Vinny1979

I am having trouble with this megasquirt again. My injectors are open all the time when the ECU is turned on. I replaced the FET driver, for a bit the injectors were closed but now they stay open again. I can even take the fet driver out and the injectors still stay open. Any of you Megasquirt guys have any suggestions on how to fix this? I posted over on the Megasquirt board too but figured I would poll you guys as well.

Ok so last stupid question I took this thing for a ride today after putting it all together and it is running really well in reality. I watched the oil gauge very carefully while driving. It maintained about 20 lbs most of the time but everynow and then at idle it went down to 15. when revving up I got 30lbs or so. What should I expect to see? Would it be worth my time to pull the oil pump again and replace all the seals (I probably should have just done that to begin with)

I have liftoff :banana: I put everything back together,with a ton of petroleum jelly, pumped it with a 12mm socket on my drill until I got pressure to the filter, installed the filter pumpped it some more until I got pressure to the gauge hookup, Installed the gauge and then pumped it just to lubricate the top end since it had been run dry. I could hear oil trickling back down into the pan and it was music to my ears. I started it just for a second to make sure that I had gotten everything put back together in time and what not and it started up no problem (well its a bit hard to start since I have not tuned it right yet but thats besides the point) no more tick of death no more pain in my soul! Garner used to throw me curve balls all the time whether it was in class or when we were working together. I think his favorite response when asked how to do something was "eh How do you think you should do it?" I think this was one of his little curveballs Just his way of making me get to know the car a bit better. As a side note I will be flushing the radiator since it is already off the car which is a good thing.

So I got the pump out. It was not as hard as I thought it would be after I took off the front grill, the bumper and the radiator. Small price to pay to be able to easily see everything. The pump looks fine. I cant see any reason for it to not work. I have not taken the feeler gauges and everything to it just yet but I plan to. I think the belt might have just been slipping off of the gear on the pump. Cant understand why this would coincide with a oil change but it seemed a bit loose and While turning the crank with everything put back together I did get it to skip. Anyway here are some pics of the pump. I did take the bolt in the back out and checked everything it all seemed fine. All the passages seemed clean only think I couldnt take out was the little allan set screw on the bottom shown here Not sure what it does but it would not budge. So moving forward I plan to try to blow air through the oil passages and see if it seems like it is blocked. I know this wont tell me everything but it is better than nothing. I am going to check the tolerances on the pump and if they are within spec I will pack it with petroleum jelly and put the belt back on tighten it up and see if I can pull any oil. Anything sound stupid as hell let me know. Thanks

I found another online retailer that has the pump for 150 out the door. Its getting better. The stealership parts department is closed today but I will call on monday before I order anything offline. Sorry for the confusion about the brat/ea82. I should have listed the specs as I know them: 79 brat (with custom fiberglass fenders made by Garner) Ea82T off an 86 GL (I think), Megasquirt ECU (awesome but kind of a pain until you get the hang of it) Thanks for the help so far. I would be up S**t creek if it werent for these forums. Gonna go start takin this thing apart. I will take pictures as I go and then hopefully I can have a pump by sometime next week.

Ok I did some looking and found one online for 190 bucks. Not too bad if it in fact fixes the problem. I also added every seal that I could find that said anything about oil pump on this website. Its from a place called redline. Has anyone worked with them before? I am going to dissassemble this weekend and check everytyhing out and make sure that the parts match up and order monday if another better option does not present itself. I am going to show the cart that I made with the seals and stuff. Are there any seals that I am missing?

I had a long thing written but lost it. This is what it comes down to. I checked all the parts houses in my town noone has it. I looked through the bin of old parts that Garner had none there either(I would prefer a new one anyway). I tried to take off the bolt on the back but couldnt cus of the header. I am going to start disassemble this weekend and hope that I can find a pump or freshen this one up.I will take pictures If anyone has a known good pump I would be willing to buy it or if Anyone knows a good source I would appreciate it too. I know others have left the timing covers off what is the downside to that if any?

Please elaborate. I am at work and dont have my manuals (garner had like a dozen subaru manuals that I inherited) I cant seem to find anything online about a bypase plunger. Thanks

I figured as much but thought I would ask anyway. I will check the sending unit tomorrow. I also saw where someone was having the same problem and they took a vacuum line threaded up into the offset hole next to the oil filter threads and squirted some oil in there. This was enought to get the pump lubricated and working again. Figure its worth a shot before I spend the time changing the pump. I have a friend in the area who runs a garage. he said he would help me one saturday so if the priming thing doesnt work I will get it going soon.

yea I let it run for a few minutes like always to fill the oil pump then I checked the level with no change. It was not making any noise at this point but I did not notice any change in the fluid level. I took it for a quick drive and when I noticed the ticking noise I turned around straight away. I probably only drove 100 yards or so. I have started it a few times since then after adding lucas oil. I will check the wiring but my question still stands, what drives the oil pump is there wiring that I need to look for that turns it on or is driven by the crank?

General, That is a good point I will look for a loose wire, Garner added a seperate oil pressure gauge in the dash so I dont think that it is the gauge not to mention that the valve/lifter noise is not mistakable. I only ran it for a few minutes. I did take it on the street for a minute but not long enough to do damage. Is the Pump driven by the crank? Would it be worth my time to try to pour some oil down the breathers to lubricate the top end so that I could run it for a bit longer and see if the pump would kick up?

So I am working on Garners brat still and I have run into yet another problem. I have it running nad I decided to do an oil change. I had about 20 lbs of pressure before the change and now I have none. I do not fully understand how this is possible. I was wondering if I could prime the oil pump somehow, what drives the oil pump on these motors? Is there anyway that I can check the oil pump to be sure that I need to replace it before I tear the motor apart? I did pull the oil filter there was not much oil in it. which makes me think the pump is not pumping. I also have bad lifter noise.

Pics would be great. I am going to attempt to adjust the valve lash on Garner's brat and while I am in there I would consider this modification. Thanks in advance

Ok, So I got the brat idling and running (Finally) I am in the process of tuning when I realized that I still needed to do a fluid flush/replace before doing any hard driving. I had checked the fluids and they all looked good but they were old so I didnt want to do anything too extreme without getting new fluids in place. I did a simple oil change and then started the motor to fill the oil filter. I will confess I used cheap oil and cheap filter figuring I would replace in a month and just use this first oil change as sort of a flush. I started the car and noticed a bad tapping. I know about the noisy lifters and I figure this must be to blame but I dont know how to be sure. I went immediately and bought some lucas oil and drained some of the engine oil and added the lucas. I only started the motor for a minute but the noise had not gone away. I do have an Oil pressure gauge and while driving last I noticed was about 20lbs but now at startup I have no oil pressure. Any suggestions I do not want to kill this motor!

I am getting closer. I think I figured out some of the problems and I did get an idle. It was rough. I dont think my timing is right. The EDIS seems to make things hard if you dont know what your doing. It did idle though and it would have been great accept for the bad spark knock. Still have not been able to get in touch with the guys who have done this before but I sure could use some advice on timing if anyone has it. Were the distributors that unreliable? I still have one and could probably put it back in and try to time with that.

Ok So I finally got to working on this thing again after getting back from Colorado (which was amazing in case anyone cared) I have not heard from Chim again but Oddcomp did email me and give me a phone number. Hopefully he will call me back soon. I did get the tach to work in megatune, had to check some wiring and finally found what the problem was. Now that I have an rpm signal to the ecu it is trying to start. I still dont have the settings quite right but it is getting closer. My biggest problem is the timing. I found where garner made a not that the vr sensor is 13 degrees btdc which means that "limp home mode" on the edis is not quite what it aught to be but I am having trouble setting the actual timing in megatune. I need to set the timeing to be 25* btdc correct? I will keep playing with it and let yall know what I find out. I hate computers btw this is truly a labor of love but once I get it running hopefully I can start on the fun stuff.

Chim Setup as I know it Ea82T, Nissan Fuel Injectors (28 lbs/hr) EDIS, Not sure about the O2 Sensor, I have not looked at it as closely as I should. I sent you a PM with an email if you have a file that you think would help. As I said before I would really appreciate it. Also as far as the stim goes I dont know that I need it. The computer is all set up I just need to get the settings right (i think) but if you wanted to let me borrow it I would be happy to pay to ship it out here and then I will ship it back if you think I need it. I am going to look into buying one soon but probably wont be until I get payed at the end of the month. When I am back in NC I will check the O2 sensor and try to find part numbers. I think that it is a wide band from one of the posts that I found of Garners but I cannot be 100%

General I will do it. Thanks for the input as always. I feel like a total noob asking all these questions. If this thing had a carburetor and only two wheels I would be the man but this thing just blows me away. anyway I did find out today that I am a total idiot (well I knew it but I was beginning to think different) Matt from DiyAutotune has been helping me and he has been such a great help btw. Today he looked over my datalog file and my .msq and he asked some key questions. I think I figured out what I was doing wrong and that is that I opened megatune, started editing tables saved a .msq then connected to the ecu and burnt that .msq to the ecu. he informed me that megatune opens a file full of zeros and I might have missed a setting that is buried somewhere nearly impossible to find that is turned off because of this. I feel stupid but atleast I think that I now know what to do. I will be out of town for a week or so but when I get home I will reinstall the firmware so that I will have the default settings back and then start over. I would still of course appreciate any input as this may not fix the problem.

I have read through that a few times and will probably read it a few more times over the next few weeks. I did finally get it to act like it wanted to start, it kinda bucked for thirty seconds or so which makes me think it is now getting spark and fuel but it still wont start and idle. I thought it was just some cranking/fuel settings but after adjusting them back and forth I got no result. I have been emailing back and forth with Matt at DIY auto and he has been a great help. I have also reached out to a few of the guys on here (oddcomp, chim, etc..) who have built similar vehicles with no luck. I think I am getting closer but still alot of variables. If anyone has a similar setup and thinks their config file might work to get me started I would appreciate the help, Like I said I am getting close but its still an uphill battle. I am going to colorado to work with Garner's business partner and best friend on some furniture stuff this week so I will be taking a break from the brat but If you guys have suggestions or anything I would def. appreciate it. Thanks again for the help so far.

Thanks Eulogious, I dont know much about this and I honestly dont want to do too much to the running of the vehicle since that was what garner built I would like to leave it how he built it. I know that before he parked it he said it ran great, I just want it to be there again. I did find out that the Injectors are all fine. I set up a little testing scenario and went throughh each one checking for priming pulse and cranking pulse. cylinder #1 and #2 gave a priming pulse but cylinders #3 and #4 did not. I checked to make sure that the injectors were ok by plugging them into #1 and the injectors worked fine. None of them gave me a cranking pulse though. I am going to read through Chim's setup and see what I can learn. Thanks for the input I love public forums. It always seems like there is someone out there willing to help no matter what.

I found another part number A45-00. I was able to identify this number as the 280zx. I also found out that these are low impedance injectors. To test I will put in a 10 ohm 1 watt resistor. I am going to try to pick one up today and test these injectors.

Thanks for the input. I cant tell the difference after looking again. I think I have figured out from a bit of research that most stock injectors are high impedance which means I can supply a 12volt current without frying them. I am going to try it and see if I can test the signal to the injector as well. Thanks again. If I have to replace them I think I will do the 280zx they are about the same price and if its an upgrade I might as well.

Hey yall, So I have been working on Garner's brat (check the other thread for details) and I cant seem to make it fire. I think I have traced the problem to the fuel injectors. I pulled them today and 2 of them are cracked pretty bad. I plan on testing them to see what the spray is like but I need to know the impedence. so that I dont fry it while I test it. So the numbers on it as best I can tell are 0979 and 4Y09D but they are very small and I cant read them well. I looked the part for an 86 gl up but it doesnt look like this at all so I dont trust it. Here is a pic.