanks, montana tom). Repeat of back story: car has sat disassembled for almost 4 years. Complete engine rebuild. Once I got it started, there was a terrible high-pitched squeal that would come and go. I finally got it isolated to the fuel pulsation damper on the driver's side fuel rail. To be honest, I never even noticed these little buggers before. It is running rough and I am getting misfire and lean condition on that side also. At first I figured it was just 4 year old gas causing it to run rough, but now everything points to this pulse damper. So, my question is: anybody know anything about these things? Is it something I'm likely to get past by filling up with good fuel, injector cleaner, etc. and running the old gas through? Or are these things usually failed/not failed period? Nobody but Subaru seems to have one so I'm guessing failures are rare. Subaru has them for about $70 - I have no problem buying one, just wish I had some clue what it even did. Thanks, Wally

Only diffs I've seen in MT vs. AT engines are: - 4 studs in engine to tranny instead of 2 (makes no diff, just have to buy a couple nuts and you'll have couple bolts left over) - a "retainer" on top of the crank sprocket to keep the timing belt from jumping around on a quick decal (like a downshift) Good luck! Wally

Yeah, mulled it over way too much overnight, but realized I was overthinking it. With the crank triggers being so crazy different, it just couldn't make any sense of where the cam should be. So, it picks one to be wrong - in this case the cam sensor circuit. Thanks, Wally

I found the crank sprocket that should be on there. And, even though I am 90% sure I shouldn't have another one of these, I tore into it enough to verify that THE WRONG CRANK SPROCKET IS ON THERE! Not even close! I've never been so happy to uncover a mistake! Still curious what the logic is that would cause it to throw a P0340, but it obviously isn't going to run with the wrong crank sprocket. Look how different: One that should be on there: http://parts.subaru.com/images/uploads/(101)%20parts.subaru.com/fullsize/a_20150810_1415324631.png (wrong) one that's on there now: http://parts.subaru.com/images/uploads/SimplePart%20-%20Subaru/fullsize/a_20160712_1446595524.png MT Tom, I owe you a beer! Thanks, Wally

Yes. Not sure! Yes. As I said, I have a bunch of parts laying around - AND things got all mixed around during a move (part of the circumstances mentioned). While I could ID the cam sprocket, I ASSUMED ALL CRANK SPROCKETS WERE THE SAME! All of the other ones are from 2000-2002 Outbacks. I just checked on parts.subaru.com (they have great pictures) AND THEY ARE CRAZY DIFFERENT! MT, I think you might be on to something! I obviously need to check and make sure I have the right crank sprocket on, but - would the wrong crank sprocket cause it to throw a P0340? I guess I could see some logic where it can't accurately determine where the crank is and would, but I don't know those details... Thanks! Going to go look at the other crank sprockets I have out there and see if one looks like the one that should be on there.

A little background: I bought this 2006 Forester AT X about 4 years ago with a spun rod bearing. I've successfully rebuilt a good number (5-6 maybe) Subie 2.5s. I tore it all down and then, for circumstances I won't bore you with, it ended up sitting until just recently when I finally got it put back together. So, I tried to start it finally, and it would crank and crank but not start. Not even thinking of hitting, just cranked. I hooked up reader and got P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction. I checked connections, etc. Disconnected battery to clear codes, reconnected battery, verified no codes, and cranked again. Have to crank about 30 seconds until CEL came on. Checked again - P0340. - Checked sensor with ohmmeter - about 2K - traced connectivity of sensor all the way to back of huge connector at back of engine - Swapped in another sensor and tried - P0340 - Pulled the carpet up and eyeballed ECM for rodent damage, etc. - looks good - Verified that I had put correct cam sprocket on that side (I have bunch of parts around) - Measured resistance to ground from each side of the CPS sensor plug - got 24K on one and 0.8 ohms on the other, Nothing. As far as timing belt being off: I am not infallible, but I've done quite a few and never missed one yet. I really don't think that's it. Would anything else cause it to throw this code? I originally thought maybe it was just old gas until I consistently got the P0340 code. Stale gas couldn't cause it to throw a P0340 could it? What would be the chances of a bad ECM? Thanks in advance for any help, Wally