338michael

I wouldn't Dream of wasting anyones time having this discussion if I were planning to do any Suspension work with engine out!!! I may be inexperienced, even ignorant as to the suspension issue, but NOT that Fooishl. Maybe just a little slack. Engine out last nite, in and running just after my last post. NOW I can move along.

The L Front Coil I replaced was Bottomed out, I presumed Ruined. I didn't consider Ride Height at that time.. Stagecoaches have more suspension. At present Fr fendewell Height at 28-1/2". A return to Stock would be easiest, so for now thats where I'll head. I don't know how to determine the NEW? OR THE OLD Coils Rates. To use the NEW Effectively, wontI have Cut them 1-1-1/2 Turns to get proper Height and Strut performance??? Don't give up on me yet, this is a lot. As it is the engines on the Bench, Head Gaskets and I have quite a bit of Blow by, but that's a different story...

Was NOT aware they were other than Stock Coils, or I could have approached this differently. The L Front Spring I replaced had basically Collapsed on the vehicle, due to a Bad Strut? OR Bad Coil? I ASSUMED BAD COIL. Does a Strut SUPPORT a Coil to that Degree??? At the time of Install I had NO choice but to throw it together as vehicle was my only source of transportation. Now dealing with aftermath (Consequences? This is my First attempt at Coilover Mod., and had NO idea that I had even done a Mod, thought Coils were Stock, Same Height, Same Diameter, Same (Wire?, Turn?) Diameter.

Playing catch up to the posts, and one mix up. Vehicle is 1988 4WD DL Wagon. Struts ARE Same as those Replaced. There are NO Strut Mods, they are IDENTICAL, Seats as well. Was under the impression that a Struts Piston (Cylinder? were TOPPED OUT by the Coils. The Springs used were purchased from another member, tried to get in touch with him to get more background on them. Point being that if the Coils Rate is that much more than Stock, the Struts ARE TOPPED OUT, Hence the Lift. This escaped me, but now thinking on it I realize that to be Effective the Strut NEEDS Play Both Up and DOWN. I was fine with a Bump, but Strut Hammered on a Hole. As to Struts having NOTHING to do with Shift Linkage, if you have too Severe Axle Angles, which I DO, the Remedy is to Lower engine. Depending on how much will determine additional Mods to Tranny and Radius Rod mounts, Shifter Linkage Length, Shifter Dampening Cube (Hanger? The Maxed Out Strut thing went right on by me, DUH!!! As to the "maybe" comment, not much help, especially when a guys already Lost in the Sauce. A Thank you to All tho, that's what it's all about. Anything else anyone may would be appreciated, particularly if you are in the Know on Cutting Down Coils???

Yes to 4WD, Fr stabilizer to end links angle seems severe, and have already had a little axle noise. Still wondering about whether I need to Mod Tranny Mounts, Shifter Block, Driveline etc when a lift is installed?

This still doesn't answer whether or not Trannny Mounts, the Shifter "Cube", Shifter Linkage, Driveline, Radius Rods OR ANYTHING ELSE NEEDS MODDED. It is NOT if like it, it's I'm gonna tear up axles. My Front Fenderwells are at 28-1/2". Anybody tell Stock Height for a 4WD? As far as the Perch Height, isn't that REAR Struts?

Recently installed New Front struts, SAME STOCK #s as Removed. Front ended up 2- 2-1/2 inches HIGHER??? If Same Struts how is this possible? Now I find that Lowering the engine may be in order to maintain Steering and Axle angles. Was looking at lowering 1-1/2 inches. I'm having trouble wrapping my head around some of the info on lowering. If I lower the engine and have to mod the block holding the shifter one post says everything moves to the Rear? Either way, are Mods to Trans Crossmember, Driveline OR ANYTHING ELSE NEEDED?

tysons92loyale, you mentioned testing MAF @ the junkyard w/DMM. The manual I have gives only how to test by applying 12v across 2 contacts and checking from Neg contact to a 3rd. Do you have specific Resistance #'s to check for a GOOD MAF???

Am wondering about my 88 DL Wagon showing Codes 11 & 13 in Test Mode (White Connector. Without W lead connected only Code 34 (EGR comes up. Is there any Tweak for the Crank Angle Codes? What are the Negative results of these Codes coming up (Power, Mileage? Is it an indicator of impending Doom? I've also seen mention of Air Gap adjustment??? Any help appreciated...

Does there NEED to be any Back Pressure for the O2 sensor to operate properly? Clean Cat and Straight Piped!

Yes to the SPFI Question, Idea's?

88 DL Wagon w/ EA 82. Recently advised to CLEAN MAF, bought MAF Sensor cleaning spray, removed sensor from Body, sprayed it, let dry and replaced. Was VERY careful in Removal, Handling and Replacement, but have suffered Mileage loss shortly thereafter. Tested Sensor in accordance with Chilton Manual. Can any one give me some advice on testing MAF, was it a mistake to mess with it in the 1st place??? Any suggestions as to where to pick one up???

Have 88 DL Wagon, mileage not as it should be. Wondering if the Temp Sensor in the Radiator for electric fan has any Fuel/Air control thru the ECU, or is it for fan control ONLY???

I see the top/ bot Dia. Wire Dia. & #'s an Inch Rate, but NO Free Length. Maybe I'm just missing it???

Although very informative, and an avenue I am seriously considering, there are NO Specs for the Subaru Coils themselves. I was hoping for Free Length in particular, coil Diameter, wire Diameter and Spring Rate would be very helpful as well. I saw on another post that these are STILL available thru SUB Dealerships???