Redhat

This is exactly right. I learned the hard way. Should have joined this forum when I first did the T belt. One other thing I learned is the stamped arrow on the crank gear is NOT the timing mark! It's on the plate behind the gear as I'm sure everyone here knows. I just wish it was a little easier getting the cam pulley bolts off. Since an impact wrench doesn't fit, it's all breaker bar and somehow holding the pulleys from turning. RPITA

Thanks everyone. I see Import Experts also sells on Ebay at way less than their website price. I just gave them the part number and confirmed the kit was the same gates kit from their website. $72 vs $227. At that price, I'm replacing everything.

The CarQuest guys are telling me they have a whole kit including timing belt and three pulleys for about $200. It's made by Gates. I wonder if anyone has a better idea. I'm not even sure they're bad, they just sound a little click click when spun. But there's no 'grinding' or rough spots. Just looking for experience on how to proceed.

Good morning, I have the idler sprockets (3) off and am spinning them to check bearing condition. They run relatively smooth but are not exactly quiet. Kind of varying noises if you know what I mean. If I do need to replace, is the usual to just replace the bearing or the whole thing. Is it a bearing press job.. Thanks for any input. It's a 96 legacy 2.2

It was Napa that had the Anarobic red stuff for $20 a tube. I'll go to Advanced tomorrow and either get that or Ultra Grey. Thanks again for the suggestions. I'll be back with more of what happens. The good news is the valve covers don't seem to be leaking so I guess I can return those gaskets.

Yes, the Permatex anaerobic sealant is the red stuff. Is the ultra gray any cheaper?

Man, I'm a idiot not to think of impacting them with T belt resistance. I have a good impact gun too. I didn't want to damage the sprockets by putting screwdrivers or the like through them. Maybe I'll do a piece of wood with the impact. I don't have an old timing belt any more, so that's out. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and let you know. Thanks for the heads up. BTW, I have a tube of black gasket sealer. It says 'non hardening'. Do you think I might be able to use a little for the oil pump contact surface? The red stuff is $20 a tube.

Here's an update for those who helped me get started. Sure enough, the backing plate screws on the oil pump were loose and the crank shaft seal was bad. That was all relatively easy to get back together but I'm having trouble getting the cam sprocket bolts off. I've tried a homemade spanner wrench but the pressure was just bending it up. I've read that maybe a ratchet strap might be useful. Does anyone have any suggestions? It's the EJ22 motor. Thanks for any help.

Looks like I'll be hauling wood for the stove most of the weekend so the motors gonna wait till tuesday. Yeah, I've been through the 'burping procedure' when I did the timing belt but I'll search and see if I learn something more. I remember jacking the front of the car up a bit, keeping the rad cap on, unscrewing the left side top rad plug and running a tightly fitting piece of hose out of it into a container. Just when you think you've got all the air out... boom, there goes more. So I ran the motor for at least ten minutes.

Hi 3suubs... that link didn't go through. What's the title on the tread, I'll try and find it that way.

10-4 on the o ring. I'll install it dry and use ultra gray on mating surfaces. I'll be pulling the fan and probably the radiator. Do I install the valve cover gaskets dry..? and is there an issue with over tightening bolts on any of the things I'm doing? Have a good evening

Thanks Dave, I think I've got it figured out. I also like taking note of how deep the seals are pressed in so I can repeat. Thanks 3Suubs. Just to review - A little grease on the seals and tap'em in with socket. Oil pump (OEM) 'o' ring gets a little super gray, use OEM gasket for wp and install dry. What about torque on the bolts.. do I need locktite anywhere? And lastly, if I'm doing valve cover gaskets, do I use some super gray.. how much torque on these bolts? Have a good evening and thanks again.

Very good. I'll let you know how it turns out. As I understand it, the crank seal mounts into the front of the oil pump so after I get the pump on, I tap the seal into place. Is that right? Also, If I replace the water pump, should I use super gray on the gasket surface? Thanks again for your time and help. Dan

Hi Dave, thanks for your reply. Yes, I saw the Liste puller. If I can find it locally, I'll get it. When re-installing the oil pump, am I smearing the super gray on the gasket surfaces so I sandwich the gasket between super gray? I've never had the oil pump off so I don't know what I'm looking at yet. Is there just the 'O' ring and I smear the super gray on the 'O' ring and shaft? Also, should I change the screen in the oil pump or at least clean it..? Is it easy to get to? Thanks again for any help. Dan

In further reading, I understand the new crank and cam seals go in with just a little bearing grease. Also I guess there's an 'O' ring on the back of the oil pump that can be replaced. Thanks for any help.

Hi everyone. This is a 96 Legacy with the 2.2 EJ22 motor. Last April I changed the timing belt but didn't think to change the seals.. and now I think they're leaking. Is there any tricks to getting the cam sprockets off..? Should I try to find a seal puller for the seals.. or just carefully use a thin screwdriver to get the seals out? Next is, when I'm putting the new seals in, do I put them in dry or use grease, gasket sealer.. etc... what do I use? Lastly, I've been told that the oil pump has a backing plate where the screws can get loose. If I pull the oil pump and locktite these 5 screws, is it just a matter of a new gasket and some gasket sealer to reinstall..? What kind of gasket sealer do I use? What's the torque on the bolts? Any help would be much appreciated. I hope to get after it this weekend. PS. OEM seals vs CarQuest parts..? Any thing else I'm forgetting..? Thanks again.