FleaDog

i hear u bro, he doesnt have one i asked. i emailed him earlier today but didnt hear back.

I gave the instal a go last night but got stuck. I set up both main feed/hot power wires/fuses off the battery positive to #30 on both relays (high, low). To trigger the relays I used the stock harnesses (wires that usually plug onto the bulbs). For the low beam relay trigger I used the driver side low ground to #85, and the driver side feed/hot to #86. For the high beam relay I went over to the passenger side and used the pass high ground to #86, and the pass side feed/hot to #85. From here is where I get confused... Where do/what configuration do the dual feed/hot (87, 87a) OUT of the relay terminals for each relay get routed to. Where the grounds (high/Lo for each) from both bulbs feed back into? - The existing light wiring feed/grounds are being used to control the relays but then what do you do with the ground terminals on the lights/bulbs themselves? tried searching for a switched ground schematic but no luck

Red = hot Red/Blue = low beam ground Yellow/Blue = high beam ground

I saw the kit that competition limited sells but heres the pic they show on theire site, in actual size: And they dont go into any detail about the quality of the parts - i.e. wire gauge, relay brand/materials etc. It looks nice but I want to know all those little detaiils.

I got the $49 rik-2 h4 relay upgrade kit from daniel stern. It has everything you just need (relays, brackets, terminal blocks, terminals, plugs, sockets, fuses and fuseholders) minus the wiring and it's unnassembled versus the option of paying $145 for the same kit all put together. I'd rather save the $$$ buy the wire and do it myself. I also got two osram 70/65w bulbs

Ok, i guess i will try to make the proper schematic and post it up before proceeding.

I just ordered the kit from danielsternlighting.com along with the bright osram bulbs. I saw the commentary regarding confusion about the "polarity at the bulbs due the ground-switching nature of Subaru's headlight wiring". I am assuming i follow the wiring directions as described in his DIY instructions? thx! addendum - daniel stern replied "Yep -- just use the car's original low-and-common wires to trigger the low beam relay, and the car's original high-and-common wires to trigger the high beam relay, and you'll be fine" and found this in the FAQ: "SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR GROUND-SWITCHED SYSTEMS Many Japanese vehicles, as well as a few others, use a "ground-switched" headlamp circuit. In these circuits, the headlamp and beam selector switch break or complete the ground side of the headlamp circuit, rather than the feed side. On these systems, it's imperative to use both negative and positive existing headlamp wires to trigger the relays. It is tempting to run the existing headlamp feed wire to relay terminal 86 (trigger feed) and simply find a convenient ground for relay terminal 85 (trigger ground). However, this will not work with ground-switched systems. Run the vehicle's existing feed wire to terminal 86, and run the vehicle's existing ground wire to terminal85. Now, what are we going to do now that we've used-up our one and only ground wire on the 85 terminal of the low beam relay, but we still have to install the high beam relay? Go to the other side of the car and you have another ground wire! Remember, the relay trigger circuits can be as long as you like, because they take insignificant power. So, you can extend the vehicle's existing headlamp wires to your relay mounting location. It is fine to use this method regardless of whether you have a ground-switched system or not, so go ahead and use it if you're not sure. "

I dont like how the radio is down under the cupholder... if its possible id like to switch spots for the two. The climate control spot looks like its the size of a single DIN... anyone tried?

Hey guys ive had a small coolant leak that i localized to the area around a fitting on the lower driver side of the radiator plastic side/housing. it's just above where the bottom hose connects. IS this fixable, and how, or do I need a new radiator. I did a quick search at rockauto.com and theyre like $78 for an inexpensive replacement. This is the original rad AFAIK. 180K miles. thx

update got the bulldog kit and got it installed. The base kit comes with this hardware: "brain" and wiring for keyless entry, and relay and wiring for either starter immobilizer or you can use it to make the parking lights flash when you use the keyless remote, and the (2) remotes. I bought the power door actuator for the driver door and got it installed fine. Source some self-tapping short metal screws to attach the brace to the inner door panel. a 12volt test light is handy to confirm where you want to tap into for 12v constant. I used the big black with yellow stripe wire on the ignition harness under the panel under the steering wheel. The bulldog instructions essentially describe 3 different ways to make the wiring connections: A,B, and C. The instructions say to follow "B" for "some subarus" but I successfully installed mine using method "A". Following this way the essential connecitons on the brain harness are: red to 12v constant, black to chassis ground spot (metal bracket/screw under same panel), purple & purple black stripe that run together into a fuse on the wire also to 12v constant, brown with black stripe and white with black stripe also to ground, and the blue with black stipe and green with black stripe go to the actuator for lock or unlock.

wiring chart: http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/1991-1996/Subaru/Legacy/1453.html related: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-8869.html Looks like you need a #742 door lock actuator, less than $10. I am going to get the bulldog kit: http://www.amazon.com/Bulldog-KE1702-Keyless-Entry-System/dp/B000CS9Q6E and add the acuator to it

I want to buy/source on my own the parts needed to essentially recreate the once offered keyless entry system for these years. I have an LS wagon. This is something the L and LS owners may be interested in. The LSI came with the system - more below background from what i have reasearched: Subaru made a kit consisting of two part #'s: H7110AS000 and H7110AS300 which consisted of a (1) "brain" or control module, (2) actuator for driver door, and (3) i believe the transmitters/remotes. It came on the LSI, bot not the other trims. It could be bought and installed. Unfortunately it isnt made/doesnt exist anymore. Heres a link to the instructions on scoobymods: http://www.scoobymods.com/1995-1996-legacy-keyless-entry-t4607.html?amp; Another site I found with some similar info: http://www.randomsoup.com/subie/subiealarmmanuals.html And Another (more to do with converting the LSI's keyless entry to adding an alarm): http://www.randomsoup.com/subie/huggyalarm.html As noted I want to buy the necessary components and do it myself. Anyone done this or recommend specific parts? thanks

Filled up with tank of 93 and it again pretty much went away totally. (going from 87 oct).

Sorry to bump an old thread but instead of starting a new one with a similar issue I thought i'd post here. I am getting what i presume is pinging (knocking?) at around 2-3000 rpm range under moderate-heavy load. This is right around the shifting point(s) during normal driving. Seems to be most noticeable just after shifting into 2nd gear, but can be heard in other gears. Doesnt seem to occur until engine is warm. Most pronouced under moderate throttle say going up a hill. Under minimal/light throttle/load it does not seem to occur. It was less noticeable when i filled the tank up with 93 octane, but is again more noticeable after a tank of 87. Mileage seems stable. No CEL's, but i havent hooked up the scanner to see if there's anyhting that could be there (if thats possible). 95 auto wagon 170,000 miles. Bought the car 2 months ago dont know service history. changed plugs, didnt seem to make difference. I need to pull the motor to do the flex plate b/c i have leaking oil in that area, and will do the t belt/tensioner/pulleys b/c someone mentioned earlier in this thread that could be a source. A poster also mentioned the oil pump could be it, so I will change that also. Another mentioned check the EGR system, so will look into that. Could this be indicative of the knock sensor goign bad? thanks!

Cool, thanks for the replies again. So if the TC does pull out a little, no biggie, I follow the instructions on seating it when the motor is out. Next question - after reseating it, can it come out again or should it stay put? thx

cool, thanks. is this very likely to happen? or is there anyhting to do that can prevent it? thanks

Hi all pardon the question Ive read a bunch of threads and watched some videos but still not sure about this. Picked up a 95 legacy wagon 2.2 with auto trans, motor appears to have all the usual oil leaks so I am going to remove it and fix them. Does the 'seating the torque convertor' issue apply if I remove/reinstall the motor via unbolting the Torque conv. from the flex plate? Or maybe I am confused and that pertains to removal of the torque conv. from the trans instead. thanks