schekan

So that would explain why the ebay one i bought threw the codes related to an auto trans. As far as these not failing without a reason i could see your point. But why is the car running fine with an ecu from another vehicle although its the incorrect one. but it runs fine (Except for the CEL) if i had a component failing or shorting it would still fail with this ECU. I may call Subaru and see how much they want to flash it. And see if that helps. The car is Not drivable with the original ECU. I will find out monday what they want to do it. Thanks for the feedback

OK, first thanks for the feed back. Let go into this a little more. I have an 02 outback. the original ECU does NOT throw any codes at all. As far as my idle, all components have been swapped and my TPS is brand new. IAC has been replaced 3 times with bone yard picks that looked brand new. (I have several u-pick yards up my way) Nothing could control the idle. When shifting in between gears it would rise at a steady pace to around 4000 rpm and sometimes higher. almost like the cable was stuck also surging. I have read in this forum and others that Subaru's require Re-flashing of the ecu sometimes for idle and other issues. My ECU has the Atmospheric preasure sensor attached to the board itself.. I know this for a fact. So when I pulled the ECU out of the car at the junk yard i plugged it in. Car runs and idles fine for around a year now and 25,000 miles. It does throw the Atmospheric preasure sensor voltage out off range code. I thought if it's just a bad sensor on my Junkyard doner I will de-solder it from my original and move it over to doner from the "01" Well the "01" does not have this sensor on it. Thus the reason I have a solid CEL for that one code. As far as components causing my idle issue I think i just disproved that. The original ECU is telling it to idle the way it is. And I would like to get an original so the light will go out. Or take the car to Subaru and have it flashed. My issue with re-flashing it is something cause the ROM to get corrupted, and if i flash it it may only be a temp fix as whatever caused it to go bad the first time will certainly cause it again. So my real question is. Does it matter if the ECU comes from an automatic or standard for an "02" outback? ECU D6M 1T 22611 AG53A JA18000 D6M This is the tag numbers from the original. When bying from a junk yard or ebay it is listed as just the ecu. Some will go as far as to say it was from an automatic.

My ecu is the original. I dont remember the code #'s but both were related to the torque converter. It was used from ebay, maybe it was bad. I got my money back. As far as my problem, my original ecu has crazy idle problems. It does not throw any codes. Just crazy idle. I know it is ecu related because i found an outback in a u pull it bone yard. It was an 01, numbers were different but plugs were the same. So for $15 i said what the hell. I plugged it in and the car idles great, runs good as well. Its running a little rich with this ecu and the CEL is on solid. The code is for the "atmospheric preasure sensor" on my ecu the sensor is located on the ECU board. This ECU does not have it, so it throws that code. So in a nutshell i want to put a good ECU in it so it will run normal and no CEL. THANKS for the reply by the way..

I need to replace my ECU. Does it matter if it is from a manual or an automatic for this year? I have a manual trans and bought one from ebay. Same numbers as the one i pulled. I installed it and ran it for about 20 minutes. I shut it down and checked it with my OBD2 reader just to see if it had any lingering codes. All was good and no CEL. The next day i started it and after 5 minutes running it through 2 codes related to the torque converter. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks....

OK this thread this person had the same issue, Seems that the pins you check are 16 and 17. not 15 and 17 as the diagram shows. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1060234 I did that and got it adjusted. Seems to be working ok for now. Thanks for all the help offered by everyone. I appreciate it.

I found the following listed below in another forum. I have a 4 wire TPS. I think this is the info I am looking for. As per the first link it states voltage should be 4.7 closed. Any other ideas? At least this is in the balpark of the voltage for my unit. I can get to go from 4.4 to 5.1 by moving it. Also my car is Cali emission if that means anything. Unless you have the 4-pin TPS, you don't need to adjust anything. The TPS is simply a potentiometer that is hooked up to the throttle plate. As the throttle is opened, resistance is changed. That information is sent back to the ECU to know what position the throttle is in. The reason I say it's not necessary to adjust the TPS is that the ECU will take a reading of the TPS's resistance at startup. It then uses that as it's "throttle closed" benchmark. If you adjust the TPS while the car is running, you can make the idle go up and down. If you leave the TPS adjusted so the idle is high, turn off the car and turn the car back on, the idle will return to normal. However if you adjust the TPS too far, its readings will be outside the set limits in the ECU, and the ECU will throw a CEL. On the 4-pin TPS's they had the idle switch in the TPS as well. The newer cars have a separate idle switch. So on the 4-pin TPS's you would adjust the TPS based on the idle switch to make sure it's readings are correct. here's the test procedure. Last scan tells you how to adjust the TPS via the idle switch http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...S_testing1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...S_testing2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...S_testing3.jpg

02 outback, 2.5L. And these are the pins I am checking. So either the diagram is wrong or the voltage is not listed as correct. Does anyone have a different diagram for the pins?

OK, I install it as per Subaru, And adjusted my TPS and the idle surge is gone. So TPS is messed up. I have a couple I pulled from the bone yard that looked like they were never messed with (Still had the white paint on top screw) My problem is that according to Mitchel On Demand, the voltage at ECM B136 connector terminals 15 and 17 must be between 0.45 and 0.55 when fully closed. This has to be a misprint, i have between 4.5 and 5.0 when fully closed. When the throttle is opened it drops as expected. I am connecting it to the correct terminals according to the diagram. Does anyone know what the correct voltage should be when closed?? Or a link to the adjustment procedure.

It is sitting flat in either direction, i am positive of that. And no it is not the throttle cable. The old sensor was not cracked and i had no codes. I found it funny that when mounted one way it surges and idles fine the other but goes very high when hot. I thought maybe it was bad for this reason i got a new one from Rockauto, it didn't break the bank at 80 bucks. There are no codes thrown and when i unpluged the old one it threw a code and ran like a piece of crap... I am still thinking vacum as well, just looking for some thoughts on the subject. Also I am going to check my TPS today to see if it is on the mark. Thanks for the ideas so far. I will post my results on that test later today. Also I need new battery terminals so I am going to try the "Idle re-learn procedure " I have seen in this and other forums. It can't hurt..lol:drunk:

I just replaced my knock sensor with a new one, i thought the old one was bad but i still have the same issue. My problem is when the knock sensor is installed in the correct position “positioned at a 45 Deg angle relative to the Engine” the idle surges from normal around 750 rpm to 1300 rpm or so. It’s cyclical and does not go away. When I rotate the knock sensor so the plug is facing the driver’s side fender it idles perfectly, until it gets hot. After driving it for a while the idle gets very high and is very slow to drop. It goes as high as 2500 to 3000 rpm. It does not do this when installed in correct position. But surges when it is in that spot. I am running out of ideas and am thinking I cannot be the only person who has had this happen. Why does the knock sensor have to be oriented in the certain direct as indicated by Subaru? It obviously does something in my case. I have read where people break the bolt and mount it in another location without ill effects, so why is mine so particular about which way it points?? If anyone has any ideas please feel free, I appreciate any help I can get.

My engine has 107,000 on it but was well kept. I love it. So far i have around 800 miles on it without an issue. As far as the head gaskets read the article here http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/ " The second group is the 2nd generation Subaru 2.2l and 2.5l engines found in the Forrester from mid year 1998, Impreza from mid year 1998, the Outback and Legacy from 2000.The early symptoms that occur in the 2nd generation engines is usually an external oil leak at both head gaskets and an external coolant leak at the left side head gasket, we have seen coolant leaks at the right side head gasket as well but at a much lower failure rate than the left side. We have seen some of the same intermittent overheating symptoms, but the bulk of the issues seem to be external leaks. Early detection of failing head gaskets is the key to keeping the repair costs down. Typically speaking when the problem is diagnosed and repaired at the earliest signs of failure the potential for additional damage can be held to a minimum."" So if you keep an eye on it and catch it early, your repair will be minimal. FelPro have a modified MLS gasket available, I used it on my 2.5 and it worked great. Also I understand from reading various articles that Subaru also fixed the gasket issue. So If it is caught early and replaced with a modified gasket you should not have any more issues with it from that point on.

As for power difference there is a small change but not worth being worried about. Hardy noticeable. Today I put 180 miles on it and by Friday I should have around 500 to 600 miles on it. Runs like a champ. I would recommend doing this swap if you can get a good 2.2L. Time will tell but no check engine light or issues. I do have an idle issue but that is from the throttle body / TPS / IACV. Still working on that one. That’s why I wanted to try the intake. And also as johnceggleston suggested if you have the motor on a motor stand or something to hold it steady then just change everthing while it's out. And don't forget the Y-Pipe...

I used my flywheel clutch, pressure plate and starter from the 2.5 bolts right up. As for the work with the motor in or out of the car it really didn't matter. Intake is very easy to remove and install. Also with the motor out i would not have the ability to remove the main bolt on the crank. I do not have a motor stand. So again this is easy with the motor in. No different than changing the timing belt except you are swapping 2 pulleys while you are there. I had mixed answers about the pulleys in the past so it was worth a try. And yes it is the DRIVERS side pulley that must be changed. And crank pulley. As for the timing belt I went with one from a "00" 2.2L. It's funny that there is actually 2 different PN's for this item. If you go to Autozone and look it up for both years they are identical but yet have 2 different numbers. Not just autozone it's everywhere. Rockauto does have 1 brand that keeps the same PN for both vehicles / motors.

OK, 2.2L from "00" impreza Y-pipe from an imprezza of unknown year, but it was a phase 1 2.2L My original intake from my 02 outback My crank and drivers side cam sprockets (new timing belt while i am there) Got it all together today and it purrs like a kitten. I am impressed... I only took it for a quick test drive but it runs so smooth. Much better engine. Attached pic is of the exhaust..

sprockets are definitely different , tomorrow timing belt and oil seal. and my original sprockets and I think that should do it..