RubyRue

Interested in doing both the Subtle Solutions lift with forester springs. Too much? Also do i need to get forester suspension parts from my same model year or are they interchangeable from 93-07. Got a 2002 Impreza OBS

Cleaned mating surfaces, cleaned and checked all connectors, put back together and drives great! Should have done that in the first place. Didn't notice anything actually wrong but clearly something was not making a connection or reading the engine knock. Now on to pulling the Timing cover just to inspect the oil leak... oh and the probably adjust the valves on the right side as I have been getting a ticking out of that side since it was fired up directly after installation. Starting cold it is more of a deep rattle that goes away pretty quickly. SSI said adjusted hot on the bench and said to not adjust until after the 1K oil change. How an oil change will fix a miss-adjusted valve that was making noise since square one I'm not sure...

HA, not that the car should have been driven home tonight, found a sober driver , but! Finally Pulled a code. Out of town and haven't cracked into the timing cover to investigate the oil leak. Just read a PO325, knock snesor from what i have skimed over in the last 5 minutes. No codes before the swap but possibly damaged during the swap or bad connection? Will see tomorrow.... Really didn't think I messed up the timing.

The Rebuilt Engine is supplied with a New T-belt/Wtr Pump, (with markers as I recall..) but with used Idlers and Tensioner. I paid an Extra 250 to get new components installed and lone behold it shows up on Friday of the weekend I planed to swap, after waiting an extra 2 weeks than quoted, and there are USED timing components on the block. (will be getting refunded) So I ordered the Gates PowerGrip Kit from RockAuto and had to wait for it 2 arrive. Dragging the swap out... Since I was the last one to mess with timing that one is on me. Though the new belt had markers and all appeared to be lined up correctly. After check and re-check. Rotated the crank to make sure everything lined back up and so on. I don't think it is timing but I cant rule it out yet. The oil leak would be covered under there warranty. And if I was in there area they would handle the repair. Though lucky them, I'm not. So unless I feel like pulling the engine to ship it back to have the leak fixed, this one will also be on me. I have a pile of photo's and will be doing a full review of SSI when I have the time.

No CEL at the moment. Talked to SSI. Said the Knock Sensor didn't make any sense regarding the power loss...? Contradicts what many seem to have experienced on this Forum and others. He mentioned I should check the Timing and make sure the T-Belt is not a Tooth off. Would perform similarly to they way I described and not necessarily pull a code. Have to track down a oil leak dripping off the Oil Pump. Creeping out somewhere behind the T-Belt cover. Just want I want to do on a Newly Installed Rebuilt Engine.... Thanks for the info.

Recently swapped a Rebuilt Long Block from SSI http://www.ssisubaruspecialists.com into my GF's 2000 OB Limited. I am not used to driving an Automatic though it appears I have a loss of power in the Low RPM range. Once to 2500-2800 it picks up. From what I have read it is very possible I have an issue with the knock sensor. The Rebuilt Long Block came with a knock sensor bolted to it. Assuming the knock sensor is matched to the year and type of ECM I move the one from my original Block to the Rebuilt Long Block. Not sure if I should have since I am feeling this lack of power. Of course the one off of the Rebuilt Long Block I removed is currently missing and just swapping it back is not an option. Can someone confirm whether I should have kept the one that came on the Rebuilt Block verses my original Knock Sensor. Thanks