chad barker

because i am new at this. go ahead and laugh. do tell with all the juicy details so i can go out and find parts. the wheels i have picked up are from an 02 wrx and i was going to look for the rear discs from a turbo wagen from my same make and year car but if you can enlighten me and i am sure you will be very helpful to a dummy, please...

can i take my factory drums and discs from a 87 gl wagon and have them drilled at a machine shop to fit the pattern of new wrx wheels? the large center hole is my concern, as i have picked up a set of these with new tires that are like excellent condition, so i dont want to get to excited yet...

so we got the flywheel done- and removing material off of the clutch contact area down to the .815 mark makes it the same as an ea81 flywheel depth.So now ive went to the pick-a-part and raided a few cars for hoses, belts and the idler pulley i needed and an almost NEW raidiator. I am going to not try to use the ea82 cooling fan as it is pulley driven and will replace it with another electric unit. this has really been a pretty easy swap so far. I am hoping that the new ea81 engine with air cond. fits and i dont have to move the battery to the opposite side of the car! I have had a hard time finding exaust gaskets but finally have some that will work and am going to adjust valves before installing the engine in the car, then its drop-it-in-time. Im still making notes for the other thread as i learn them for the little important details.the machinist had somewhat of a hard time removing the clutch plate alignment pins in order to mill on it, then he properly replaced them just fine. I just started a new job so my progress is much slower than i would like as i want this project buttoned up before the weathewr turns bad very soon...

thank you both very very much for all of the opinions and info...

can somebody please look on their ea81 engine that has air conditioning and post the number of the belt reguardless of the brand pleeeeaaassseeee so i can have somewhere to start as nobody around can make one available to order and the car didnt come with one. so much thanks and does anyone have a plastic clutch alignment tool to trade, rent, ect? they say there not made anymore outside of an expensive clutch kit...

hello and i think i can help. respond to me and i will get a hold of you by phone sop i can answer a few questions and help. i just finished up this swap and i have some pics i can send you too. i just dont know how to post them to this site and didnt want a phone number posted everywhere...

will the water pump off of an ea82 bolt onto my ea81? i need the pressed on part to allow the fan to bolt on...

and i want to double double check check that milling the flywheel at nearly 2mm or .815 RIGHT UP TO THE RING GEAR where it is pressed on is removing some of it, where it already has a minute step, this is a concern but nobody has remarked about it so were going to go ahead with it; just seemed weird getting that close.

well as you may have read on the other thread i did detail all of the problems exact as to what i had to do to overcome the fits. what i DONT know is i took numerous pics to post reguarding each item, like, before and after shots, using a small pointer at the correct area, so these may be helpful but i dont know how to post them. my flywheel is at the machinest now, and when i get it back in a couple of days i will get the clutch cleaned up and aligned and installed on the flywheel, then to engine torqued and installed. im sure there will be a few quirkes, but one at a time mate! let me know in detail how to post pics or email them direct....

so i think my machinest and i have it. the two flywheels compared side by side are diffrent depths, the 82 unit being shallower than the 81, which needs the outer rim ground down to the .815 or nearly 2 mm to make it the same as the 82 unit. thanks for the discription so much as we were going to take it off of the area that touches the engine area(opposite end as the clutch touches) so... ya... mucho thanks mate!!! maybe now when i get that done, and new plugs and belts, it will install good, hook right up and RUN!!!

o thank you cmill189. why arent you working for nasa? you sound like a rocket scientist. if you would read at the beginning of this post i apologized for poor typing. we are all not like you. so get some eye drops, tuck your little girl parts back up inside and dont respond to this post, thank you very much. it took alot of time and effort in TRYING TO HELP other folks out. i just dont see why you have to respond so dumb and offensive when others have patiently helped.... and as always, thank you very much for the good assistance-help like that is the reason websites last and are of good value.

thank you for the answer mr. gd. but would someone please help me. WHERE do i grind the flywheel? What is a step up? i dont know the part i need to grind on. where the clutch sits down in where the flywheel bolts on and contacts the engine sorry i dont sprechen zee flywheel, and i do thank you much...

You have tocut a semi triangle out of the power steering bracket. on the 2 bolts on the front of the bracket(top part) that are paralell mit each other you can see the right sided one needs the chunk cut out directly above it and to the left nearly 1 1/2 inches . if this is done it fits unter the thermostat housing and upalong side of it.this was the only mods to make this fit. the vaccum lines took more time, as im done with mine now. but i cannot describe all the details as ther is not enuf time, room and clean words to get it across to ya'll. pay very close attention to your marked hoses and start putting them back together one at a time. do not be in a hurry, dont go see the wife or answer the phone with uncle bob. stay in the game-focus here as this is an easy spot to loose concentration. KEEP IN MIND that if you cleaned like i did with brakeclean and carb cleaner for a handy grease remover, it also softens tape and wip[es away sharpie marker, so take care of these things as needed. folks the homework we did earlier with digital pics and labeling is going to make you very happy now. i had to run to a freinds house that has another car like our test subject and take a few more photos because i lost track of 5 hoses and had to know where they go. just dissassemble the hardset as needed using little pieces of the elbows and couplers to put it all back, routing as much away as possible from the distributer as possible, as it builds up quick and its a spot we need to get to.not using the hardset worked out just fine.maybe we even saved some weight. so now i am in the middle of formulatin the flywheel issue and clutch to combine and will post as completed. i just removed a dingy oil pan, made a new gasket out of a sheet of gasket material, and used a hole punch for making holes. right stuff sealed this up too, now keeping the bottom of the engine clean. i hope this helps the future subiedoobie dooers as long as there is a desire for these cars, just trying to help all. and if i stand corrected, by all means help and post it! dont just think my distributer is non advanced!(retarded) thanks and take care for now

You may have to do some twaeking and adjusting all these next steps throughout to make it fit but its not been bad. this total process has probably taken me a full day aprox..i wish someone had done this research and story for mich... The larger metal tube unter the oil fill tube does not let the frontmost part of the intake set down, so, i temporarily bolted it down LIGHTLY to solidify the intake and used a smooth punch in the end of the female end of the tube and simply bend it where we want it to go up and away from the trans flange and make shur there is room for the hose to slide on later. DONT REEF on this, have a buddy, pal or whomever dont mind getting 9 of their fingers black and gently bend it. The large copper (1/2") line that is kinda squiggley and crooked that bolts to the block at the rear left corner and into the back of the intake needs to come out.also remove tin heat shield. After these modifications, my intake sat right down with some twisting and wiggling, but it fits purfect. I use a product called THE RIGHT STUFF available from NAPA AUTO PARTS stores and its amazing for gasket sealing, and can be used around fuel areas too, as most silicone products cannot. now that little 90 degree copper tube that is on the 82 engine needs to go where we took the larger suiggly one out. snap on the little heat shield.there is a bolted on heat sheild that needs removed in the same area of the tube,and the 3 bolts needs to come out as they will hold down the rear part of the pwr steering pump.you need to install the 81 thermostat housing instead of the 82s, as NO OTHER COMBO WILL WORK sodont waste your time, and even weirder yet, the taller housing of the 81 goes on POINTING TO THE REAR, OR AWAY FROM THE RAIDATOR. we wil have to make up hose assy later to loop back around to the front, when the engine is installed for a better fit.

I will be posting this info in parts as i did the whole thing at once and it would not let me post it and it said the time was expired so i will start all over and do it in installments.assuming we have all lines marked and the intake is off(the first 15 hoses are just the air filter housing) so next you will notice on the 81 engine is all the threaded holes to mount our pulleys and brackets are mostly missing, nonexistant. so you NEED the setup from the 81 engine, and if they are already on the engine, remove them as they do not fit until the intake is on first or sorry, the intake HAS togo on first then the accessories last.we will be swapping the intake over first.and this is were i ran into most of the complications and modifications. The "hard lineset" that all the rubber vaccum lines connect to all over the place is bolted on the front, rear top and bottom of the intake. this needs removed as it will not work on either intake now, so i did not use mine as i simply used pieces of it, cutting the little angles i needed and straight pieces for couplers, only removing one piece at a time as not to loose track where things go, because if we took photos they will not match up well now, deleting the hardset, SO GO SLOW AND TAKE YOUR TIME. with the intake off this is a great time to do general degreasing and cleanup, spark plug replacment as there easy to access now,and remove the thermostat and check it in a kettle of boiling water, even if you bought a new one. its a quick easy test to make shure the part works before you seal it in place. The oil dipstick tube on the 81 engine needs to be slightly bent but it has a bracket bolted on and you may want to remove this so it will bend the amount and direction we want it ti go, to the rear of the engine,so then i got the bright idea of removing the vaccum pot that is hitting on the tube. the one on the 82 engine appears diffrent as it has a "nut" part sandwitched in the middle of it, whereas the 81 does not,but when i measured them, they were identical,75mm tall.so no clearence gain here, dont waste precoius time. The metal tube coming out from under the same vaccum pot housing and runs unter the 81s oil fill tube hits on the very rear of the trans?engine mount flange area.you will quickly see this and i began fixing this,.look at the tube and follow it, it has a bracket on the intake.drill a hole under the factory hole, lift it up with a punch or smooth tool in the end of the tube, rebolt it in the new hole and its done.The vertical hard vaccum line hose bracket right to the right of the top raid hose base needs to be bent to the reat of the engine as it hits on the top of the rear most spark plug wire on the dist. cap.dont bend it too far or it will contact the carb linkage.I used a large cresent wrench and pair of channellock pliers to twist it. The black hose directly unter/in front of the carb is a problem as the carb hits on the hose clamp. simply take the clamp off and swap sides of the hose with the screw part of the clamp. mine is now on the left side of the hose, and it clears.AND JUST SO WE ALL KNOW, WHEN WE SAY ON THE LEFT OR RIGHT THIS IS ALWAYS FACING THE ENGINE, AS WELL AS FRONT OR BACK. alsothe "tab" thingie on the bottom right portion of the thermostast housing that hooks to the upper raid. hose, on the left side of the intake is for a bolt tohold a metal vertical bracket to hold metal vaccum lines, in fact the same one we just bent out of the way.well now we need to cut off a slant or angle to clear the vaccum pot that is on the side of the dist.do not try to remove the pot,adjust it or bend it as it has an arm and spring that goes into the distributer.so just get your grinder or as i used my dremel tool with a cut-off wheel and you will see that a corner needs to be removed. if you are looking at the front of the intake as it would be installed on the engine start at the bottom of this little appendage and scratch a mark in the soft alloy with a knifeblade or scribe at a 45 deg angle towards the sky and carb. you will also cut through the bolt as it needs be gone and will not hurt anything.DO NOT LET YOUR GRINDER CUT DOWN AND TO THE LEFT as this is a water jacket area. do not ask me how i know this.Directly below this piece you just cut off and removed is a vaccum line or tube that is metal on mine and we are working on the 82 intake just incase boys unt girls!needs cut off flush or break off the damm thing like i did.get a drill bit the same size as the tube and drill it oust, i used a vaccum cleaner to make sure no shavings were in the hole. now look on the hardset were not using and find the tightest 90degree bend there is, and cut it off cleanly/if there is any sharp edges smooth them with sandpaper or file. you are going to need a pack of JB weld, a 2 tube 2 PART EPOXY OF SORTS. WUNDREBAR STUFF I TELL U, I MIX MINE A LITLE STRONG ON THE HARDENER SIDE OF THINGS, AND only GET THE 4 MINUTE STUFF AS NORMAL TYPE TAKES OVER NIGHT TO SET.LITERALLY.stick the 90 in the hole pointing it straight foreward, making sure u left room for a little hose to fit on, not poking it too far in the hole, then mix your jb weld- donot mix it until your ready because it sets up in 4 minutes and slobber it all around the tube to seal it off. very well done. AND FOR CRYING-OUT-LOUD DO NOT JB WELD YOUR LITTLE VACCUM HOLE SHUT. dont ask me howi know this.