Razorthirty
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Posts posted by Razorthirty
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You would be better off finding a phase 1 2.2. Anything from 91-97 (if its got EGR you will need an EGR motor to not have a CEL) will work, make sure you use the intake off the '98 and put it on whichever motor you swap in. May also have to grab the y pipe for the dual port headers on the earlier models.
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There are no u-joints in the front end of a legacy. The front wheels are driven by two CV Shafts (one per wheel) that come directly out of the front of the Transmission/differential housing (you can see them if you look down the back of the engine bay on either side)
There IS a u-joint on the rear 2-piece drive shaft, i am unsure as to weather or not it is removable. I think that it is removable just the same as most are.
As for part numbers, i cant help you there.
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My 98 Forester with the same 2.5 DOHC, it slaps pretty loud in the morning, especially when around 0* F. Warms up and goes away pretty much entirely in about 2-5 minutes.
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Well don't bother with the projectors out of the UrS4/C4 chassis, I don't know about the others but they are just as bad as the legacy lights...
The 98 Forester i just got has Great headlights though.
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How about when braking? Warped rotors can cause that.
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Subaru never used 13 mm. They consider it bad luck.
I just removed my original starter im fairly certain, OEM starter nut (the positive battery cable on the starter) is a 13mm, among others im sure.
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I unplugged the coil at the 3 wire connector about 3" down the harness from the coil, no change. Ill give the starter a shot as well.
Good thing i bought a big box of fuses haha.. I really need to make a 15A breaker with some spades coming off so i dont have to keep wasting fuses. I like the light bulb idea was well. So many projects though, ill do more trouble shooting this weekend and let everyone know what i find.
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that is correct, it is fine when i just turn the key to RUN when i turn to START it blows the fuse immediately. i will try looking for bad wiring, that seems likely as i already had to solder the knock sensor wire back together (the code is just still stored because i never reset the ecu, i only unplugged for 10 mins to do the job)
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Hey guys, im a bit stumped here. 94 Touring wagon 240k miles.
I was at a stop light and just as it turned green i took my foot off the brake and the instant i touched the gas the car died, as though i had turned off the key. No sputtering or cough or nadda, just dead. Had to push it off the road and get towed home.
Once home i was able to figure out that the fuse (#16) for the ECU/TCU/ Ignition coils/Alternator was blown. I tried replacing it and it blew as soon as i cranked the motor over. I unplugged the TCU, alternator, and ignition coil. When i turn the key to the on position the check engine light come on *knock sensor, code 22* no biggie, its just an old stored code. When i try to crank the car over it pops the fuse instantly, my next step is to unplug the ECU as well and see what happens, that just take a bit more effort to get to the plugs on it.
Was wondering if this sounds familiar or what else i should be checking.
Thanks.
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Well i am not planning on being intentionally abusive by way of brake launches but i do plan on using the throttle to its maximum potential. Including turning up the boost a bit and i plan on towing with it as well.
A trans cooler will be added to the new unit whatever it may be.
A 5 speed swap may also be in its future if i come across a parts car so i can take everything i need.
Both mounts are the same part number, made by Anchor, i don't remember the number, just that they were the same. I even called O'Reillys to double check that the same part number was both sides and they said yes. Not that i really believed them i just had no other source of info at the time so i went for it.
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The 'new' trans was out of a 92 legacy, so same 3.9.
I would believe that i put the mount on wrong, as that kind of things happens all the time, does anybody feel like going out to their Touring Wagon and maybe snapping a pic of the right motor mount? Im sure i will just replace it again down the road as i dont like how it went together anyway, i was just out of time and patience at that point.
Thanks for the link.
My only concern with using the non-Turbo transmission is that the turbo is definitely beefier in a few spots (transfer clutch and first gear clutches at least), and would hate to just tear up the new one.
If i do go that route i will need to grab the matching TCU as well as making sure about the final drive correct?
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Did you set backlash and preload on the new ring and pinion? It's not always as easy as just swapping parts.
Kinda looks like somene else had trouble with the mounts before.
NA and turbo mounts are different shaped, but I'm not sure if they bolt on any differently.
I did not set anything unfortunately, i did not even realize i had to at the time. Now that i do know i have to i still don't know how to nor do i want to rip that transmission out to do anything but replace it as it shift slowly as well as 4wd not working, just fwd.
Mostly this one was just a learning experience. I figure i put myself in the beginning stages of what i just changed out but oh well.
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When i bought my 94 Touring wagon, i drove it home 200 miles with a screaming front differential and parked it till i could source a different front differential.
I found a transmission out of a 92 legacy for $250, same 3.90 gear ratio. Let the project begin.
But after much frustration..
Once i got it separated this happens!.
Sheared motor mounts. game on
Broken..
Broken..
Now for more fun, make 2 into 1
Center Diffs off, changing the pinion shafts
Old bad shaft (Ouch)
Nice new shaft (ouchless)
Old bad diff.
This is where the picture of the new diff should be, oops. Got carried away on that one.
And ready to go back in as a unit. Much easier then separately. I think.
Ands its back in the driveway..
Couple comments:
Seem like an extra pair of hands is a must during the actual removal and installation on the motor and transmission.
I have read of people saying both things about the process, to remove the motor and trans as a unit or not i mean, i find it easier to keep them as a whole.
Not something i would consider undertaking again without a lift at the very least.
Questions/Issues:
Are turbo motor mounts different then a n/a motor? parts store says no but the right side motor mount did NOT want to go into its slot. Not at all. I got i eventually but it stretched the mount pretty good and i only barely got it threaded, see pic string.
It now grinds constantly when on the throttle, from the front diff. its not loud, but noticeable, almost sounds like the diff is full of sand, its got nice clean new redline syn mt-90 in it..
random squealing, did not happen before, changes with rapid weight shift (read changing lanes with vigor). Im thinking brakes.
slow to shift into drive and in between gears, anybody got a turbo auto tranny they wanna sell me?
Exhaust leak, i couldn't get the hanger back on the trans no what i tried so i gave up and it leaks at the gasket under my butt when i drive.
code 22, duh. still need to go get some wire to redo that, i can not for life of me find which pin at the ecu is the knock sensor?
Right
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I can completely understand the reasoning behind this. I myself almost wouldn't mind doing the same thing, I just bought a 94 Touring Wagon that needed some trans work. I don't know how much a wrecked sti would go for, especially wrecked so that you can steal most of the parts, but it seems cost prohibitive, how much more power can you get out of an sti (230 stock hp) then a 22t(163 stock hp)? Is it worth it?
I sure want pics if you end up doing it though!
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I would recommend new tires as soon as you can possibly afford it, those look aged, cracked, and broken. Im fairly certain that its the the steel belts broken and coming out. Likely soon to be followed by the tread itself.
But im wrong all the time, maybe just take it to your nearest tire shop and have them pop it off and take a look.
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*holds out a spoon and makes airplane noises* Open wide!
From wikipedia - "There were two variations of the EJ25D sold in the US market. The engine was introduced in 1996 in the Legacy 2.5GT, LSi, and Legacy Outback."
Not trying to be mean, just saying, this probably took longer to post then to find out on the interwebz.
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I was more curious about the Transmission R+R to be honest. Bout to pull mine to swap the front diff..
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I would like to know this as well, also whats the trans r+r vs a n/a?
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It is indeed the one from Thompson Falls, and he was kind enough to not even mention the diff to me by email or phone, i was less then happy with the guy. But it did make it 300 miles home and it will be fixed , im determined.
All check engine codes went away after i let it sit and dry for 24 hours. I got it pretty wet trying to get all the dirt and gravel and mouse nest outta the engine bay. Still unsure where the plug on the harness for that oil pressure sensor went(??), and why im not getting an oil pressure light because of it. I started it to turn it around and check if the codes went out, and when in gear, it seems to really pull hard at idle, took some real brake pressure to keep it from moving, can this be caused by a high idle? I sure there is a vacuum leak or two to be chased down..
I talked to the Subaru independent specialist shop here (these guys are the best for subies) and he recommended that i take a 93 legacy auto out of his backyard for $250 conveniently, once i get paid.. i unwisely started 2 builds at once (94 saab 9000 aero) because i got a great deal on both at the same time and now im super broke for a bit
. anyhow, take the front diff out of the donor trans and put it in mine, pinion shaft and all. fairly straightforward swap apparently, and i have a friend who will let me use his garage and mini lift.As far as the knock goes, its loud when i start it up cold, then seems to go away when it warms up.i have not done the screwdriver/dowel in ear test to pinpoint it exactly but it sounds like the knock might be coming from the passenger side of the block... more investigation pending.
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Thanks i think its epic myself, it is pretty rough though and need some major love. Gonna be a month or two before she is back on the road. I will take tons of pics of everything though.
Brought it to the car wash and cleaned it all up, got all the gravel and dirt out of the crack and crevices. Which brought up 3 engine codes, 14(#1 injector),22(knock sensor),42(idle switch). Ill wait and see if it goes away when it dries out, i pressure washed the engine bay pretty good.
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Well im sure in for it now, I saw not too long ago on Craigslist (the start of the problems
) a 94 turbo auto wagon pop up for $1000, 300 miles away.. So i immediately put an ad on craigslist to sell my 92 lego wagon n/a auto. A week later i sell it and immediately call the guy with the turbo wagon for sale and learn that its still available, sweet! So i drive out there and.... well its pretty rough the ad said it runs and drives.. sure, technically. Long story short needs a trans, and the engine might have a knock im not sure. I argued him down to $750 (i may have over payed but ive been looking for one for a while) and set off on my 300 mile drive home, eek! It made it though, droning on the whole way, it was a quart low on oil and 2 quarts low on trans fluid when i went and looked at it, filled it up at the first gas station about 13 miles away. Didn't appear to change anything with the noise or engagement issue. It sprung a coolant leak from the heater core hose in the engine bay, i just had to let it drip the whole way home, leaked about a half quart in 300 miles. Didn't use any oil, or leak any trans fluid, and it smells decent as well. Overall it seems ok just neglected, i will change that.The front diff whines like a jet plane!
Delayed engagement from drive to reverse (2 or even 3 seconds)
The engine has a just noticeable knock you can only barely hear in the cabin usually, it may be coming from the torque converter after listening underneath.
Ticks pretty good (passenger head) mostly when cold it appears so far
Head gasket was done 60k ago along with timing belt\water pump
Looks like a home done not-so-hot job (see pics)
Underside and trunk a bit rusty, just surface rust on the underside, gotta get on that. And get a new trunk.
There is a sensor down between the alternator and p/s reservoir that is not plugged in (pic)! knock sensor or oil pressure im thinking, but there is no check engine light on! and it works when i turn the key on with the engine off.
Questions:
I have read that the turbo trans is beefier and has a different TCU, does this mean that a n/a trans will not hold the power (especially as i plan on turning it up to close to 200 chp)? Or will it work fine and i also need that TCU and the rear diff?
Will the ECU work with a 5 spd if i go that route?
Are turbo 5 spds or auto's longer gear ratios then n/a?
Do i need to rebuild the current trans to keep it or can i just replace the diff with one from a n/a trans? Different ratios?
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My advice is to take it to your nearest mechanically inclined friend or honest mechanic as you dont sound confident in your own skills, if you decide otherwise Youtube can be a great resource for how-to videos and i encourage you to spend a couple hours doing some good research before going in either direction.
Rebuild or swap?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by Razorthirty
Alternately, get the same motor as you have, from another car, and put it in. they are sometimes had cheaper because of their issues. Mine is fine at 190k with one headgasket job a few years ago.
I like the power from the DOHC, better torque curve.