robledo

Think I found it. Took off the valve cover, and one Hydraulic lash adjuster is completely recessed.. there has to be a good centimeter or two gap. Next question is what should i do? Take off the tower and replace it, or is there any way to pop and prime it in-situ? THanks! PS what helped me pinpiont it was putting a piece of tape on the cam sprocket and crank pulley... since the sound coincided with the cam's 1/2 speed rotation i figured it was in the valve train. Found that tip on another board and so i recommend it for any sound investigation

meh, i listened around again and the bellhousing seems to be transmitting the noise pretty loudly as well.. this has me stumped. it doens't seem to be coming from the block or the heads as much as those two places

my 1995 legacy EJ22 with a bad trans (made previous thread about it) keeps tapping very loud.. I did the metal rod stethoscope trick all over the bell housing, block and over the heads and valve covers, but it seems most noticeable at the area where the EGR valve and pipe are at on the intake. The EGR valve itself doesn't make much noise, nor does the pipe; it seems to be coming from the housing area.. but i can't see any moving parts down the two holes of the flange. Whatever it is affects performance, as it stalled yesterday on a low low idle. I cleaned the EGR valve out and it did not do anything, but it seems to open up better now. Sound still remains however. Any ideas? Thanks

thanks for the info, it's a 95 sub legacy brighton edition.. so an EJ22 w/ 150k i'm in laurinburg north carolina.. sortof in the middle of nowhere. I think i'm going to park it and get another car, and wait on it for a few weeks before deciding what to do. If i can source a trans for a cheap price then it might be worth the trouble. Thanks for the help

yeah i used the correct dipstick... harnesses are all connected correctly as far as I can see. I suppose the oil pump got damaged, unless something got clogged, which is highly unlikely. Perhaps coolant got into it, but I am not seeing anything coming out the pipes on the radiator after bypassing it I guess i'm just going to sell it and get another sub, which sucks because I spent a couple months tinkering with this thing..

Hi nah I jacked it up under the differential with a block of wood. I did jack it up high to get the engine to slip on right, and it came out of its rear mounts (had them unbolted).. I was able to get it back on however The oil on the dipstick is very clear, so it's hard to get a good reading.. About 5 qts came out, and around 5 qts have gone in. As for the radiator, I have it completely disconnected from the radiator, and running to an aftermarket cooler exclusively. So far I have not seen anything leaking out of the pipes for the trans lines.. no noticeable leaks anywhere else for that matter

I bolted the engine to to the trans first.. I honestly can't remember about the 1/8" offset.. I think it was offset a little. Once i got the first bolt on, the rest were easy. After a minute or so of operation, the sound seems to emanate from the transmission, behind the TC area., then the trans will only creep in gear, despite increasing throttle, then shortly after it will be stuck in neutral, regardless of gear. I turn off, wait a minute or so, and it cathes again, and problem repeats BTW the toe on the wheels are terrible.. they are both toed inward

I know next to nothing about the transmission, but is definitely a possilibilty From what I can remember, I unbolted the flex plate completely from the TC before removing the trans case bolts and nuts when i removed the block, then secured the flex plate back on to the TC after tightening down the case bolts. The TC just stayed in place. I suppose there was a possibility that the TC got pulled or pushed, but I dont recall any instance of that happening. It just got spun in order to line up the holes.

btw I bypassed the radiator and drained the ATF fluid..I don't see any water coming out of the trans pipes from the radiator

well, engine seems to run decent enough now after changing the plugs and wires,,,, but the transmission now is fully slipping after about a minute or so of operation when warmed up, making a strange airy noise at first from the Torque Converter area, Before full slippage there is some sort of noise akin to a muffled sound of running my finger over a comb. Once it fully slips, the noise disappears. I can turn the car off and it will imediately catch again, but only for a short period of time before it goes out again. R,D,3,2,1 will not move upon accelleration. No check engine light or anything comes on.

I'll take photos of the belt and pullies at TDC.. I guess I can rent a compression and fuel line gauge from oreilley's... again it seems to rev alright without a load, but upon locomotion it misfired and eventually started stalling.

First time poster here, I'll try to make this messy essay length post as readable as possible. 95 subaru legacy brighton wagon, that overheated a couple months ago. At the time of the overheating, i put some of that radiator stop leak crap in, which was probably a bad idea; dumb, especially as it was a burst water pipe. I got it towed and a new radiator put in, and they did a hydrocarbon test and it came back negative, so I drove it home (100 miles to home from the breakdown). I noticed that the coolant reservoir was coffee colored the next day, but I figured it was the stop leak stuff, but conceded that it could also be a HG failure that manifested after a while of high temp use. The car was not worth the repair bill, so i decided to do it myself a couple weeks later the car started stalling so I figured it was going to go, so I decided to change out the HGs. I got the engine out and got the heads milled, and put em back on. Changed out the seals on everything save for hte rear seal as well. I got the engine back in with great difficulty without a hoist! but it's all tightened back in now. Got the Timing belt back on, and noticed that the passenger side sprocket TDC indicator is like half a tooth behind the rear TB case mark.. I turned the engine over a few times to see how it turned, and it seemed fine, so I figured it was correct. Put everything back together, and the engine started up, with a noticeable ticking sound, that still continues after about maybe 25-30 minutes of total operation. I'm assuming that the HLAs are making the noise, but I can't be certain of it because i'm no expert on the sound. In any case the car seemed to idle fine. I put water only in the coolant line to run it and try to flush out whatever's in the line, and I noticed that the reservior was looking mighty red and pungent, as if the transmission compartment of the radiator is breached. But later I've taken the radiator out and have blown on the transmission pipe and it seemed air tight. In any case I'm going to flush out the trans and get an aftermarket transmission cooler, and loop a hose on the radiator pipes, just to be safe. But that is the least of my problems, because the car from the start was misfiring on acceleration, and later stalled twice, and I was only just able to sputter home, this after the car having warmed up. The ATF temp light blinked on and off, but I could not count the times.. It seemed to idle ok back under the carport for the few remaining seconds before I turned it off. I've redone the timing belt, and again it seems half a tooth behind on passenger side, and dead center on driver side. Apart from that, i've hooked everything up that I can see, harness and vac pipe-wise. So What do you think? The engine was giving poor performance before I changed out the HGs, so there's a chance that it's carried over, and was not the HGs afterall. The two main culprets that I'm thinking are the trans and coolant temp sensor at this point.. -can the transmission sensor/solenoids cause the engine to die like this? -perhaps the stop leak stuff kill the coolant temp sensor? If it's not those, then what method would you propose for diagnosis? I'm pretty much at the end of my rope and current technical ability, so I'm obviously considering a new car.. anyway thanks for any help, and for reading