speakermakers

All right after checking a few other threads on the p0420 topic I have decided that I need to eliminate the possibility of a exhaust leak first and then spend money on parts second. So here is the big question. How do you find any and all exhaust leaks? What’s the trick of the pros that works every time? My car is loud, clunky, ticks and rattles like a tractor. This makes listening for a leak imposable. I have tried numerous times. The idea of going to a mechanic scares me. Poor, desperate, and paranoid, please help!

All right after checking a few other threads on the p0420 topic I have decided that I need to eliminate the possibility of a exhaust leak first and then spend money on parts second. So here is the big question. How do you find any and all exhaust leaks? What’s the trick of the pros that works every time? My car is loud, clunky, ticks and rattles like a tractor. This makes listening for a leak imposable. I have tried numerous times. The idea of going to a mechanic scares me. Poor, desperate, and paranoid, please help!

What’s up with the sea foam? I have cleared the codes and the check engine light went out for a day or so before the p0420 popped up. I wonder if driving around with a bad front 02 sensor for the past year has created a carbon build up on the rear 02 sensor causing the new code. Any thoughts?

Just replaced the front o2 sensor on my 99 legacy 2.2 and got rid of the p1131 code (front o2 sensor) and now this code pops up (p0420). When I replaced the front o2 sensor I also stumbled across an exhaust leak at the coupler down stream from the cat. I wonder if an exhaust leak is still present, causing the p0420 code. Also while I had the exhaust down I checked both cats by blowing compressed air through one end and observing how much air blew out the other end. I noted that there seemed to be no real restrictions. I don’t know if this is a valid test of the condition of the cat but I figure that at least it means that the cats are not plugged. Can any one out there give me the voice of experience on this matter? I am trying to pass CA smog and dodging the cops so that they don’t see my expired tags is really getting old! Also I wonder if a contaminated rear o2 sensor (from dirving around with a bad front o2 for a year) would give me a false p04209 code?

Does anybody know what other years of side mirrors will fit a 99 legacy? Are they the same as 95-98??

My 99 legacy is doing the same thing. The only difference is that it dose not matter if the car is warm or cold. When I go to drive or reverse the engine just spins like the car is in neutral, then a couple of seconds later it grabs violently. The car has always done this for the last two years that I have owned it, and since the car shifts fine otherwise I stopped being concerned about it. Until last night! I drove the car about 3 blocks and the AT oil temp light started to flash on and off. I checked the fluid level but I could not get an accurate level because the fluid had large air bubbles in it that left no definite line on the dip stick. The oil did not look or smell burned. How can the trans over heat in 3 blocks? Unfortunately I have to drive this car to work, and if the trans goes up in smoke I will be selling this car for scrap!

I still have not resolved the problem. I have come to the conclusion that I need to replace the master cylinder and see if that helps. I have never had this problem before and nobody seems to know whats up. So I am stuck with randomly replacing parts like a dummy. That’s the part that really burns me, I consider myself a good mechanic. And the brakes worked better before I put new shoes on. Someone mentioned that the seals in the master cylinder could have been damaged, and I think that’s my best shot as of now. Correct me if I am wrong guys but if the problem was in one of the lines then just that wheel would be acting up. Right? I cant get the abs to kick in or the car to skid or anything. All I can do is press it to the floor and hope I stop in time! If anybody can give me any more info my ears are wide open.

In the Haynes manual it said to remove the cap from the brake reservoir to allow for fluid moving back through the system. I have never heard of opening the bleeder screw when pressing the piston back in, but I have never had this problem before. If fluid moving back through the system can cause damage, what part should I be expecting to replace?

One more question for you guys. Why did I have pressure problems to begin with when I never opened the lines? Is major pressure loss normal after putting in new pads? I know its never been an issue with my other cars.

That’s an interesting theory worth looking into. I am thinking about rebuilding the master cylinder as an act of desperation. Anyone else have any ideas? I am interested in hearing any suggestions. Has anyone ever heard of problems with the proportioning valve or ABS system? The first thing that went through my mind after replacing the pads is that I might have damaged one of these items when I used a c clamp to push the pistons back into place. Though I have been doing it this way on my other cars for years.

Recently I replaced my brake pads on my 99 legacy wagon (ABS 4 wheel disk). Afterwards I found that the brake pedal hit the floor as if air was in the lines. I thought that this was strange since I never had the line open, but I bled the entire system any way. The pedal felt a little better, but during a test drive I found that the pedal would hit the floor under hard braking and the car was only capable of coming to a slow stop. The brakes feel like they actually dump the pressure! I have experienced air in the lines before in other cars and this feels different. But its hard to tell because the brakes are so dam mushy on this car anyway. At first I assumed that I had just not bled the system enough, but 6 attempts and two large bottles of brake fluid latter I think that there must be something ells to this problem. And get this after using the car with unsafe brakes for a day or so the problem gets worse! There are no leaks that I have found and the reservoir dose not seem to get any lower. Please some one help!