WAWalker
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Posts posted by WAWalker
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Asesapie,
Got your PM.
If I have some down time this afternoon I will take some new pictures and post them.
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It takes 3 things to make an engine run. Air (compression), fuel, and spark.
If is doesn't fire with an atificial fuel sorce, then you are wrong about the compression and/or spark.
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When I do a part number search:
21111AA007 (cast impeller) = for non-turbo applications
21111AA110 (stamped impeller) = for turbo applications
I would presume that that the stamped impeller would be the "high velocity pump" intended to address the excess heat produced by the turbo charger.
I'm thinking perhaps the key word may be "efficiency" as distinct from "flow." In other words, the cast impeller design may rob less energy from the engine to make it spin, but in this case, the stamped impeller actually creates more flow.
You have it right as to which pump has cast and stamped impellers, but, both of those pumps are for Non-Turbo applications.
I believe that all the late model turbo water pumps are stamped impellers. I don't think it has to do with "flow efficiency", I think it has more to do with cost and / or weight. IMO.
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Just to throw my $.02 in. Zap, you know I started out questioning the off- road ability of Soobs. Not that I am not a big fan of Subaru's. I love daily driving them and enjoy working on them for a living and as a hobby.
I did finally get around to building my Hatch, and I love it. But I don't wheel it hardly at all.
The reason is...........I started out wheelin' a 1985 Toyota 4 Runner. First I wheeled it stock, then started modifing it. It worked very well stock, and every mod I have done has just made the trails easyer, or more fun because I can now take the "stupid" lines.
I have done all the work on my Runner myself except for $65 to have a shock hoop bent a tacked into place for the rear shocks. I am into it for around $4000, including purchase price. Have been wheelin it for 6+ years.
33 x 12.50 BFG A/T's wrapped around 15" X 10" Centerline's
Dual transfer cases.
63" Chevy's in the rear
Rear Toy's up front.
Rear diff welded
Front Aussie locker
OBA
Hand Throttle
Winch
Pro's.........
Reliable
Plenty of gearing options
Plenty of space for camping gear, and a canoe on top
Good fuel mileage
Can drive it to the trail, wheel it, and drive it home
It looks cool:grin:
Has taken me every were I have wanted to go except up this...........................and I'm still not sure I really want to go there.............
Con's.........
Nothing that can't be changed to my liking.
Now for the Hatch.
3" Ozified lift
27 X 9.50 X 14 SSR's on 6 bolt Nissan chrome wheels.
Welded rear diff
Duel carbs
D/R 5 speed.
Pro's............
It looks cool:grin:
It is a Subaru
It has been cheaper to build than the 4 Runner (so far)
Con's.........
Not enough power
Not enough gearing to make up for no power and larger tires.
(Haven't really wheeled it since the duel carbs and D/R 5 speed went in) (hoping to see a little difference there)
Not a lot of room for camping gear. I have had the canoe on top, but then there is the issue of not enough power/gearing
Not much of a joy to drive on the highway. (I'm still working on that)
Will not go a lot of places that my Runner will take me.
I won't sell either one. They both have their place in my little world.
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You should hinge that tire carrier at the bumper. Would make loading and unloading the spare easier, and give access to the rear gate.
Looks great though.
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Yeah I tried again and if I pull back hard on the rubber mount it will slide back into its bolt but that little rubber block is stretched hard and I don't think it would last long like that so any ideas or comments would be awesome!!! thanks:confused:
When I put the D/R 5 speed in my Hatchback..........I got rid of the rubber block and just welded up a solid braket.
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The SOHC and DOHC 2.5L engine blocks are basically identical. Same oil pump, crank seal, water pump TB tensioner as the late DOHC's..............lower smooth TB idler is different. Obviously different TB.
Cylinder heads are obviously different. But still use the same cam seal.
The head gasket replacement procedure is actually easier on the SOHC, due to....................... the cams don't need to be removed, and the valves are easier to adjust. Otherwise the head gasket replacement is same same.
The SOHC engine does have two different head bolts, this will be obvious, as bolts 1 & 2 do not have paint on the bolt head. Torque specs are the basically the same as the late DOHC. Other than I notice they went from 29 ft. lbs. on step five to 31 ft. lbs.
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I too am building a hatch. basically going for what yours looks like now, except I was thinking 4" lift. altho... the twin carbs look ba-a-a-ad. so, which carbs did you go with? and is that a custom manifold or did you make an adaptor?
That is a Genuine Subaru dual carb manifold and carburetors, with custom air filtration. Original air filter box for dual carbs are hard to come by.
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Sorry, I thought that you had gotten the left side out.
Would be good to get both freed up in case you ever brake one anyway.
I'm running 27" Super Swampers with a welded rear, I haven't been bothered by its on road manners. The extra wear and tear on the tires and axles is what bothers me.
I'm am going to put a 3.9 LSD together for mine and run that for a while to see which I like better.
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You only need to remove one axle to save tire wear and drive train stress when driving on the street.
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They are a great tire. Low noise. Wear well, last a long time.
I run them on two of my rigs. Neither a Subaru, but one being my dedicated off roader that I drive to and from the trails. I've been very happy with them.
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More progress on my never ending project.
Got the 5 speed D/R swapped in.
And retained the original interior trim and 4WD selector.
Shortened a Legacy wagon drive shaft, and built a cross member for the carrier bearing.
The cross member is a little over kill for a carrier bearing mount I know. But I was thinking ahead, in case I want to attach skid plates or tie into it for rock sliders. It is heavy duty enough to take a hit.
Still need to pull the cross member out to clean and paint it.
While it is out I still need to sleeve the unibody "frame rails" were it bolts in.
To bad there is no room to rout the exhaust up out of the way. But if something has to take a beating, it may as well be the exhaust.
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So that's the fabled air box, eh? We have the engine, but not the box. I'd imagine finding one is like looking for hen's teeth. :-\
Yes they are hard to find. So this is what I did with mine.............
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Huge difference.
The valve adjustment on the 2.5L can't be done in car in that time without a ~$200 special tool.
All that is needed for the 2.2L is a 10mm, screwdriver, and feeler gages.
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Mitchell 2007 Edition Labor Estimating Guide shows:
Legacy
1997-1999
2.2L Eng. 1.9hrs
2.5L Eng. 3.6hrs
Additional times:
Were air conditioning interferes. .2hrs
Were power steering interferes. .2hrs
Face is, weather or not you have A/C or P/S, they don't interfere with a valve adjustment, so the additional time should not be added.
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7.3 hours would be for a 2.5L DOHC, NOT a 2.2L.
Even then 7.3 is high for a 2.5L DOHC.
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So if an oiled air filter will cause contamination of MAF sensors.................
Why has it not been a problem for the last 18 years with Subaru Genuine oiled paper filters?
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There are three bolts holding the cam support on. Two 6mm and one 8mm.
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Yes, there are tests for HC's in the cooling system.
There is a chemical test, HC's react with the chemical and changes it's color. Tricky test to do on these engines.
A shop with a gas analyzer can "sniff" the cooling system to test for HC's.
"Block sealant" added to the coolant will do no good. Combustion is leaking into the cooling system, coolant is not leaking from the cooling system.
I don't know if there is anything to it, but in the winter time with the extreme temp. changes, I seem to see a lot more head gaskets failing on these cars than is the summer months.
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This is how I tap into that wire.
I have had to pull a couple of engines that had a tach signal wire for remote start soldered in. No way to disconnect it when pulling the engine, other than unsolder or cut the wires, no good IMO.
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Doesn't seem likely on a car with that low of milage..............
But believe it or not, a bad neutral position switch on the transmission can cause codes for IAC system malfunctions.
They will intermittently 'tell' the ECU that the transmission is in neutral when actually in gear.
If the idle seems to be fine all the time, this would be the first thing that I would look at.
I check them by driving the car with the Select Monitor plugged in a watch the neutral position switch signal.
You could also disconnect the harness connector on the top of the trans bell housing and use an Ohm meter to test it.
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These alternator belts have to be, what seems almost ridiculously tight, or they will squeal.
FWIW.........These cars don't seem to like Daco alternator belts either.
I don't know what brand you installed, just thought I would throw that out there for whom ever it may concern.
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This can be a tricky one to diagnose.
Is your car an auto or manual trans?
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I would say that water in the PDT could very well be the cause of your P0400 code.
I don't think it is the gas mileage problem though.
The cause of the water is the big question. It has to be condensation, I would think.
I would disconnect all the vacuum and other related hoses and pipes. Blown them out with compressed air. Make sure all vacuum lines are good, and properly routed and connected.
Probably wouldn't hurt to give the PCV system a good look.
What have you done to address your fuel mileage problem if anything?
Nasty Vibration!
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by WAWalker
Ok here are some new pics.
Transfer case...late model on the left...early on the right.
Tail housing.
Output shaft and VC as seen with tail housing removed.
Left to right. Viscous Coupler, Output shaft, Transfer Case housing.
This is the early model. The VC looks a little different than the late model unit.
As stated above the early model VC are not as pron to failure as the later ones, and they can be used on a late model transmission if the entire Transfer Case is swapped over. Still a pretty straight forward job. Just have to be sure to get the shift rod in the transfer case properly engaged with the shift rails in the transmission.
Sorry...don't know why the pics showed up so small and the edges of the last pic are cut off. Go to my gallery to see larger, complete pics.
I've been away for a long time...everything that was in my gallery is gone...I'm a little rusty at uploading and posting pics...and shorter on time than I once was. Hope this helps.