imprezajunkie

not swap because its auto to manual but because of the year differences. apparently 99+ also had axle and diff changes that make my RS axles incompatible with a 95 legacy diff. but like I said, I'm not going to over complicate this anymore. just going to get the appropriate plug and play parts. there are plenty of 93-97 subies up here for 300-800 bucks. thats not a problem but thank you. currently we just have the wagon but spring is coming so I'll have my rx7 out again. I was doing some metal work on the underside so its put up for winter since I didn't get a chance to undercoat it yet. going to be rust "proofing" it this year with some POR-15 and truck bed liner over top of that. then if need be, I'll have the rx next winter since I want to sell the wagon to offset my costs after the impreza is on the road again. we get by, it would be cool if anyone was hiring up here though. lol

^thats what makes sense to me with MAP vs MAF. I'm just going to get 99+ stuff as I found out if I want to use my legacy diff in the trans swap, I'll have to swap axels as well. so I'm just going to save and source a phase 2 motor and impreza trans/driveshaft/diff. its just going to be easier that way. then after the impreza is back up I'm going to sell the wagon to counter costs. I was under the assumption that it would be more of a plug and play swap so thats why I was considering it. while I could rewire the entire car for the 2.2, or mod it as has been stated, I think I just want to keep it simple now. I appreciate the info on the how-to to make it work and all the things to look out for.

interesting. but even if the intake and gears are swaped to the 2.2, wouldn't the 2.5 ecu still be trying to run a 2.5 fuel wise? because of the MAP, it wouldn't "sense" that its running a 2.2 would it?

^edit: thats a good point and a very important one that I didn't even think about! phase 2 does use MAP sensor so that sounds about right. I'd have to use the 2.2 ecu and at that point, the 2.2 heads and intake for the MAF and idle system. after I get another engine and get it going, I'm sure I could get 600-700 around here for my wagon. its rusty and falling apart a bit but its still solid and runs fine. I'd get a cheap trans or junk impreza for the trans swap at this point as well since I need an impreza driveshaft anyhow. just need money so eventually. I'm sure the adapter works but I've heard very mixed opinions on the cam/crank swap. (I've been asking on a couple forums). since I'm doing a trans swap as well I suppose that the plug and play phase 2 would simplify things and speed up the process. I'll be doing the swap in a driveway. I'm not keen on using a phase 2 but I think I'd rather do that then the 2.5 heads on the 2.2 now. using the sti oil pump might oil the engine better as well but idk if stock ecu would be able to run it since it flows more. I'll have to save up for a while when I get another job but I want to do timing belt kit, rear main seal, oil seal, and upgrade to sti head gaskets before the motor goes in. I'm just going to stick with this decision now and keep my confusion to a minimum. thank you for all your help. I learned a lot and it might come in handy in the future.

ya, I guess I've been flip flopping on what I'd like to do. I guess its in my best interest to take your guys advice and try to get another phase 2 to dump in it. I really don't want to get rid of the car, I paid 8400 for it 6 years ago and its condition is overall 6/10 if it had a running motor in it. it needs some tlc thats for sure. so end of thread, I'll find a phase 2 eventually and it will be plug and play othr then my 5 spd swap which I already know how to do and how to get cruise and abs working with. thanks for all your help, wouldn't have figured all this out without you guys.

sorry its a 4dr so probably the least desirable since its auto too.lol personally I think switching it to phase 1 would be better for value since parts and engines are cheaper and more available. with all the people doing turbo swaps, they would be changing wiring anyway I think. thats just my opinion though. I know I wish I had the 98 rs right now so it would already be phase 1. it can never be easy though. My rs body is in good shape but the wagon is rusting out and needs shocks and the hand brake is busted. so I was going to put the running motor in the good body but then all this info came about. I've heard people getting phase 2's to replace their blown phase 2's only to have the new engine spin a bearing or something within 10k miles so thats what is turning me off of them. you never know other then what the seller tells you. does anyone know if there is some mod to oil the bearings better, or if there are more reliable rod bearings out there that I could swap in while motor is out?

^* I meant "I'll have to suck it up" lol. that went horribly wrong. I've been doing a lot of reading and searching. a lot of the phase 2 2.5 are having the same problems I had i.e. spun bearings and throwing rods and all that. I know that I had gold/copper flakes (like fine sand sized) in my oil when the initial knocking started. I put it up for a while but no funds to fix it. then I needed it for winter and it just kept losing power for like 4 blocks. I was almost home but it stalled and wouldn't start again. I think that I not only spun a bearing but threw a rod. I guess the point is, I don't want to deal with this issue again if there are steps to go a more reliable route. I am very low middle class (i.e. I can barely pay my bills and I don't even have cable, internet, and am in an apt with my girlfriend and 3 yr old daughter) so I can't fix things if they break really. my brother pretty much gave me the wagon for $500 and trade for our 02 buick century that had a blown head gasket as well as a long list of other problems. (worse car I've owned and got from a stealership, my $1500 86 rx7 has been more reliable and only needed $200 of parts in 3 years as well as my 2.5rs giving my 6 years of reliable service). What do you all think my 2.5rs is worth. its an auto all stock except a $400 alpine head unit, a pyle 7 band parametric eq, pyle 2000 watt 4 channel amp running 2 6x9 in back and 5 1/4 in front. obviously a "blown" engine. 4 inch rust area on 1 qtr panel, rust starting on the other. 1 fender is a little dinged up and rusty around the wheel side as my wheel rubbed against it when I hit black ice and bent the control arm back. interior has nicks and scratches so 7/10 I'd say. its silver and paint is decent with some rock chips here and there. I don't think I'll get enough to motivate me to sell it personally.

I might just swap over the engine harness and 2.2 ecu form my 95. parts are cheaper and more available in my area and they are more reliable it seems. I know plenty of people that beat on there older subies and they have 250k+ miles on them. I think it will be worth it despite the extra work involved. although I hate wiring, I can read a wiring diagram. I guess I'll just have to suck it, if I need to strip the interior and rewire the whole car I guess I will do it. phase 2 engines just aren't worth it from what I have read.

wow, the prices I was seeing were like 1000+ just for 99+ engines. 2.2 and 2.5's. is there a mod a can do to a 2.5 to oil the bearings better? I know its a common problem so that was why I was also wanting to go 2.2. I'm currently out of a job but hope to have one soon else I would jump at that offer. I have tax refund but I need to keep it for now until I find work. the 99+ 2.2 should be plug and play as well as long as I use the matching ecu right? and I need the wagon, its our only car right now so can't sell it until I have another car ready.

so what in your opinions is the easiest way to do this? I know its not going to be simple anyway but humor me. I'd rather not use the 2.5 heads if I can help it because I would assume I would lose a lot of torque and I live in a hilly area so slightly worse mpg. Am I correct in assuming that the 99+ are all phase 2 engines and are all interference type? I'd rather have one of the phase 1 engines although I guess I can use the better head gaskets on a phase 2 2.2.

^I'm in northern vt. on canadien border pretty much. I have no money really. so unless its like 500 then I'm not intrested. I don't have to pass emissions. just a visual for the check engine light. and I can rest that for inspection. I have a guy that just throws stickers in as long as its safe and no visual duct tap.lol, I have a 86 rx7 so ask me how I know that one. and no turbo swap, thats too much and this is a daily I just want running again. I'm broke as well so I'm just working with what I got. I have a low paying job and a 3 yr old so it takes me around a year to save 500 for random crap (other then tax refund which usually goes toward maintenence of cars.). My rx7 is the turbo drift project because its a hell of a lot cheaper and a hell of a lot easier to rebuild a rotary engine. on different forums people are telling me all kinds of things. I can use my 2.5 harnss cu, I can't. I can swap the 2.5 intake on. I can't. I guess it comes down to how many people agree with each side. remember, this is a phase 1 to phase 2 swap, not the same phase engines

I don't really have a problem with ripping the dash out. but doesn't the engine harness just go from the ecu, through the firewall, into the engine compartment? and wouldn't I just have to repin the body harness right there at the plug to the ecu? or am I vastly over simplifying this.lol. I don't know much on wiring. most of it comes from helping a friend with his nissan 240sx wiring and that seemed to be how it went but he might have gotten rid of some unnessesary wires too. just treat me as a noob where wiring and elctrical is concerned. thats a nice...uh... "method" for gtting the trans off btw.lol, I hope I can just pop the engine off of mine. if not then maybe with it out of the car w can get it off.

^did not occur to me. is it possible to lift the trans and engine togther in a subaru? I'm more of a rwd drive guy, not sure on awd. I'm pretty sure the engine is locked up though. ok so new consideration: if I just drop the 2.2 in with everything 2.2 and use the 2.2 engine harness and ecu, will my body harness operate everything properly off a 95 2.2 ecu? how much repinning is required, I'm assuming it needs a lot and a new plug to the ecu. what about my TCM, since I'm going manual as well, should I swap that for a manual 2.5rs TCM or perhaps use the 2.2's? still contemplating if its worth putting a 166k mile (and climbing) 2.2 in but it is non interference so it'll last 200k easy if I do timing belt kit and head gaskets. more work then I ever wanted to do but I don't want another 2.5 and I already have this wagon. decisions...

ok, the ONLY reason I was going to put that 2.2 in is because I already have the donor legacy. I was hoping it was going to be easy but apparently not since a have the 99+ style motor. the trans isn't that great either so I might as well try to get another 99+ engine from someone whos swapping to turbo and get a junked impreza for the 5spd. thanks for all the insight guys. If only I had a 98 rs. as for my rod bearing, I knew it was going. it was slight knock which became a major knock. since I didn't have another car, I just drove it. then 1 day it was really low on power and I was close to my house so I kept downshifting to go 15mph while the motor sounded more and more like sticking metal into a garbage disposal until it finally stalled and would not start again. so, I think the engine is just scrap at this point.

for having a sticky about how often 2.2 are put into 2.5's, I can't find a thread on all the ins and outs of doing it. lol. I;m going to copy and paste from another forum I posted on: My 00 2.5rs motor blew (rod bearing) and I have a 95 legacy wagon with a 2.2. I'm looking to swap but info is hard to find, everything is 2.5 into 2.2 cars. using some backwards logic I have come up with the following and wish it to be confirmed: My 95 2.2 is phase 1 while my 2.5 is phase 2 I think. I'm pretty sure they are both SOHC but haven't checked the 2.2 yet. I can retain use of my 2.5 ecu and wiring if I change the cam and crank gears on the 2.2 to the ones on my 2.5. I can use the intake off the 2.5 to use those sensors as I think my 2.5 is MAP and the 95 MAF. The hitch is, I also want to swap the legacy 5mt in place of my 2.5rs' 4eat. so, I'm not sure if I can use the 2.5 ecu since its an auto ecu. I think the final drive is 4.44 for my auto and 4.11 on the 95 5mt I have so I need to swap the rear diff from the 95 as well (losing my LSD). still don't know if the 2.5rs axles are compatible with the 95 diff. WIll my 2.2 ecu plug into my 2.5rs engin harness? since the entire drivtrain will be for that ecu anyway, that would be a blessing if it would be plug and play. is a manual 2.5rs ecu able to work easier? finally if I do have to use my 2.2 engine harness as well as the ecu, please tell me the 2.5 body harness will plug into that ecu. the wiring is what I fear the most.lol if anyone can confirm anything I have said or just tell me how to do this swap, it will be greatly appreciated as I am hearing a lot of different things from threads I have read. this is my understanding so far. direct me to links, anything that can clarify what needs to be done to make this work. If my rs was a phase 1 motor i would be set but of course I have the phase 2 SOHC 2.5.