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Crupper

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Posts posted by Crupper

  1. My 90 Loyale has a 4 sp auto and it will up shift to 3 rd and stay there, shift lever is in D and shows up on dash, but 3 rd also shows on dash. When I shift back to 3 rd or 2 nd it doesn't down shift. When trannie is cold it will act normal till it warms up and then it will down shift all on it's own and stay there. I pulled the pan and cleaned the screen. Couldn't find a filter. whatsup?

  2. Actually, changing just the width while maintaining the same aspect ratio (the series) will effect rolling diameter.

     

    The series is what percentage of the width the tire is tall. So if you had 100mm wide tires with a 70 series, they'd be 70mm tall.

     

    Ergo, a 165/70 tire will have a smaller rolling diameter than a 185/70 tire.

     

    However, 10mph off is not correct. A 165/70/13 tire will have an overall diameter of 22.09 in. A 185/70/13 tire will have an overall diameter of 23.19 in.

     

    The overall difference is around 5%. What does this mean? Your speedometer reads about 5% slow.

     

    When you're traveling 100mph, your speedometer will read 95mph. When you're traveling 10mph, your speedometer will read 9.5mph. Extrapolate from there.

     

    10mph off? hardly.

     

     

    OK. then this car's tire plate on the door post says 165 SR 13 and doesn't have a series. The the Goodyear tires on it are 185/ 80 R 13. Would that make it read more than 5%? I was driving my 90 sub at 55 MPH and the wife was following with this 92 and she was going 45 MPH. thanks for the comeback!

  3. The device sitting on top of the thermo housing has a hose that leads back to the nitake plenum. This device is called the AAV (Auxilary Air Valve) and is what supplied air into the intake when the throttle body is closed. This is in essence, what controls the idle speed.

     

    OK thanks. Replaced the ECS (engine coolant sensor) and the blame thing still don't idle when warm. Runs great cold, till it drops to low idle and dies. I didn't replace the AAV, In Chiltons there isn't a picture of it, or how to test it, so don't know if it is OK or not. Or even if it might control the warm idle.Thanks for your help!

  4. Four screws and square? Where is this located? The first thing that popped into my head is the MAF sensor located in the intake ducting (I assume this is standard since it's MPFI).

     

    -Aaron

     

    No, this THING is sitting on and is part of the thermostat housing. There is 2 numbers on it (1) 14467AA001 (2)A32-000 974

    "JECS" Made in Japan.

    The radiator hose is attached to the housing. I took some digital photos but don't know how to post them.

  5. You have a vacuum leak. Check over on the passengar side strut tower. You should find two (or one maybe in your model) pressure switches hooked up to a vacuum line running to the intake mani. One of those switches is responsible for the turbo light. The line problem came unplugged. Its happened to me before.

     

    Hook it back up, and marvel at the turbo light and the ability to idle.

     

    Good advice! Found hose and found where to plug him in and got Turbo light,BUT she still no idle when warmed up. Must be the ECT, but where is it and what does it look like? Chilton's manual doesn't show anything like what is on top of this thermostat housing, It says to remove with suitable wrench and coat threads before installing. This I'm looking at has 4 phillips screws is square and on ohms check shows direct short at 100+º. Whatdoyouthink?

  6. I just bought a 89 DL wagon with a manual 5 speed. The blame thing will start (in gear) without the clutch pedel depressed. I looked in the Chilton book wiring diagarm and it shows no starter lock out switch, and it does show one on the automatic. Is this true? Am I looking in the wrong place? Help! The wife dern-near drove thru the garage door.

  7. Had my hands on it the other day, but didn't take it off, I will take a closer look. Thanks

     

    I'm gonna guess vacuum

     

     

    up on the firewall on the passenger sid is a white vacuum canister.. make sure all connections to and from it are secure. Leaky connections/canister are a common problem when having HVAC switching trouble.. Good bet it would affect the cruise as well.

  8. I had the same problem with my 90 Loyale, have checked everything for voltage and continuity, all checked OK. took the drivers door control off and spread out a clean cloth and took it apart and checked all the contacts they all looked OK but brushed them with a ss tooth brush, made sure everything in the right place and put it all together, installed it and everything worked. I have no idea what was wrong or out of place, but all the windows work, it's been driving me crazy for a month, I wish I knew what was wrong.

     

     

     

    Yeah, that's certainly possible. I need to check for voltage at the relay! Thanks alot.

     

    rick

  9. I found the Window relay under the passenger seat and carpet in my 90 Loyale wagon, and after testing all the circuts, I have power thru the smaller relay to the bigger electric relay but no juice comes out of the other 6 connections on it. Must be where the trouble lies, dealer will have to order part and charge $139.00 bucks. Anybody out there have one in working condition, less expensive?

  10. I got a 90 Loyale wagon with 4 doors and only the drivers door window will go up and down. I can get 12 v at all the other doors with volt meter but now enought power to operate the motors, I can jumper all the window motors and they work. had all the door switches apart and cleaned the contacts and they all work, so thinking it might be the window relay or controler. does any one know where they are located ? I"ve looked under the hood and under the glove box on the fire wall, but I don't see anything that looks like a relay. Any help would be appreciated

  11. I'm guessing your transmission is the 4 speed auto with full time 4wd? Or is there a pushbutton for 4wd?

    It is a 3 speed auto and a fuse for AWD, It has a push button to hold 1st gear. Been thinking that it does it more in AWD than 2WD. The drive line checks out OK, and the tires are all the same size, thinking it might be in the tranfer case doing something when it is in AWD. I'm replacing both front axles today, as the boots were shot for some time. I'm running out of options, checking the internet I can't find any rebuilt trannies for this model and so far no good ones from a wrecking yard. Everyone I talk to says "You don't have problems with this tranmission, there bullet proof" so I'm looking elsewhere. Open for any ideas from any one.

    Crupper

  12. I just installed a "low milage" EA82 turbo from Japan in my 90 Loyale with AT- AWD. Got it running OK for a few miles ( 95 to 100) and now ATF is leaking down behind the engine, in front of the trans axle. Could it be the seal behind the torque converter? Do I have to pull the motor again? So far my wife thinks it's a pull toy as we have pulled it home twice. Now I know that if the horn that goes between the turbo and throttle valve comes loose it wont run long enough to get off the road. Volt meter works only when IT wants to, I check it when it is not working and altenator is kicking out 13 v. Not to worry?

  13. After installing a "Low milage" E82 OHV Turbo in my 90 Loyale wagon, I see ATF leaking behind the engine, in front of the trans axle. How can that be as the Auto trannie is behind the trans axle? Would the seal behind the Torque converter be the problem? I put in a can of K&N seal softner in but that didn't slow it down. To fix do I pull the engine again?

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