
dballs
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That is good to know, I scoured the internet last night trying to find out if that hole led inside the oil separator plate. Thanks for the pic! I did take a shop vac and a small snap on pick with a hook on it and pulled a ton out of there today. When the vacuum is on the hole it sounds like it's free flowing now and I believe I have it all out.
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One more question, Does anyone know what the direction of flow is for that PCV in the back of the pan. I assume it pushes downward from the block into the oil pan because if it was the opposite, I assume it would suck oil up. I am trying to narrow down where the paper towel could have been left and how it would have got chewed up, Valve train perhaps?? Also trying to figure out how many other passages are stuffed with paper. THANKS!
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Thanks for the replies, I had the pump off first and disassembled it completely and put the feeler gauge to it. Everything was within spec and looked good. I also checked all the passages behind the oil pump and they looked good. johnceggleston: Is this MMO you speak of marble mystery oil? I was definitely thinking about running something of that nature or some engine restore?? And changing it a few hundred miles later. I also thought about sending the oil to Blackstone labs at the next change and see what they find, It might be an indicator of bearing wear. Any Ideas on how to get all of the paper out of the hole in the back of the block? I am going to pull the PCV and blow compressed air down there and also thought about a kerosene flush. I am also going to tape a 1/2" hose on a shop vac and try sucking some out from the bottom as well. After I got the car back from the Headgasket job it didn't leak much oil but slowly got worse, A friend pointed out that it may be because the PCV system was clogged and building pressure and pushing oil out of places it shouldn't have.
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I had an intermittant oil light and pulled the pan only to find the pick up tube clogged with what looks like oil filter paper media. I cut the filter open and it looked normal. What is that other tube that is welded into the pan that has an o-ring on it?? It leads to a hole in the block THAT IS ALSO FULL OF PAPER!! I am baffled and the only thing i can think of is the guy who did my head gaskets this summer left a paper towel in the engine somewhere.... Or is it possible a filter blew apart and all of the paper got in the engine. I will load some pics so you can see. Any thoughts??
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All of the dealers I called in my area said they were not available. I went to an auto electric shop and they matched up the ones I brought in. It was around $5 If you post what dealer you are buying them from people could call and have them shipped anywhere. My dealer is close to an hour away so I have parts shipped all the time. I don't see why they wouldn't
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Also you shouldn't need a puller for the pulley, they usually come right off. I stick a punch or pry bar or large screwdriver in the access hole for the torque converter bolts to hold it from turning. I think there is a holder for the crank pulley but this always worked. Sold my 96 with 318k on it and had it apart countless times with no issue using this method. If you are doing the cam seals too, break the bolts free but leave them snug before you take the belt off and it will be a lot easier.
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It does have chains to drive the wheels. I haven't opened the cases up yet but I have some spare chain in a bucket and its huge. It's about an inch wide or maybe a little bigger, and the rollers are a half inch or so. According to the Poncin tag on the machine it was made in France.
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Yea I am going to get on the forum of 6x6world. As far as I can tell the two brake calipers are mounted to the transmission even in the cars this engine/trans came out of.
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There was one of these in my family when I was a kid and it was a blast, I saw it on craigslist the other day and had to snag it. There was two in the area and I determined that this is the one we didn't have. They were both sold by a relative at the same time 12 years ago. It was running like death when I picked it up but it had enough power to drive on the trailer. Long story short, I determined that I had fuel, spark and NO compression in one cylinder. After taking the valve cover off I spotted the problem, the push rod popped off the rocker arm and got stuck in there just right and that valve was stuck open. I pulled it apart and put it back together, Adjusted all of the valves and it runs great now! I am thinking the valve lash got so far out of spec that the rod was able to fall out, or it got over reved. I hope it stays in there. It has a Citroen 650cc fan cooled twin with a 4 speed transmission. It also has a Citroen brake and electrical system. The parts are a pain in the butt to find but they are out there (mostly in France). I have searched high and low online for days and found virtually NOTHING on the vehicle it's self. It is a PONCIN SNOW FLY. If anyone has any info or knows anyone with one lets hear about it! The "vehicle number" on the tag is 80, so I assume there is not many out there.
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I had this SAME EXACT problem with my 96 2.2. After changing almost everything you did and doing extensive research online I found that some of the 2.2's had bad valve guides and the valves would randomly not seat right (usually under heavier load). The fix: A valve job or try running fully synthetic oil. The theory with the synthetic is it makes it just a bit more slippery and allows the valves to move as they normally would. I had to run FULL synthetic oil in mine from 150,000 to 318k or it went back to the misfire nonsense. This is also why it just throws misfire codes. It also is confusing because mechanical problems are not usually intermittent and random. If I switched back to conventional oil, it did not take long to start misfiring again. I can't say this will fix your problem but it may