swamphunter

Left head is now off. # 1 piston is removed. The knocking was apparently coming from the #1 center exhaust valve lightly hitting the top of the piston. I can see this now that everything is apart and out in the open. The valve is slightly bent. Rings look okay, but grooves definitely need cleaning. There seems to be a wide range of opinions on ring gap with most information aimed towards turbo and performance applications. Everything from .0079 min to over .020. Cylinder block deck on right side looks good with a straight edge after cleaning (kind of reminds me of old Chevy Vega days, but only 2 cylinders). My big issue now: I need to remove this bent valve. Do the cams need to come out to have the heads re-surfaced. I did see some poor pictures in my Haynes manual (yes, I know) about releasing cam springs. Anybody? Internet search is frustrating on this. Dennis Note: this car is a grocery getter. Basic everyday transportation, not a performance car.

The knocking sounded more like detonation knock, but it was not warmed up. I do lean more towards resurfacing the heads and new gaskets now. I will at minimum pull the #1 piston, check it for damage and check ring gap while it's out. If gap is okay, it goes back in. From looking around more, the heads do seem to be more year specific due to the variable cam system (the local advertised engine lacks the cam solenoids and the housing on the rear of the right head). Turbo head gaskets? This is a new one to me (Subaru wise). Do these (regular or turbo gaskets) go on dry? I saw some kind of video where the guy seemed to coat them (unless manufacturer) specified, I've never been a fan of that process. Again, thanks to all who have responded. FWIW, th e local Subaru Dealer, Bert Smith, is lousy on parts service. Dennis

Thanks for the reply. This brings us back to my original question: What years fit? There seems to be some consensus that by swapping intake, sensors, and cam sprockets, a wide range of engines can fit. I'd have to know for sure before pulling the trigger on buying a used engine. As far as rebuilding this one, I'd feel better knowing what I have. Down here (Tampa bay area, Florida), you can't touch even a junker for under a K. I still have to get the left head off, clean and check the block and get a estimate of time and price on doing the heads. I don't even really think it will need pistons, but will know more when I pull them out.

Update: Pulled the right head (man, are these things fun to get out of the car) No damage to the piston or valves (one intake opens before the other one?) It appears that the head gasket went and was possibly air going through an oil passage into the crankcase. Heads will minimum need resurfaced, probably have valves done. If I'm going this far. I'll pull the pistons and re-ring it. The cylinders look excellent, still showing cross hatch marks and no ridge. Have to do a straight edge on the block to check that. Questions: new head bolts? (some say yes, some say no). Good source for rings? Head gaskets - OEM right? Dennis

So my 2006 Forester is ill. Was hard starting and wouldn't idle (for wife). Had it towed home. Showed codes for 1 + 3 misfire. I cleared the codes, pulled the plug wires and plugs (fairly new), cleaned all the oil off the boots and cranked it up, it ran fine for a few seconds, started knocking (was always impressively quiet - 195K miles), and now has no compression on # 1 cylinder. A leak down test has hissing coming from the oil fill tube, and I now see stories of piston failure. Engine will be coming out tomorrow. If it needs replaced, does anybody know what years are compatible? There seems to be a JDM available locally, but it is a 2005. If I opt to rebuild, how about a good source on pistons? I'm not looking for racing pistons, but don't want cheapo replacements either. Dennis

This one was grunting pretty badly. I installed the fuse and it is smooth as silk now, but of course, there is no AWD. It will be at least a couple of weeks before I get to it. Only tranny "shop" I trust is a former GM tranny guy who does side work. He is pretty good with all kinds, but the jobs always take a few weeks. Most shops around here, the techs should be wearing striped uniforms with numbers on them. Dennis

Yeah, that was my fear. I have a background in Heavy and specialized equipment, so I am somewhat familiar with various kinds of drives, I just needed to be "steered in the right direction" as far as Subarus were concerned. I started this with a search of "Subaru towed on 2 wheels", which led to "center differential" (manual) and a little about the viscous coupling (which some seemed to think was for the manuals). Of course there are also a lot of B.S. specialists out there too. I am fairly involved with the "Planetisuzoo" forum, but the Subies I am still learning. Trying to decide now if I should 1. Just replace the whole main transaxle with a used one, 2. try a used coupling (not sure of years or compatibility), or 3. Get parts and rebuild this one. Dennis FWIW, I picked this Forester up for 1500.00 from a guy (shiester) who I found out bought it for junk (from the original owner). For the most part, the car is in good shape.

Thank you (you seem to be one of the well informed by the number of responses you have given). A google search led me back to my owners manual and the "incase of emergency" section. A spare fuse has things under control until I can better asses the real problem..My problem seems to be in becoming more familiar with the correct terminology. For the most part, our Subies have been very dependable other than a few maintenance items. The AWD and particular the 2006 are new territory for me. I have the full factory FSM for the '98 ,and a Chiltons for the '02. The '06, I'll have to learn about. Dennis

Just recently got a 2006 Forester (already have a 1998 and a 2002 - love them). I believe this one was towed on its rear wheels. When turning, it has the grunt and groan that is typical of a "center differential" (I know that's the manuals) noise. While there seems to be all kinds of info out there on manuals, I'm having a hard time finding anything on the automatics. Any information is greatly appreciated Dennis

My best guess on the lack of failures in foreign markets, would be better maintenance. Face it, with the demise of full service gas stations years ago, most cars are lucky to get the oil changed. Another strong possibility for the Japanese market would be the replacement of the engines at such a low mileage (think JDM engines). Just found out last night that I didn't get the L.H. cam cover gasket in correctly (2 tries). Something I couldn't see must have slipped out. It is a shame they couldn't have put about 1 more inch between the engine and the body rails. Dennis

Hey, thanks for the responses. I will probably be picking up a set of H.G.s pretty soon so that I have them on hand when I get an extra day or so to do the job. No bubbles in the coolant, so we are okay so far. Already did the valve cover gaskets (reminiscent of my old Chevy Corvair days), checked the plugs (not my favorite experience), and changed the oil. Trans fluid change is just waiting on better weather (raining), and a set of steering rack boots are in the near future, as well as a heat shield fix. I will also be changing the differential fluids along with a bearing check and brake pad inspection. The engine does seem to have a small knocking at idle, but it goes away at about 1,000 - 1500 RPM. ????? What is this baffle that I have heard about? Dennis

I just got a '98 Forester. It seems to have the original head gaskets @ 122K miles. I'm contemplating a preventative head gasket replacement. What gaskets do people recommend? (I'm a certified mechanic, but this is my first Subaru. It came with all 3 factory service manuals) Dennis