Villano

I must add that this car is my daily driver and only sits on weekends; some months ago I replaced the center diff ($$$!) and I'm wondering if driving with a faulty cv can make some damage to the vc unit? If the cv fails, the car would stop moving like a 2WD? I'm not planning to drive it to the end, though.

Sadly I don´t have junkyards nearby, though there are some stores in the near cities that sell used parts... but first, I'll inspect the boots, maybe tomorrow. That's a lot of info, I really appreciate it JPX and bluedotsnow! I'll keep you informed as I make advances.

Thanks for the advice! I'm gonna inspect those boots soon... Never changed cv's on this car, do I have to replace the entire axle or is it possible to change the outer section only?

Hello friends, first I want to apologize for coming over only when my car has problems... A month ago I was driving to my home in a very slippery dirt road, with a thin layer of mud. (Legacy 2000 Wagon, MT) I was driving very carefully, but the stock highway tires didn't perform good on mud and I ended with both left wheels on a muddy ditch. I put low range and started the maneuvers to dislodge the car, including going forward and reverse with the steering fully to the right. I managed to get out of the mud and drove home. The next day while driving at 65 mph (100 kph) I noticed a vibration from the front end. I thought it was mud inside the wheel what caused the vibration, like a wheel out of balance. It was an up and down vibration, not side to side. I washed all wheels with an hydro washer, but the problem continued. At the same time, the left wheel started clicking when turning right or left. For me, it is clear that the outer cv joint is in its final hours, but searching through the forum I've seen lots of aspects to consider; for instance, the vibration doesn't stop when coasting downhill on neutral. Any guess? Can it be the cv joint plus other thing? Thanks in advance!

FINAL UPDATE: Bought new center diff with bearings ($420.000 chilean pesos, $900+ dollars), car runs like new, no noise or binding! Thanks to everybody for your time, interest and advice!

UPDATE I took the risk, and drove the 120 miles to my brothers home. The car felt worse mile after mile; today, my brother got everything apart. This is how the center diff looks right now: It's toasted, isn't it?

Yes, it has dual range. The tranny code is TY754XRAAA, and it has the following applications: Date Body Engine Train Transmission Grade Suspension Destination '98, October — '01, April WAGON 2000CC EMPI SOHC NA FULLTIME 4WD Manual transmission LX Normal suspension Left-hand drive '98, October — WAGON 2000CC EMPI SOHC NA FULLTIME 4WD Manual transmission GL(KA:GX) Normal suspension Left-hand drive Then I must assume this center diff is a Phase 2, I guess.

Well, no news yet. I'm trying to find a good Subaru mechanic who can help me and my brother (a mechanic too, but he works at an oil refinery 120 miles away) to get the center diff out of the car. Today I got a picture (taken from the drivers side) Apparently there's a leak between the tranny case and the transfer. Another sign of a bad center diff, or something else? Another question I have right now, do you recognize the tranny and the transfer case? The engine is an EJ20, 2000cc, and I wonder if the tranny is phase 1 or phase 2 (according to this http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/center-diffs-how-replace-them-46979/); I suspect EJ20's kept coming with phase 1 transmissions despite being post 1999...

Well, I bought the car 1 1/2 month ago and came with matched tires inflated at equal pressure (20 psi, maybe the seller was trying to hide something?). For now, I see complicated to swap an entire tranny. I guess I'll end getting the car to the dealer and wait for the giant repair bill

Pitch change with speed; like you said, I can't hear anything abnormal with the car not moving, revving the engine or not. I found this video on youtube and used it as an example. I hope to make one myself during weekend.

Don't know if posting youtube links is allowed... but this is exactly the noise my car makes: (Video is from another guy's car)

Ok, I'll follow your advice, thank you!

My major mistake was not getting the car thoroughly checked; at least I should have asked at this forum before getting an used AWD car... I see lots of time, work and money expenses in my future I'll keep you informed (I'll try to post some pics) Thanks!

Thank you edrach! I don't have any input on the car lubrication manteinance, the only thing I was told about was the timing belt change at 120000km... Well, I guess I'm gonna have to get the front diff checked first. I forgot to mention that the noise came also with a very slight vibration of the steering wheel I didn't note before. I also have to say that the car with the transmission "cold" runs super smooth, without noises, vibrations or binding; sadly, this lasts for a few minutes.

The noise is definetly coming front the front end of the car. For instance, if I roll down the front passenger window the noise is much more stronger than if I do the same with the rear passenger window. But since I bought the car it showed very evident signs of binding after certain amount of driving. Maybe this preexistant condition caused the supposed front diff failure?

I bought the car in June with 1480000 km (92000 miles). I did 7000 km since then, and came to check the gear oil level only at 154000, when the noise started. I don't know if this is enough, or should I check the front diff lube? How do you do that? The car right know is sitting 100 miles away from the nearest dealer or shop; thats why I 'm trying to check the most by myself before making a trip with an uncertain end...

Ok, I'm gonna get a new center diff, anyway I have no choice since it is clear that is shot. Dealers down here charge about $2000 for the piece alone; if I can´t find a used one, I'll ask you guys for a good vendor in the States. Buying OEM parts in USA, including all taxes, fees, etc. is cheaper. I live in Chile, by the way. Thanks!

My doubt about bearings is related to the noise starting after at least 5-10 minutes of driving; I guess a defective bearing would make noise at any temperature, or am I wrong??

The noise is always there when the car is moving, with the clutch pressed is the same. One week ago I checked the gear oil level, it was below the "low" level. I refilled with 80W90, hoping that the noise would go away, but didn't note any change. Thanks for answering!

I've been searching the forum a lot, but I couldn't find the info I need... My car (2000 Legacy Wagon, 2.0 engine, 5MT) has showed the typical symptoms of a dying center diff. But some three weeks ago, during a 3 hours trip, the car started to "whine", a noise coming from the front end of the car. At first it was slightly noticeable, right now the noise is pretty annoying at any speed over 10 mph. What makes me associate the noise with the viscous coupler at the center differential is that the noise is notorious only after a period of driving, the same period (about 10 minutes) that takes the car to show the VC failure symptoms. The whine/noise is like the normal sound of the reverse gear engaged, but you can hear it with the car coasting or with gears engaged; it won't change if you drive in straight line or around curves, the whine only changes to a higher pitch with speed increases, and viceversa. My question is, can a center diff at a last stage of "demise" make this noise, or should I look the front diff, wheel bearings or another failure? Thanks in advance!

I meant viscous coupler unit...

Hi everybody, some time ago I bought a Legacy GE (wagon, 5sp, mt, awd, 2000 cc, year 2000) with 145000 km (90000 miles). Well, I didn't check the car right, and sooner than later I discovered symptoms of VC problems (basically, thumping at tight corners after a period of driving, irregular acceleration at very low speeds). Until now, I have lived with this (3000 mi.), but recently the car started to make a noise coming from the front end, also after a warm up period, a noise like bumper cars make (or the sound of rubber wheels of the subway). One day, abs light came on; I drove some miles with the light on, stopped the car and restarted the engine, what prompted the light to turn off and never came on again. I ask for your input, since mechanics around here are less than stellar and I don't want to start buying parts like mad... I suspect wheel bearings problems triggering the abs alerts? Thanks in advance!

It is good to hear from your experience that Subarus can last that long. I've been looking cars on internet pages, and I can see that GLs 4wd are sold quickly...