rain_man_rich
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Posts posted by rain_man_rich
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sweet! I forgot to mention. TDC on the compression stroke (blows air out the spark plug hole on the way up) Then look at the rotor...
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"My Plan:
.5) check all fuses
1) Spray starting fluid into intake, if car starts up and dies, its a fuel problem
2)check fuel, remove fuel line, turn on accessory (I don't need to crank right?) and see if fuel comes out.
3) Spark test a plug... I'm going to be working on this alone so I'm thinking take some jumper cables, one end of cables to plug, one end to neg term, and crank???? I'll try to record it with my phone... Got any better Ideas?"
Good plan. Personally I go straight for the fuel and spark. So I'd change it around to look like:
1
3
depending on what I found in 1 or 3:
2 if it starts with the starting fluid
4 (set #1 TDC and check location of rotor to #1 spark plug wire on cap.)
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Hi Katie,
Let's start with some basics. You say the engine turns over but does not start. Is it turning over fast like it normally does? Have you checked to see if you have spark? Have you checked to see if you have fuel?
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major vac or intake leak
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I'd make sure to let your mechanic know what you did and how it turned out.
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Soup can and a couple hose clamps for a broken exhaust pipe.
Used this method for an old farm truck. Lasted for three years before the truck finally died.
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and we have a winner!
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I've always wondered since I can scratch it to black underneath if some rubbing compound and an orbital polisher would do the trick.
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I had them both running yesterday. The electric fan didn't actually kick in until the engine was running pretty warm. I had to force the temp up a little with tiny version of power braking because it was only in the 50's, Just driving around wouldn't do it, at least not just around on neighborhood streets. I'd get out every two or three minutes to check it. Once it did kick on, it seems to suck/blow as good if not better than the belt driven fan. I'm happy with it now.
I took the old fan motor apart just cuz, well, I take everything apart before I throw it away. I guess I'm just a 12 yr old trapped in a 50 yr old body. Anyways, it was one nasty cruddy rusty mess inside. I cleaned it up and put it back together semi properly. It worked pretty well, but certainly not like the one I got from ruparts. I tossed it anyway after salvaging the goodies out of it. A nice add to my magnet collection lol.
I think the circlip from the drive shaft motor will fit the back hatch strut pin that I lost a long time ago. I'll check that out at some later date.
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I recieved a new electric fan motor and belt driven fan blade today from ruparts. They were in great shape and installed flawlessly. YES!
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'90 Loyale AWD Turbo Wagon w/ 4EAT. 202,000 miles and still has some good poop. Runs great, fun to drive, leaks terrible, and passes emissions with flying colors.
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I'm hyper-vigilant (paranoid) when it comes to the cooling system on this car.
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jono,
Yes, I have two fans. As you described on the turbo side (right side) is the electric cooling fan. On the dizzy side (left side) i have a viscious coupled clutch belt driven fan. I may have created some confusion bay calling the electric fan the main fan then went on to ask if it was or not.
In the past, I have seen each of them described as the main fan ( just like in this thread) . The reason I asked was because I'm trying to determine if it's ok to run the vehicle until I find a solution. It is rather cool here in the 50's and haven't noticed the car heating up much.
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The main cooling fan (the electric one) has given up the ghost. It spins with a little initial help but only turns about 60 rpm then eventually slows down and stops when hooked directly to a known good battery. What are my options? Junkyard (bad option around here)? Ebay? Someone on here willing to part with one?
I have some questions about sourcing. Are the ea82 non-turbos directly interchangeable? Or do I need one from a turbo engine? Is the electric fan the main cooling fan with this engine or is the fan with the fan clutch the main fan?
As always, thanks for the information in advance.
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Love the artistry on these old diagrams. Even the horn makes noise!
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cargo floor length to top of rear seat folded down 60"
cargo floor length to back of front passenger seat moved all the way forward and upright 79"
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Ok 17 mpg... Was this with your odometer reading or the added extra 10 percent I mentioned earlier? If you didn't add ten percent your actual gas mileage is around 19mpg. Add to the fact your are probably running winter blend fuel which reduces fuel mileage by 10-15 percent more, and you would be getting about 21-23 mpg with non-winter blend fuel. Still a little low but not exactly horrible considering the type of driving you do. Anyways, continue to tune and you'll find yourself in a range that you hopefully find acceptable.
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That dash is awesome. Nice work. I showed my wife this video. She liked it.
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I use a vendor website for tire size comparisons. Go to Discount Tire. There are tabs at the top. Click on "Info Center". About halfway down the column on the left side is "Tire Calculator". Very handy. Enter your stock tire size and whatever you are running currently and you will see the hard data on speedometer/odometer error, difference in wheel rotations, etc..
No one has asked if you blow by everyone else in traffic when your speedometer indicates "60". Does the speedometer seem 'slow'?
The choke should be wide open shortly after start up. Has the gas mileage problem been long term or just when the unusual cold weather hit your area?
This is great! Sure beats doing the math.
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Expanding on what hatchsub said, your 15" tires are approximately 10% bigger "around" than the stock 13" tires. You could add 10% to your odometer reading. So if you read 300 on your odo, you actually went 330. Still, that only calculates out to be 14-17mpg.
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When was the last tune up? Plugs/wires/cap/rotor/air filter? Also, you can pull the plugs for an inspection.
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I actually didn't expect that response. Let me make a comparison. I have a 5.7 liter in my chevy pickup which is more than three times the displacement your engine (and has bigger tires) and gets just a slightly lower gas mileage you are reporting. Please note that all naturally aspirated gasoline engines utilize roughly the same air/fuel ratio. Given this, you seem to be running an incredibly rich fuel mixture. So rich in fact that I would have expected it would run very poorly. Of course if a choke plate was permanently in the closed position, this would richen the mixture but you should have noticed that after the car warmed up. Poor idling, stalling, idle control problems ect. would have been some of the symptoms.
I'd do a thorough check for vacuum leaks. If there are leaks, they would have counter-acted the rich condition and let in air while idling.
Way too cute Mechanic !
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
This wins the internet today for sure.