SoobDood05
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Posts posted by SoobDood05
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Subaru's always look great with bronze wheels! +1 on that color:popcorn:
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i have considered using an oil additive once my next oil change comes up, at that time im going to seafoam the engine before i change the oil, then replace a quart of oil with Rislone, or Marvel mystery oil, Engine restore etc.. im thinking of taking the valve cover off and checking to see if anything is bent or breaking is there an easy way, or any way to tell? ive never taken a look at it in there, also if bolts are backing off im sure i would be able to tell, anything i should know before i do this?
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My 1990 sohc loyale wagon 164k, has developed a tick in the passenger side cylinder head, it started after i went 4k without changing the oil, everyone asks me what the noise is but i cant explain it, its not a rod knock either, I've searched around quite abit and ive heard there is no adjustment you can make to quiet the ticking, because the lifters are hydraulic? do i maybe have a rocker arm thats going bad? or pushrod? i have also noticed that a small amount of oil leaks out of that cylinder head from the breather tube if that is related in any way, i also know that a failed oil pump gasket can cause ticking from air in the system, but the oil pressure seems fine, if you have any input for me, or suggestions, let me know, id just like to figure out if the noise is isnt something causing damage, or if its something i will have to just grow to deal with, TIA everyone!
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my 90' OHC loyale is a little hesitant when its cold also, but if i need to get out of the way or get up to speed, i run it all the way to 5,500rpm and it does just fine. but if i want good gas mileage 3k shifts do just fine.:-p cant do any fast driving latley cause of ice and snow, but with 4wd theres fun to be had:brow:
Cheers.
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well i adjusted it and it seems to be a bit smoother now, it is very cold and snowing pretty good over here, i think a new clutch cable will need to be in order here soon at the dealership as im sure this one is very old and stretching, and its an easy job, so all is well for now, thanks all, cheers!
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Alright thanks for the tip! im on it, and yeah reverse has been a bit of trouble too, ever since this cold weather second gear and reverse make a rubbery squeak when they go in lol. thanks guys will update after i adjust the cable.
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Hi all, got a 90' OHC 5sp loyale, driving lately the car will be doing great, but when the light turns green at a busy intersection, my car will randomly not go into first gear, and trying to get it into first, manages to grind and make me cringe at the sound, then will suddenly pop in, shift smooth through all gears. this is totally random so im not sure what the case is, do i just need to adjust the clutch cable? is the pressure plate going maybe? clutch is 2 years old. Done a clutch cable on someone elses GL but other than that i am unfamiliar with clutch stuff, other than using it to drive lol, so thanks in advance For any ideas or input.
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My 90' loyale has an aftermarket thermostat, stays about 1/4 most of the time, on hot days or high rpm driving, it goes to 1/2.
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took me about 2-3 hours, iirc When i did my rear right bearing on my 90' loyale i removed the trailing arm from the axle, popped the old bearing out with a bar bending press and peices from the old bearing, and used the same process to get it in, it works just fine now and theres no problems. but if you dont get it in properly ive heard there can be problems that cause it to prematureley wear, and im sure the bearing can go for a while before completely crapping out, Mine did before started making horrible noises and pulling the car to one side, just my 2c's. hope this helps
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Mostly all old Subarus develop what i think you are describing as the TOD (Tick of death) its just noisy lifters, ive heard that when the mickey mouse oil pump gasket goes air gets in the system and makes it noisy and such if i am correct, if the tick turns to a very loud knock then you have something to worry about. hope this helps
-Matt
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That Really is a great Subaru. Clean:clap:
-Matt
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Lovin this thread!
i have never seen an RX in person, especially as sick as those, i want one so bad:slobber: Keep the pics comin guys!-Matt
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Heres a 69 sambar mini
[/img]And a couple "72 leone's
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[/img]and more cool old subies
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That totaly was photoshopped!:-p good find! haha i would have never thought that:drunk:
-Matt
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this isnt mine but i found this and thought i'd share:popcorn:
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This is my first, And only current Subie, 1990 loyale 164k. i plan to get a newer Gen, once i can afford it! anyway here she is, my camera settings are tweaked so the color looks funny, love to see more of your subies, Cheers!
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Hi,
Well alot of people would say you dont need the EVAP System IF its carburated, just cap off the EVAP and EGR lines etc.. (i will let someone else further explain that process) If you must remove the cannister,you should vent both lines to atmosphere if i am correct. otherwise Cannisters are very easy to replace, and dont go bad very often, Someone correct me if i'm wrong..
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Hmm, We do have a radiator shop here in town, i will give them a call and see if they will do that type of work, im sure they do, thanks for the ideas guys!
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Alright,
thanks for all the input guys! I have been down with the flu for a while, but im back up again. now to get things done! i think i will just go with the Plastic tank Radiator and see how it goes, as they are not very expensive and seem to do an adequate job. -Cheers
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+1 on the CTS, my car would idle at 3000 rpm i replaced to coolant temperature sensor, now when warm it idles at 750-1000.
so i would definitely look into that. it could also be a number of other things. hope this helps! -
Hello everyone! i have some questions, my radiator developed a small crack, i would like to know what my best choice would be to get a replacement, considering funds are very tight, am lookin at the Spectra premium copper core radiator, (100.00$ at shucks) (85.11$ on rock auto plus shipping), would these cheap plastic radiators be worth it? or would i be better off getting one from the junkyard? or would that be bad, because of old coolant sitting in it getting chunky? oh and its a 1990 loyale SOHC, any input would be great, thanks in advance!
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When i got my scoob (1990 loyale wagon) it had P185/70R13/85T's all around, (assuming thats the same size your asking about) stock height and the tires did just fine, no clearance issues at all, but now i am running 175/70R13/82H cause they didnt have my original kind in stock. i hope this helps.
Cheers
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sure is a nice suby you got there.
Hey thanks! i bought O'l Red for 300 bucks, running and driving with no rust!
I plan to get the 15" trailer rims and redrill, then a 2" lift, and brush guard on the front:grin:
Cheers!
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Thanks grossgary! i got it done in about a half hour, put it in right, got the peddle correctly installed in its place and to the cable itself etc. got it all in its place, greased it all up and adjusted it, it was pretty easy:lol: and it feels better than before, thanks everyone for your input!
Tick Tick ticking me off lol
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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My oil pressure never goes far above 45 and at idle wich is 850rpm it sits a bit above zero, so maybe the gasket went bad on the oil pump, i plan to fix that in the near future, Is rebuilding the cam towers hard to do? i have a garage to do it in, and tools, is there a write up or is it fairly simple? and once my next oil change comes up, i will be seafoaming the crankcase then using some additive to attemp to quiet the ticking.