dballs
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Posts posted by dballs
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I'll have to try changing the injectors out. The timing advance shows 40° on the scan tool which seems abnormal but I'm not sure what a normal reading is.
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Things looked good in the ports. Put a set of OEM wires on and set the plug gap and it runs perfect now. Fuel trim still around negative 30 but it seems to run great. Checked the compression while i was there and 3 were at 205 and one was at 210. Thx for the help
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Not yet, wont be able to until sometime this weekend, working double shifts. I think you are on the right track about the valves sticking though, good call.
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Nick B- I am definitely going to change the wires, they look like aftermarket with mismatched cylinder numbers on them.
Fairtax- I will check the vacuum and intake this weekend. I will take a look at the timing belt alignment but im certain its good especially after what I found last night. I believe I have a Ho2s, thats what it says on the hood emissions sticker and it is a 4 wire unit.
I dont have time to change the oil to synthetic until at least the weekend so I decided to throw one of those bottles of "oil treatment" that are the consistancy of honey in. I figured for $2.50 why not try, I also filled up with 93 instead of 87 and After about 20 mins of drive time the problem was 90% gone. Accelerates very strong with a slight hesitation in the midrange. I pulled a local hill at 80+ no problem, before I would be lucky to make it past 45 up the same hill.
Fuel trim reading about negative 25 now. New question: On my scan tool, for the oxygen sensor, should I be looking at the reading from the Oxygen Sensor bank 1 (Reading 2-5v) or the "equivelance ratio (lambda)" Which is reading 0.8 - 1.0
Thx for all the help and replies
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i thought that seemed high but didn't want to blow $150 on an o2 sensor without knowing for sure
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Plug oil seals were replaced with head gasket. I will check the fuel pressure. I will check wiring harness and grounds and probably replace wires for the heck of it. Thx for the info. Will report back
Very few people understand the valve addjustment procedure and is easy to mess up on but if was running ok then mabee not. Plug wires wrong plugs tracked wires or cam timing or feul pump low output. Any oil in the plugwire holes ? and also check main engine harness is pluged in tightly and all the way and grounds on ps top of intake are tight
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Now that you mention it, it got a lot worse after I changed the oil last. Had semi synthetic in and went with conventional.
My last Subaru had a similar problem. Would run like
DeaTh unless I ran full synthetic... It had sticking valves too. I'll also change back to full syn oil and see what happens
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Probly no going to like thiss was the height of exhaust valve guide checked when head were done ? have had many lately that have droped valve guides on exhaust thiss will hold valves open or make them stick you could remove exhaust header and look up the ports and see if guides are were they should be about 1/8 inch below head casting any more and problem. Also what were valves addjusted to ? posibly to tight 0.25 mm ex 0.20 mm in and must be done exactly in the right order by the subaru clock on ps cam pully
The valves were adjusted exactly to spec in order
. Ran fine since job until recently. I'll pull the header and look at the guides but I don't know if they were inspected. Had a Subaru shop do the job. The for the info
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I am trying to diagnose a misfire/bogging/backfire problem with my 03 Legacy GT 2.5 with 125,000 miles. It runs better when cold but not perfect but when it gets warmed up the condition gets real bad. It has trouble climbing hills and accelerating, it backfires, pops, shakes and runs horrible.
Plugs are only 10,000 miles old and were gapped to spec, wires look to be in good condition, fuel filter is 3000 miles old. valves were adjusted 10,000 miles ago along with new head gaskets, timing belt and all that good stuff. If I run 93 octane the condition gets better but is not gone completely. My scan tool shows the following on a long drive:
SHRTFT1=0.8
LONGFT1=0.0
SHRTFT3= (-28.1)
LONGFT3= (-28.1)
Front oxygen sensor is reading 2-5 volts, fluctuating but averaging about 4v
Had a flashing check engine light once, shut car off and restarted and it never came back. Showed misfire on cyl3. After that No codes ever returned. If i feather the throttle VERY lightly it will drive ok but anymore than 5-10% it runs bad. I tried unplugging the front o2 sensor and running it and it had no change. There is no exhaust leaks, no vacuum leaks. Stumped and do not want to start throwing unnecessary parts at it unless I run out of options.
According to what I have read, it is running rich or the computer thinks it is and it could be, coil pack, front o2 sensor, stuck open injector, bad wires, bad fuel pressure regulator. The fact that it runs a little better cold makes me think o2 sensor or coil. Any thoughts???
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I asked him but he replied with "we don't use shop towels when we do head-gaskets" and I got nowhere. I think I am going to send the oil sample out to blackstone and have them take a look to see how much metal is in it.
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Update: Still holding strong pressure, 80 psi on startup. 40psi cruising. Hopefully the internals hold up for the long haul.
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If your worried about the cel and inspection test, the 96 is exempt from the laws. Every time the car is shut down, it clears the computer and the readiness monitors are never ready. Clear the light, pull it into shop for inspection.
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Thanks for the replies, they both make sense and to be honest I don't know exactly where the crack was before. It was cracked all over the bottom. I will be there when they put the next one in to inspect the pinchweld and also for anything that it may rest on if it were to slide down.
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I have had 3 windshields put in my 03 Legacy GT in the past year. Every time a new one gets installed it cracks as soon as I hit the heated Windshield button for the wipers.
Any thoughts?? I haven't paid a nickle for any of them but its getting annoying. I guess I could stop pushing the button.
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Well... while changing the oil I decided to take a look at the steering components in my OBW, and I think I found the source of the wobble I had mentioned: one of the balljoints is busted (yay!). Somehow this became evident only when moving the wheel at an angle (hands at 2 and 8), so it had eluded detection until now.
Anyway... while checking stuff I found that both balljoint boots and one of the steering rack boots are split open. I'm replacing at least one of the balljoints, and maybe the other one, but the questions I have are about the steering rack boots:
- I can't feel any relative movement between the (semi-exposed) inner tie rod end and the steering rack. Is it ok to just reboot this thing, or now that it's exposed will it fail in a couple of months and I should replace the whole inner tie rod end instead?
- If just rebooting, how should I clean the (presumably contaminated) grease from the tie rod joint?
- When buying tierods do they normally come with the boot (can't find any mention of it on Rockauto)?
hanks!
Tie rods do not come with (Steering rack)boots. I would definitely change only the boots if there is no play in the joint. Use a blow gun and clean the exposed joint out or wipe it clean with a rag if no compressor is available and put some fresh grease on it.
Also as someone else mentioned, use OEM Subaru boots. They are not too bad to change, Pop outer tie rod out of knuckle and unthread it off the inner rod. Then you can pull boot off.
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I installed a brass T under the alternator, It's not the best pic but the stock sender is facing the drivers side headlight. and the pressure hose comes out of the top. I all fits under the alternator nice, I had to extend the stock sender wire a few inches.
Also, I believe the stock sender port is British Pipe Threads, The brass tee is National pipe threads, British pipe is 28 threads per inch and National is 27 threads per inch. Just put dope on the threads and tighten it up, It wont leak.
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Oh wow that sounds nothing like what I was describing. Sounds like a heat shield laying on the drive shaft.
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-Keep your brake fluid flushed out and fresh every year. I had a 96 that I drove from 120,000-318,000 miles over the course of 7 years and never put a caliper or and brake components affected by fluid. ABS still worked at 318k when I traded it.
-I would leave Idle air, mass air and throttle position alone unless they are giving you problems. I had to put one TPS sensor on though.
-Change front and rear diff fluid.
-Don't buy cheap plug wires they will leave you with more trouble.
-If you get a misfire code and a slight hesitation/ loss of power under load/ flashing check engine light, SHUT the car down for a few mins and try again. Check for obvious things such as loose plug wires but also get home and switch to SYNTHETIC OIL. I had non stop misfire codes and flashing check engine lights. I changed injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, and a couple other things and the fix ended up being FULL SYNTHETIC OIL. From what I read some of the engines in this era had bad valve guides and the valves would stick from time to time under load. The fix: Either have a machine shop do a rebuild to the heads or try some slippery synthetic oil. For me the Synthetic worked.
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This may or may not be the same situation but I had a 96 with a similar problem. It was only noticeable at cruising speed and either a very light amount of throttle or just slightly off throttle and coasting. If I hit the gas hard or let off hard the noise was not there. I was always waiting for it to get worse but it never did. I waited from 120,000 miles until 318,000 miles and it never got better or worse and I never found out what it was.
If its a very light whine I would wait it out and see if it gets worse.
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I would be willing to bet you are right. I was thinking the same or somewhere under the valve cover and got chewed up by the valve train and dumped into the pan.
I did a test run with it tonight and everything was good. No more oil pump whine, Oil pressure almost instantly instead of waiting 4-5 seconds. Also, so far there is no burning oil when I stop anymore. I assume because the crankcase has airflow and is not building pressure and pushing oil out everywhere.
Before, every time it was stopped and idling I would have to shut the blower motor off or open windows because it smoked so bad from leaking oil.
I'll just have to keep an eye on the metal content of the oil and hopefully this paper towel nonsense didn't shave too many miles off its life.
Tangent: This probably could have been caught 6 months ago if they would put Oil pressure gauges in the cluster as well. It drive me nuts that it's just a dummy light. How about both, most people can read a gauge. I guess I have to put my own in if I want one.
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Cold Start PSI! Got some pressure now. At cruising speed 2250 rpms the pressure is about 40psi.
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I just recently traded in my 96 legacy 2.2, it had 318,000 miles on it. I owned it from 115,000. Still had original engine, ice cold air and working abs! Did quite a bit of work to it over the years but it only left me stranded twice, One blown radiator hose and one dead fuel pump. Keep up on the preventative maintenance and it will treat you well!
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Does anyone know where this hole leads to??
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Has the separator plate ever been replaced? I think the only way to get a paper towel in there would be to remove the plate. Either that or roll it up and stuff it down into the breather port on top of the block. Possibly someone replaced the oil pan at some point in the past and stuffed a paper towel into there from below and forgot it?
I replaced the separator plate a year and a half ago, I also had the oil pan off to reseal it.. and know for sure I didn't put one up there.
I had my head gaskets done this past June and he may have had the separator plate off then. I am going to try and call the guy tomorrow.
just bought a 96 legacy 2.2 L wagon. A few questions
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I had a 96 2.2 and ran it from 120,000 to 318,000 miles, It was an awesome car. This make model and year happens to be exempt from state emissions OBDII inspection if they plug it in at inspection time in your state. The computer completely clears its self when you shut the key off every time so the Monitors are never "Ready". Just something to keep in mind when you have a light on at inspection time, just clear it and pull it in the shop.