dballs
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Everything posted by dballs
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I had a 96 2.2 and ran it from 120,000 to 318,000 miles, It was an awesome car. This make model and year happens to be exempt from state emissions OBDII inspection if they plug it in at inspection time in your state. The computer completely clears its self when you shut the key off every time so the Monitors are never "Ready". Just something to keep in mind when you have a light on at inspection time, just clear it and pull it in the shop.
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Nick B- I am definitely going to change the wires, they look like aftermarket with mismatched cylinder numbers on them. Fairtax- I will check the vacuum and intake this weekend. I will take a look at the timing belt alignment but im certain its good especially after what I found last night. I believe I have a Ho2s, thats what it says on the hood emissions sticker and it is a 4 wire unit. I dont have time to change the oil to synthetic until at least the weekend so I decided to throw one of those bottles of "oil treatment" that are the consistancy of honey in. I figured for $2.50 why not try, I also filled up with 93 instead of 87 and After about 20 mins of drive time the problem was 90% gone. Accelerates very strong with a slight hesitation in the midrange. I pulled a local hill at 80+ no problem, before I would be lucky to make it past 45 up the same hill. Fuel trim reading about negative 25 now. New question: On my scan tool, for the oxygen sensor, should I be looking at the reading from the Oxygen Sensor bank 1 (Reading 2-5v) or the "equivelance ratio (lambda)" Which is reading 0.8 - 1.0 Thx for all the help and replies
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Now that you mention it, it got a lot worse after I changed the oil last. Had semi synthetic in and went with conventional. My last Subaru had a similar problem. Would run like DeaTh unless I ran full synthetic... It had sticking valves too. I'll also change back to full syn oil and see what happens
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I am trying to diagnose a misfire/bogging/backfire problem with my 03 Legacy GT 2.5 with 125,000 miles. It runs better when cold but not perfect but when it gets warmed up the condition gets real bad. It has trouble climbing hills and accelerating, it backfires, pops, shakes and runs horrible. Plugs are only 10,000 miles old and were gapped to spec, wires look to be in good condition, fuel filter is 3000 miles old. valves were adjusted 10,000 miles ago along with new head gaskets, timing belt and all that good stuff. If I run 93 octane the condition gets better but is not gone completely. My scan tool shows the following on a long drive: SHRTFT1=0.8 LONGFT1=0.0 SHRTFT3= (-28.1) LONGFT3= (-28.1) Front oxygen sensor is reading 2-5 volts, fluctuating but averaging about 4v Had a flashing check engine light once, shut car off and restarted and it never came back. Showed misfire on cyl3. After that No codes ever returned. If i feather the throttle VERY lightly it will drive ok but anymore than 5-10% it runs bad. I tried unplugging the front o2 sensor and running it and it had no change. There is no exhaust leaks, no vacuum leaks. Stumped and do not want to start throwing unnecessary parts at it unless I run out of options. According to what I have read, it is running rich or the computer thinks it is and it could be, coil pack, front o2 sensor, stuck open injector, bad wires, bad fuel pressure regulator. The fact that it runs a little better cold makes me think o2 sensor or coil. Any thoughts???
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Tie rods do not come with (Steering rack)boots. I would definitely change only the boots if there is no play in the joint. Use a blow gun and clean the exposed joint out or wipe it clean with a rag if no compressor is available and put some fresh grease on it. Also as someone else mentioned, use OEM Subaru boots. They are not too bad to change, Pop outer tie rod out of knuckle and unthread it off the inner rod. Then you can pull boot off.
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I installed a brass T under the alternator, It's not the best pic but the stock sender is facing the drivers side headlight. and the pressure hose comes out of the top. I all fits under the alternator nice, I had to extend the stock sender wire a few inches. Also, I believe the stock sender port is British Pipe Threads, The brass tee is National pipe threads, British pipe is 28 threads per inch and National is 27 threads per inch. Just put dope on the threads and tighten it up, It wont leak.
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-Keep your brake fluid flushed out and fresh every year. I had a 96 that I drove from 120,000-318,000 miles over the course of 7 years and never put a caliper or and brake components affected by fluid. ABS still worked at 318k when I traded it. -I would leave Idle air, mass air and throttle position alone unless they are giving you problems. I had to put one TPS sensor on though. -Change front and rear diff fluid. -Don't buy cheap plug wires they will leave you with more trouble. -If you get a misfire code and a slight hesitation/ loss of power under load/ flashing check engine light, SHUT the car down for a few mins and try again. Check for obvious things such as loose plug wires but also get home and switch to SYNTHETIC OIL. I had non stop misfire codes and flashing check engine lights. I changed injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, and a couple other things and the fix ended up being FULL SYNTHETIC OIL. From what I read some of the engines in this era had bad valve guides and the valves would stick from time to time under load. The fix: Either have a machine shop do a rebuild to the heads or try some slippery synthetic oil. For me the Synthetic worked.
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This may or may not be the same situation but I had a 96 with a similar problem. It was only noticeable at cruising speed and either a very light amount of throttle or just slightly off throttle and coasting. If I hit the gas hard or let off hard the noise was not there. I was always waiting for it to get worse but it never did. I waited from 120,000 miles until 318,000 miles and it never got better or worse and I never found out what it was. If its a very light whine I would wait it out and see if it gets worse.
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I would be willing to bet you are right. I was thinking the same or somewhere under the valve cover and got chewed up by the valve train and dumped into the pan. I did a test run with it tonight and everything was good. No more oil pump whine, Oil pressure almost instantly instead of waiting 4-5 seconds. Also, so far there is no burning oil when I stop anymore. I assume because the crankcase has airflow and is not building pressure and pushing oil out everywhere. Before, every time it was stopped and idling I would have to shut the blower motor off or open windows because it smoked so bad from leaking oil. I'll just have to keep an eye on the metal content of the oil and hopefully this paper towel nonsense didn't shave too many miles off its life. Tangent: This probably could have been caught 6 months ago if they would put Oil pressure gauges in the cluster as well. It drive me nuts that it's just a dummy light. How about both, most people can read a gauge. I guess I have to put my own in if I want one.
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New member, Legacy Outback, 96!!
dballs replied to Dennis Hastings's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
I just recently traded in my 96 legacy 2.2, it had 318,000 miles on it. I owned it from 115,000. Still had original engine, ice cold air and working abs! Did quite a bit of work to it over the years but it only left me stranded twice, One blown radiator hose and one dead fuel pump. Keep up on the preventative maintenance and it will treat you well!