mwbean
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Posts posted by mwbean
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Here is a quote from another thread:
check
the id tag under the hood. if the trans number starts with TZ102Z2...
then any 97-99 with the same 7 digits will work. if the trans number is
TZ1A2... (or something like that) then you have a phase 2 trans and have
to use the same. (phase 2 trans wiring harness is different). '99 phase
2 was a 1 matbe 2 year trans, by 01 they have a different part number, i
think. all my soobys are 95 -97 so i tend to forget info '00 and
beyond.
why do you need to replace it?Question #1 What is the difference between Phase 1 and Phase 2 4eat transmissions ?
Question # 2 What years on Legacy outbacks did they install Phase 1 and Phase 2 and or was there
overlap on production years ?
Question # 3 Why did Subaru install rear drives with different gear ratio's ?
Thanks
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"People have been successful correcting this with trans-x, but in my case it didn't work"
Jarl. so what was the final fix?
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would'nt just replacing the ingnition switch be easier?
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I am looking at buying a used subaru for my daughter, was just wondering if any of you
Professional Mechanics know the average life span of a 90's transmission.
thanks
Just a follow up. My daughter wants a Legacy wagon, with a AT. Also, I already have two Legacy wagons.
one is a 1992 with a 2.2L engine, the other a 1997 with a 2.5. The 92 was my first and i got it for $1500 it had
a great body and interior but and it drove ok but i soon realized that the guy i bougnt it from was a crook.
he had put black tape over the CEL and since I was a subie newbie i did'nt know where to look until i got a
manual. once it did a check i got multiple codes and ended spending over $700.00 in parts alone. I did most
of the work my self and bought lots of parts from Rock auto. but now the trans it jerks when shifting from 2nd to
3rd. (see my privious posts) I drive like a old lady and don't have to drive it very much or very far but know
eventually will have to have it replaced but is in california (where I work, Long story) and don't want to pay
the outragious prices of repair there in the bay area.
the second subie like i said is a 97 and about 9 mos ago my son was driving it and it deveoped a leak at the
bottom of the radiator and he overheated it and you can probaly guess what hapened next. yea, i had to have
the heads removed and machined. Cost me $ 2500.00
So, even though I still believe subare is a good car, I just don't want to get stung again.
so, i'll ask again if there are any PROFESSONAL MECANICS WHO WORK ON THESE CARS EVERY DAY
Who can tell me what to look out for on a 1990 -1999 subaru and how to weed out the crap from the ok
that being said i know no car is going to be perfect and i willing to spend some money on it.
Thank you very Much!!
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I am looking at buying a used subaru for my daughter, was just wondering if any of you
Professional Mechanics know the average life span of a 90's transmission.
thanks
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i'm not sure what you are asking.
the auto trans from an ej25 car 96 - 98 will have a 4.44 final drive ratio. if you use this trans you will need thew matching rear diff.
your speedo will be off, maybe by 8%.
your fuel economy will be down.
but you will definitely be ''quicker'' off the line.
and finalyy, the auto trans from ej25 cars 96 - 99 will have a trans id number that matches this, TZ102Z2xxx, with a ''2'' after the second Z.
none of the ej22 auto trans will have a 2 there. they will all have a letter there.
it is best it you stick close to your year.
have you tried http://www.car-part.com for parts.
Yes, I have tried car-part dot com and sent several messages to yards and as of yet got no respose.
However, as I mentioned before, I went to a local yard, Pick n pull (on west coast only) and they had 1 1991 Legacy wagon but the drive train+ the rear differential was gone + it had 267K on it :-\ but the next one was a 1990 Legacy sedan with only 134K on it and it had a rear end of 3.900:banana: so I'm gonna try to remove tomorrow. if anyone has any quick down and dirty techniques on quick removal of a soob tranny I'm all ears.
thanks to all.
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So what you are saying is that a trans from a 1997 with a ej25. as long as
the trans is a tz102xxxxx with a rear differential that matches mine would work.
By the way, I checked my rear differential and I confirmed that it is a 3.900 Thanks
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deerhunter, Check here
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html
Also, I would be helpful if you would provide a little more info on what
exactly what's it's doing or what it's not doing.
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Ok everyone, After reading several posts here and many others on other websites and forums I think I have I have found the solution to my dilemma.
I have a 1992 Legacy Wagon and am trying to find a compatible one from a donor car in a wrecking yard. When I got to the wrecking yard I found several Legacy's there. One was a 1991 Wagon but it had 267K on it so I wasn't so keen on it so I didn't write it down but the other one was a 1991 with a vin # of JF2BC67C3MH601589. The Transmission code on the same Vehicle is TZ102ZJ1AA. The code on my vehicle is TZ102ZA2AA. According to the information below,
it would seem that both would be compatible, excluding the differential component of the equation which I will address in another Thread." some magic to read your transmission id."
1234567890 <-- place in TIN (transmission identification number)
tz102zj3aa <-- my AT
ty752vj1aa <-- my 5 speed MT
1: t=transmission
2: A=2wd AT, M=2wd MT, Z=Full Time 4wd AT, Y=Full Time 4wd MT
3&4: distance between gears
5: 2=series code
6: A=2wd 4at, R=2wd 5f(75 distance between gear),
V=full time 4wds/R(center diff & viscuss type)
Z=full time 4wdd/R(Multi Plate Type)
7: A=2200cc EMPI, J=2200cc TURBO
8: 1=1990, 2=1991, 3=1993, 4=1994, 5=1995, 6=1996
9&0: no meaning
This was posted on this website:
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ok, so It's the same procedure as replacing a windsheld or the rear back hatch window??
The standard method to removing a front or rear windshield is to cut it out, as suggested, using an old guitar string or piano string. Generally you push the wire through from the inside until you can grab it on the outside. At that point you pull through enough wire so that you can tie it around the box end of a wrench in a knot. So now you'll have say 15 inches of wire tied to a box end wrench on the outside of the car and the same on the inside. Then you and a friend saw the wire back and forth, moving sideways through the urathane sealant, all of the way around the glass until you cut it free. The glass shops have an air-powered knife that does the same thing. You must be careful pushing the glass out as you cut around it, for it won't take much to crack the glass. Once you get it home, use an exacto knife to cut the bulk of the sealant from the glass and then clean it well with alcohol. Do the same with the frame of your tailgate where the glass fits. Make sure there is no dirt in the frame track and certainly no rust. If rust is there or you've cut through the paint with the exacto knife, there soon will be if you don't prime and paint it before installing the glass. Obviously let the paint dry a day before you proceed. Then buy some windshield sealant from an auto glass shop ( usually in tube form like home window caulking ) and put a half inch bead of sealant all around the tailgate frame and carefully place and push the glass into its final position. Make sure you line it up properly in the opening because there isn't a lot of wiggle room if you're off centre, since the sealant grabs and holds pretty firmly. Let the sealant cure overnight before you use the car, and be sure to wind one of the windows down before you shut all of the doors, so built up air pressure won't force the windshield out against its sealant. Good luck!http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=619230
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It is the L/H side window just behind the 2nd door in the "cargo" area . It is on a 1997 Legacy outback wagon.
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The refrence was made that if you change your tb at 100K your ok, but that unless your mechanic is a idiot or is greedy and charges you for parts they did'nt change. I had a conversations with a customer who had their belt done and one of the new idler failed about 5k into the belt changed and trashed the engine. Lesson learned don't buy cheap parts!!
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Is is possible average mechanic to change a rear side window??
i see that I can get the 3m sealant from several locations but when
you change the glass do you always have to change the seal also?
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code 13 is shift solenoid 3. It may be sticking or dying. When you manually shift you are operating the valves in the transmission via a linkage over riding the electrics.
Sounds like you just need a solenoid (hopefully) as it is failing electrically somehow.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33331
scroll down to the pdf file.
yes, using the shifter/linkage to override the the normal shifting if it was in
"drive" BTW- when "cold" at least driving the the first few blocks bfr getting on the freeway it works fine
this early shifting if you would call it that happens after it warms up and driving in stop and go traffic
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just wanted to bump this thread found it useful
thanks alot guys
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Every single transmission shop can pull the pan on any car and find brass and tell you you need a tranny. They are evil places. Pressure gauges with a test drive unless something obvious would be part of a reputable tranny shop diagnoses or at least a test drive.
Get the car out of there, and what exactly were your symptons.
Nipper, I agree with you 100% in my experience most transmission shops
are unethical almost always their pat responce is "you need a new transmission
and oh by the way you can finance it for 25% intrest.
the story on this car is I bought it last november and it looked ok at first glace
but the jerk put black tape over the check engine light and being a noob to subaru didn't relaze it untill i bougth it had multiple codes on the cumputer.
I changed the vaccume sensor and o2 sensor and that seemed to clear most of the real codes and nusance codes. when I checked the tranny fluid it was over-sevices by two quarts and based on the condition of the rest of the car I drained all the fluid out and put in new dextron III and some lucas
trans fluid treatment.
the real complaint i have is when in drive it shifts about 19mph from 2nd to 3rd if i continue to accelerate the engine reves up to about 2000 rpm and it finally goes into third. however, if I manually put in second and when it gets to about 22 mph i manuall shift it into 3rd and let off the gas for a second it
shifts smoothly and shifts normally. this only happens on the upshift from 2nd and third. if i happen to forget to do the mallual shift, and it does the rev up roune for multiple times i get a cel code # 13.
I was told that possibly doing a brake band adustment would help but neither
transmission shops thought that would help.
hope that helps.
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sorry about the lack of info my bad.
what i need is for a 1992 Legacy AWD 4speed automatic non-turbo 2.2L engine
the car has 218k miles no maintence history bfr i bought in in nov 2011 dumped all the trans oil out of the pan but did't smell burnt or black etc
did have a slight shimmering of brass but when i let it settle out for a few days
did have a few small shavings in the bottom of the pan. the guy at the trans
shop I took it too said maybe a bad planetary gear. bit it only shifts early between the 2-3 upshift.
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Sorry its a 1992@ legacy wagon with a 2.2 engine 4speed 4eat
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Was having trouble with my tranny shifting beween 2nd and 3rd took it to
a transmission shop and now they are telling me the tranny is shot:banghead: found
brass shavings in it. now facing a rebuild or find a good used one.
Is it worth fixing. I just bought in November and paid 1,500 for it and put
abut $300 in it doing tune up, flushing engine, etc. the wierd thing is, the
tranny fliud did't smell burnt but it was overservced by two quarts. since i
didn't know the maintetce history on it i went ahead and drained the tranny and
changed the fluid and found a few brass particles but noting to get all worked up about.
I looked up on this forum and was told that the hesitation shift betweeen 2nd and third
was probably a brake band adjustment. So, it this a
Thanks everyone in advance for your input and advice!!
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keep in mind that the computer in default mode untill the engine
gets to normal operating temp. It is not unheard of to get bad
Parts that are "new" I recienty bought a new airflow sensor and
it was bad right out of the box... Recheck the conductivity of your
wires.
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this one looks my lysle vaccume gage
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If engine speed increases abruptly on 2-3 shift, or if there is a delay of more than 1 second on a 3-2 kickdown, excessive clearance between reverse clutch drum and band may exist, adjusting screw should be rotated clockwise. If there is a braking action on 2-3 shift, excessive small brake band clearance may exist and adjusting screw should be rotated counterclockwise.
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according to my subaru chilton repair manual 1985-96 sedans/wagons (64302)
it says "if any of the conditions are detected the adjusting screw can be moved 1/4 turn in either direction.
Turn 1/4 turn clockwise if the transaxel
-Jolts when shfting from 1st to 2nd
-engine speed abruptly rises from 2nd to 3rd (my Problem)
- or, shift delays in kickdown from 3rd to 2nd
turn adjusting nut 1/4 turn counter clockwise if
- car slips from 1st to 2nd or
- there is a braking action at shift from 2nd to third.
I know this a little repetive but it calrifys how much to turn the adjusting screw
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Thanks:headbang:
Subaru Transmissons
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by mwbean
I Think I found a partial answer to my question Provided by Our Friend grossgary
during surfing other threads.
here is a list but is hard to decifer. bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&p=410885#p410885
can someone clarify it for me?