bridorf

#'s from my TCM (7/92 PRODUCTION DATE CAR) HQ 31711 AC011 A64-000 RR8 2717 (ALL FONT IN BLACK) It is an AWD non-turbo Legacy L wagon.

#'s from my old TCM (7/92 PRODUCTION DATE CAR) HQ 31711 AC011 A64-000 RR8 2717 (ALL FONT IN BLACK) #'s from new one (3/93 PRODUCTION DATE CAR) HS 31711 AC031 JA64000 RL6 3316 (ALL FONT IN BLUE)

I have a 1993 Legacy L AWD AT with a control unit issue Does anyone know what all the numbers and letters mean on the control unit itself? I have had offers from people to sell theirs, but even in the same year there seems to be a huge variation of part numbers and the two large letter combinations of the units themselves. What accounts for all these differences?

Yes, probably at least one or two full fluid flushes in the last 3 months. When the code started setting and the binding started I replaced the solenoid & clutch pack (housing was in good shape). Then when the problem kept happening I attempted to diag. wiring issues - none found. The sporadic control unit issue was un traceable, but I found the used control unit for $15 and thought I would give it a shot - and it fixed that problem.

The TCU did fix the torque bind, Duty C Solenoid fault code issue I was having - but my wife thinks the car is shifting a bit harder and sluggish - do you think this could be because of the TCU change?

Just thought I would chime in with my experience: About two month ago I had to replace a CV boot and decided to drain all the gearboxes (1993 Legacy L AWD AT) - I have always changed fluids per Subaru schedule (170,000 miles on car) - after the work was performed (a few days passed) I got my first torque bind backing out of parking stall and on the subsequent start-up got a flashing power light. - Pulled a code for the Duty C Solenoid. Happened very infrequently at first then got worse over a few weeks. I work with an ex-Subaru mechanic and based on our discussion I pulled the rear housing to inspect everything - Subaru has an entirely updated transfer case housing that comes with cluth pack and solenoid assembly if the output shaft gaskets have worn grooves in the housing ('97 and earlier). Everything looked great so I replaced the solenoid and clutch pack (pretty worn and I was there) The other thing I noted while inside was the fairly deep grooves worn into the clutch drum and the drive gear it mates to from the clutch packs - I replaced the drive gear that mounts inside the trans. body and filed the clutch drum splines smooth. Went together perfectly (note: there are 4 options for the clutch pack pressure plate so measure it and get the correct one) Everything worked great for a day or two and then same issue all over again - after some cussing I decided to check the wiring through the harness by putting in a jumper wire from the TCU to as close to the solenoid as possible - no change. I finally sourced a used TCU and swapped and so far everything has been great. Hope this helps - and be prepared for any possibility. Electrical problems can be a nightmare. From what I read the solenoid is the more common failure followed by the worn housing (esp. on early models). Hope this is informative and any help I can give I would be glad to.

1993 Legacy L Does anyone know what differences would account for the seemingly vast number of TCU numbers out there. I have a production 7/92 car with a tcu issue and I have been trying to source one and everyone I come across has different numbers labeled on it - I got one today for $15 out of a 3/93 car that had all the same options and transmission buttons, etc... I will try it but haven't been able to find an exact number match for my cars TCU.

I suspect I have a bad TCU that is setting Duty C Solenoid faults like crazy and causing some weird torque bind issues. I have replaced the solenoid, twice, and the clutch pack, etc... I had some professionals take a stab at it and they couldn't figure it out since the problem is very sporadic, but I have had it set fault codes after clearing them and before even driving the car - as if the codes don't want to leave the TCU. A jumper was run from the TCU to the solenoid connection to rule out wiring in the harness between the two - and the only thing that hasn't been changed is the TCU itself - as a new one costs a mere $600 I haven't been prepared the buy one as a test unit yet. 1. Do TCUs fail occasionally on this model? 2. If you have replaced one before - what were the symptoms? Any help with this phantom electrical issue would be wonderful. Thanks

Yes. I replaced the solenoid and clutch pack. I am leaning towards either another bad solenoid or a bad wire somewhere or a bad TCU. It is odd to me that it started almose right after I changed gear oils - I assumed I had dislodged some crap and caused the solenoid to die - which I suppose could still be an issue, but everything is fresh inside the transfer case and the fluid is new. also, the problem goes away when the FWD fuse is inserted.

1993 Legacy Wgn - Started as an intermittent torque bind that upon next start up would trigger the POWER light flashing - happened only once in awhile. From what I read it sounded like a failing solenoid (a bit more history: the issue started immediately after having a front/inner CV boot replaced and the gear oils changed) So I removed the transfer case housing to inspect - intended to replace clutch pack and solenoid assembly - inspected the housing and it looked fantastic so I replaced the two seals at the output shaft. I also found some deep grooves worn both at the drum on the output shaft and the mating drive gear - the gear drive gear was hammered so I replaced it - the part the clutch pack sits in was not bad and I filed the grooves away. Everything went together great and I filled the gearbox with Redline synth for Dexron II apps. Everything worked flawless for a few days - the problem had been intermittent before so I was sceptical anyway - but reappeared a few days after the repair work was done. It always sets a DUTY C fault code when it happens. I feel I have ruled out the inards of the trans. (unless I put in a bad solenoid) and am now turning to other possibilites, but don't know where to go. *What feeds the Duty C solenoid its signal (bad TCU)? *Possible issues from a wheel bearing, CV joint, or axle? (Is this possible with the limited slips?) *Fluid levels? *Everything seems okay as far as I can tell at this point, and the problem is so sporadic I don't really know where to go at this point. My wife typically drives the car and hates the randomness of the issue, but I am at a loss. Any help would be greatly appreciated. P.S. - I have checked tires psi and tire circumference - fluid level, etc... - I feel all the bases have been covered and now I need to hear of someone who experienced a similar issue and resolved it.

Thanks for all the responses, and to respond to those that have offered to sell me some wheels - I appreciate it, but I do not think gold rims would look very good with my light blue paint. However, thanks for the offers. Since I posted this thread I have been getting my imagination all worked up over getting my legacy all pimped out with wrx wheels, new springs, and looking into putting a wrx turbo or sti motor it it. Just to do it, realizing it is totally silly. I just like sleeper cars, give those honda dudes a run for their money in my station wagon.

For those of you familiar with the newer wrx 2.0l motors and older subarus- would it be possible to place a newer wrx or even a wrx sti motor into a 1993 legacy wagon? The car I have now is auto, but it would probably be better to start with a manual - but then again this may be complete madness and stupidity.?

What year wrx? Thanks

I have a '93 Legacy L wagon and am looking for a second set of rims. I like the alloys from the later model Legacy GT's but was wondering if anyone had an opinion on what wheels will fit, and from what year/model? Thanks

I was wondering if I could get some recommendations on new struts for my '93 Legacy L wgn. It appears the most obvious replacements are the KYB GR2's, but would it be better to fork up a bit more cash for oem replacements? Or other options? Thanks

Thanks for responses. I will try the connector thing in case there is any dirt or corrosion. To answer your questions...The MAF was new and the car is AT. My gut tells me its the crank position sensor, but I am not sure why. Then again maybe its fuel delivery related.?

Hello everyone! I have a 1993 Legacy L with about 145,000 miles on it. It has been a great car, but has had an intermittant problem for about 2 years that is really annoying. Every once in awhile, it seems it has only happened on the freeway while motor is under load a bit, the car will lose a few cyliders causing the car to lose power - something you can feel in the steering wheel as well. When I pull off the road the car stumbles a bit and then dies. It takes a few minutes but then the car is ready to go again, usually - a couple of times the car acted like it needed to clear itself out with a few revs and then it was fine. The problem then disappears for a few months. I was told by the shop that services the vehicle that it sounded like the mass air flow meter, but the problem couldn't be diagnosed since it wasn't occuring (which is true). The only clue was O2 sensor faults that were occuring frequently - so I replaced the MAF sensor unit and hoped for the best, but it happened again shortly thereafter. This is the chronic problem, but lately the car has developed a bit of a misfire barely noticeable at idle, and has become seemingly sluggish and running a bit rougher than normal. Also on the past few really hot days on first start up of the day the fast idle kicks in but then the car drops idle speed as if it will die only to pick back up and be fine - it is definately running rough at these times until warm up is complete. I have done a minor tune (fuel filter, air filter, plugs) and replaced the plug wires (with bosch ones that are not very good, poor fit at coil in my opinion) but the wires were replaced prior to the rougher running situation. I am pondering the possibilites and keep coming up with bad plug wires, bad compression, bad coil, bad crank sensor, a second bad maf sensor, or a bad 02 sensor even though there is no check engine light on ever. Compression will be easy enough to check, but I don't think this is it. Does anyone, who has made it through this post, have any ideas what this might be? I don't want to start replacing parts as this is costly, but the car is not running quite right and nothing will reveal itself by failing completely - any suggestions please.