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amsisubaru

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Posts posted by amsisubaru

  1. Hello.

    Today's morning my parents use the Leone 92 to go to shopping and come back home. They used the ventilation and sometimes the a/c till they get home.

    After 2 hours, In drove to a store to buy oil and when I turned the button from off to 1-2-3-4 the ventilation or a/c didn't work. It's seems like it dead. I turned the button but nothing happend. I checked the vacum of the system, but it was ok. When I tried to turn the button when when the a/c button press in the compressor didn't work too.

    Someone can tell me what can be the problem? What is the part that make me this annoying problem? How can I fix that problem?

     

     

     

    Hi, The AC and Fan in my 90 legacy works when it wants to. Sometimes turning thr car off and back on will cause it to work again. Anyone have this problem?Thanks

     

    My fan went on and off, after a bump or pounding the dashboard with my fist. I read this newsgroup-- that the bad unit could be relays, switches, and fan resistors. I finally removed the dashboard, slid out the AC / Heater control panel, unplugged the connector in the rear and took the front of the control panel case off. Two more screws and I lifted off the rear circuit board and examined the solder points for the plug connector. Several of the solder connection had very fine cracks and when I moved the plug part I could see the cracks (and the soldered pin) move, but, this is very small movement and small cracks. Under a 4X lens the cracks on three pins were easier to see. So, I simply reheated the solder joints on all the pins and added some fresh solder to make a more secure phsical connection. Instant and complete relief!

     

    The reason the solder joints cracked in the first place is that the wire cable and plug that connects to the rear of the control panel has significant inertia. After 15 years the bumping and jarring wiggled that plug enough to crack the joints, even with strain-relief strapping. After the cracks developed, oxide probably built up enough to hold the connection open until another bump (or my fist) knocked the connection together again.

     

    I ran through a lot of tricky hypotheses trying to find a way around taking that dashboard off, like the relays, a vaccuum leak, the diaphragm, and the fan motor. Also, since the fan often started when I first started the car I though it might be some sort of element heating.

     

    Good luck.

  2. 99 Forester 160,000 miles. The heater/ac blower motor (in the cabin) has become intermittent. Sometimes the blower will not come on when the car is started. Once it starts, however, it works perfectly for the duration of that trip. Moving the slider from recycle to outside air usually gets the fan going. My guess is the blower relay or the motor brushes. Does the blower motor have replacable brushes? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

     

    Hi, The AC and Fan in my 90 legacy works when it wants to. Sometimes turning thr car off and back on will cause it to work again. Anyone have this problem?Thanks

     

    My fan went on and off, after a bump or pounding the dashboard with my fist. I read this newsgroup-- that the bad unit could be relays, switches, and fan resistors. I finally removed the dashboard, slid out the AC / Heater control panel, unplugged the connector in the rear and took the front of the control panel case off. Two more screws and I lifted off the rear circuit board and examined the solder points for the plug connector. Several of the solder connection had very fine cracks and when I moved the plug part I could see the cracks (and the soldered pin) move, but, this is very small movement and small cracks. Under a 4X lens the cracks on three pins were easier to see. So, I simply reheated the solder joints on all the pins and added some fresh solder to make a more secure phsical connection. Instant and complete relief!

     

    The reason the solder joints cracked in the first place is that the wire cable and plug that connects to the rear of the control panel has significant inertia. After 15 years the bumping and jarring wiggled that plug enough to crack the joints, even with strain-relief strapping. After the cracks developed, oxide probably built up enough to hold the connection open until another bump (or my fist) knocked the connection together again.

     

    I ran through a lot of tricky hypotheses trying to find a way around taking that dashboard off, like the relays, a vaccuum leak, the diaphragm, and the fan motor. Also, since the fan often started when I first started the car I though it might be some sort of element heating.

     

    Good luck.

  3. ok, will do, it was working just fine ,then my wife shut the car off for 5min and restarted the car ,and no fan speed , what should the voltage be at the heater pack ?

     

    Hi, The AC and Fan in my 90 legacy works when it wants to. Sometimes turning thr car off and back on will cause it to work again. Anyone have this problem?Thanks

     

    My fan went on and off, after a bump or pounding the dashboard with my fist. I read this newsgroup-- that the bad unit could be relays, switches, and fan resistors. I finally removed the dashboard, slid out the AC / Heater control panel, unplugged the connector in the rear and took the front of the control panel case off. Two more screws and I lifted off the rear circuit board and examined the solder points for the plug connector. Several of the solder connection had very fine cracks and when I moved the plug part I could see the cracks (and the soldered pin) move, but, this is very small movement and small cracks. Under a 4X lens the cracks on three pins were easier to see. So, I simply reheated the solder joints on all the pins and added some fresh solder to make a more secure phsical connection. Instant and complete relief!

     

    The reason the solder joints cracked in the first place is that the wire cable and plug that connects to the rear of the control panel has significant inertia. After 15 years the bumping and jarring wiggled that plug enough to crack the joints, even with strain-relief strapping. After the cracks developed, oxide probably built up enough to hold the connection open until another bump (or my fist) knocked the connection together again.

     

    I ran through a lot of tricky hypotheses trying to find a way around taking that dashboard off, like the relays, a vaccuum leak, the diaphragm, and the fan motor. Also, since the fan often started when I first started the car I though it might be some sort of element heating.

     

    Good luck.

  4. I bought a 1990 Legacy for my daughter 1 year ago but now for some reason the fan will not run all the time. The a/c will work only if it cool outside, same with the heater. When the sun hits the car and warms her up it won't work. I took it in to my mechanic whom I've know for years and trust. He spent 5 hrs. and several calls to the Subaru dealer mechanics and they just sent him on a goose chase with no reward. Help please. Thanks

     

     

    I had a similiar problem with my 1990. Here's the post.

     

    Hi, The AC and Fan in my 90 legacy works when it wants to. Sometimes turning thr car off and back on will cause it to work again. Anyone have this problem?Thanks

     

    My fan went on and off, after a bump or pounding the dashboard with my fist. I read this newsgroup-- that the bad unit could be relays, switches, and fan resistors. I finally removed the dashboard, slid out the AC / Heater control panel, unplugged the connector in the rear and took the front of the control panel case off. Two more screws and I lifted off the rear circuit board and examined the solder points for the plug connector. Several of the solder connection had very fine cracks and when I moved the plug part I could see the cracks (and the soldered pin) move, but, this is very small movement and small cracks. Under a 4X lens the cracks on three pins were easier to see. So, I simply reheated the solder joints on all the pins and added some fresh solder to make a more secure phsical connection. Instant and complete relief!

     

    The reason the solder joints cracked in the first place is that the wire cable and plug that connects to the rear of the control panel has significant inertia. After 15 years the bumping and jarring wiggled that plug enough to crack the joints, even with strain-relief strapping. After the cracks developed, oxide probably built up enough to hold the connection open until another bump (or my fist) knocked the connection together again.

     

    I ran through a lot of tricky hypotheses trying to find a way around taking that dashboard off, like the relays, a vaccuum leak, the diaphragm, and the fan motor. Also, since the fan often started when I first started the car I though it might be some sort of element heating.

     

    Good luck.

  5. Hi, The AC and Fan in my 90 legacy works when it wants to. Sometimes turning thr car off and back on will cause it to work again. Anyone have this problem?Thanks

     

    My fan went on and off, after a bump or pounding the dashboard with my fist. I read this newsgroup-- that the bad unit could be relays, switches, and fan resistors. I finally removed the dashboard, slid out the AC / Heater control panel, unplugged the connector in the rear and took the front of the control panel case off. Two more screws and I lifted off the rear circuit board and examined the solder points for the plug connector. Several of the solder connection had very fine cracks and when I moved the plug part I could see the cracks (and the soldered pin) move, but, this is very small movement and small cracks. Under a 4X lens the cracks on three pins were easier to see. So, I simply reheated the solder joints on all the pins and added some fresh solder to make a more secure phsical connection. Instant and complete relief!

     

    The reason the solder joints cracked in the first place is that the wire cable and plug that connects to the rear of the control panel has significant inertia. After 15 years the bumping and jarring wiggled that plug enough to crack the joints, even with strain-relief strapping. After the cracks developed, oxide probably built up enough to hold the connection open until another bump (or my fist) knocked the connection together again.

     

    I ran through a lot of tricky hypotheses trying to find a way around taking that dashboard off, like the relays, a vaccuum leak, the diaphragm, and the fan motor. Also, since the fan often started when I first started the car I though it might be some sort of element heating.

     

    Good luck.

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